Rehschnitzel mit Pilzen

 

I think game cooking is about the best of all of Germany's cooking; I have eaten venison as good only in Austria, and never in France or Sweden. German venison come from either Hirsch, a big stag, or Reh, a smaller deer. This meat is all vension, of course, but each type is treated differently. First-class cooks never marinate the tender Reh, while Hirsch is invariably marinated, without trimming or lading beforehand, to tenderize the meat of this enormous, muscular animal. Vinegar, especially a sharp vinegar, is not desirable as a marinade, for it kills the venison's flavour. the ideal short-term marinade, for periods up to two days, is sour cream; red wine is suitable for longer marinating times. The difference in the tenderness of the two meats is reflected in their relative roasting times. Hirsch requires 20 to 30 minutes per pound; Reh, only 10 to 15 minutes.   At the Haus Maternus I enjoyed sautéed medallians of Reh gently bathed in a cream sauce and distinctively flavoured with juniper berries, the best of all spices for venison. With it came Pfifferlinge, the wild mushrooms that the french call chanterelles, whose flavour embodies all the sweet wildness of a summer forest....

 

Venison Cutlets with Mushrooms

 

To serve 6:

 

10 whole juniper berries

5 whole black peppercorns

1 small bay leaf, crumbled

1/2 teaspoon salt

6 six-ounce venison cutlest, preferably from the leg, cut 1/2-inch thick and pounded slightly

1/2 cup plus 1 tablespoon flour

4 tablespoons butter

1 cup thinly-sliced mushrooms

3/4 cup light cream

 

With a mortar and pestle, pulverize the juniper berries, peppercorns, crumbled bay leaf and salt together.  Then firmly press the mixture with your fingertips into both sides of the venison cutlets.  Dip the cutlets in 1/2 cup of the flour and shake off any excess.  In a heavy 12-inch skillet, melt the butter over moderate heat.  When the foam subsides, add the cutlets (in two batches if they crowd the pan), and cook them for 2 or 3 minutes on each side, regulating the heat so they color evenly without burning.  Don't overcook; when done, the cutlets should be slightly pink inside.  Place the cutlets side by side on a heated platter and cover with foil to keep warm while you prepare the sauce.

 

Add the sliced mushrooms to the fat remaining in the skillet and cook them over moderate heat, stirring frequently, for 3 or 4 minutes.  Then stir in 1 tablespoon of flour and cook, stirring constantly for a minute or two.  Add the cream and cook, stirring until the sauce thickens slightly.  Taste for seasoning.  Pour the sauce over the cutlets and serve.

 

Note: In Germany, the venison cutlets are sauteed in butter alone.  To aviod the danger of burning the butter, you may use 3 tablespoons of butter combined with 1 tablespoon of vegetable oil.