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Making Maddie's Pork Chops

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    Posted: 27 February 2012 at 22:45

Making Maddie's Pork Chops

Here's my interpretation of an outstanding dish that was developed by Daikon in honour of his niece. That little factoid alone makes it perfect for this forum, since we are very much all about preserving and sharing family food history here; however, the story doesn't end there. The fact that it is even here on this forum is a fortuitous thing; and its story is one of the reasons why I love the internet, and discussion forums in particular. I always find it amazing how, when free and open discussion is encouraged, the most interesting tangents come up in a topic, tangents that can take on a life of their own, grow legs and really run to the goal line. Check this out....

Not long ago, we were discussing an interesting-looking recipe that a member of another forum developed for apple-cinnamon sausage links:

http://foodsoftheworld.activeboards.net/forum_posts.asp?TID=1640&title=apple-cinnamon-breakfast-links

One of the listed components was "apple cider molasses," which is essentially apple cider that has been simmered and reduced to a thick, caramelised, molasses-like consistency. It is an impressive-looking recipe, and I'm eager to try it; I even boiled down a gallon of apple cider to a pint of "molasses" in anticipation of my attempt, but I am getting off-topic here....

The thing is that this particular discussion came up at a time when we had just recently been discussing how finicky kids can be when it comes to eating the meals that are prepared for them:

http://foodsoftheworld.activeboards.net/forum_posts.asp?TID=1474&title=weeknights-at-the-tasunkawitko-house

As any adult (with children in his/her life) knows, it can be sometimes be a true challenge to get kids to eat some of their meals, and it is often frustrating.

As it happened, Daikon came across both these topics, and offered his thoughts on them, which you can read by following the links above, if you want to. The important thing is that the two conversations converged on a single point: a pork chop dish that Daikon developed, much beloved by his niece, named Maddie, to the point where they became known in the family as "Maddie's Pork Chops."

Reading his description of this dish, I was immediately interested, and requested a few more details about it. Daikon graciously accomodated and shared a detailed description, complete with a shopping list and method for Maddie's Pork Chops:

http://foodsoftheworld.activeboards.net/forum_posts.asp?TID=1644&title=maddies-pork-chops

At the first opportunity, I took this outline and ran with it - let's see how I did!

For the convenience of the reader, here is the ingredients list, as given by Daikon:

Quote Trimmed pork chops of some sort (ideally thick-cut, but you can accommodate cheap, thin ones with skill
Orange juice (enough to come about halfway up the side of the chops when they are in the skillet)
Rosemary (lots -- at least the equivalent of a 1-1/2" sprig per chop, and more for garnish)
Minced garlic (I don't know how much.  How much do you like?  The recipe can tolerate quite a bit.)
Thyme
Dry white wine
Olive oil
Butter
*Not on the list but mentioned later are shallots, salt and pepper

Armed with these ingredients and a brief - but detailed - description, I got to work.

Unfortunately, I had one of my famous camera SNAFUs during this project: Somehow, my camera setting were altered to take pictures at 640x480 pixels, rather than my usual resolution, which is large enough to allow for editing, rotating, cropping etc. before re-sizing down to 800x600 pixels. Because of this, some of the resulting pictures are slightly fuzzy or pixelated, but all things considered, they turned out very well over-all. Here we go....

As always, we begin with "the goods:"

We are talking about some really easy ingredients here!

A couple of notes: In the photo above, I included dried rosemary, along with fresh, in case it turned out that I would need more than I had; as it turned out, I had just enough though, so no worries. Also, next to the rosemary, the ziplock bag of herbs you see is summer savory, which is similar to thyme, but milder, in deference to The Beautiful Mrs. Tas, who is not fond of thyme. Finally, the two oranges shown above were used for garnish. For the wine, I used a chardonnay that, while not fancy, has worked well for me with many other cooking projects. As for the pork chops themselves, I didn't measure them, but they were slightly thinner than ideal for this dish; I believe they were 3/4 of an inch, but can't swear to it. An inch or more would have been better, but these were just fine.

This is a very humble dish, if one were to simply look at the ingredients; however, the whole is worth so much more than the sum of its parts; all that is needed is a little time and effort. Anticipating a great result, I began my prep work by crushing and mincing the garlic:

I used four cloves that were on the large side, and this seemed about right.

When the garlic was taken care of, I stripped all but two of the rosemary sprigs and gave the leaves a rough chop to release their magic:

Mrs. Tas is a bit suspicious of rosemary, finding it too similar to pine needles for her to really enjoy; because of this, I was a bit nervous about using this wonderful herb, but as I will show later, I was able to mitigate any damage that the stiff texture might cause to her evaluation of the dish.

Next, I peeled and finely-chopped the shallots:

I love shallots, but rarely have the opportunity to use them. At first, I was going to use all four of the shallots I had for this, but after I chopped two, it looked like just the right amount, so I went with two.

This was essentially all the prep work necessary, So I heated a couple tablespoons each of butter and olive oil:

While the fat heated up, I patted the chops dry, then lightly salted and peppered them, then tossed them onto the hot cast iron to develop a sear:

After a few short minutes, I flipped the chops over and saw to my dismay that, even though they were developing a beautiful sear, they were also curling up a bit:

So I placed my newly-acquired cast-iron trivet (from Lodge Manufacturing) on top of them to act as a weight:

This trivet is advertised as quite the versatile little unit; aside from keeping meats flat while cooking, one can also use it as a panini press, to keep roasts out of the liquids in the bottom of a pan or Dutch oven, for pitting olives, or for any number of uses - or even for its intended purpose, which is to set hot cast-iron cookware on!

As you can see here, the trivet did its job quite well, and when I pulled the chops off the heat, I had a nice sear:

If I would have thought to use it at the beginning, the crust would have been more even and the chops wouldn't have been curled, but no worries; we're well on our way to some real goodness here!

After removing the chops, I poured off most of the excess fat, then de-glazed with about a cup-and-a half of the chardonnay, scraping the bits and fond from the bottom of the pan. I also reduced the heat a little and added the garlic (left) and shallots:

I continued stirring and scraping, reducing au sec until the liquid in the pan had begun to carmelise and was nearly dry:

I then added the rosemary:

Now came the time to really find out what I could do; I added the pork chops back to the pan, and poured in enough orange juice to come halfway up the sides of the chops:

As you can see, this really produced some beautiful colour combinations; in fact they were so nice, I took another picture:

From this point, I brought the liquids to a boil, then reduced the heat to a gentle simmer and braised the pork chops until I judged them to be done, turning a couple of times to coat with the wonderful, citrussy goodness. I had to guesstimate the cooking time for the chops, and went with about 15 minutes; as it turns out, it was probably a little too long, but not by much. I probably should have covered them during this time, but didn't, as I was trying to keep an eye on them; thankfully, braising is a very forgiving technique.

When the chops seemed done, I removed them once again, and then put the spurs to the liquids in the pan, in order to reduce them down to a wonderful, rich, tangy sauce:

When the liquid had reduced by a little more than half, transforming into a beautiful, carmelised ambrosia, I tested it with a spoon and happily found the sauce clinging to it quite nicely. Rounding the corner for the home stretch, I reduced heat to the lowest setting and added a scant tablespoon's worth of summer savory, then returned the pork chops back to the pan, turning them a couple-three times in order to coat them with toasted-orange deliciousness:

Meanwhile, as the sauce reduced and carmelised just a tiny little bit more, I sliced the oranges as evenly as I could, gave the middle slices a cut and a twist (the only real "fancy" garnish that I know), and put my plates together:

I've "known" Daikon for a few years on another forum, and over that time, I've come to think of him as a bit of a mentor; because of this, I really wanted to put some effort into this and make as nice a presentation as I could, in order to do honour both to him and his niece:

For a side dish, I served garlic-herbed Parmesan mashed potatoes; my "herbs" were actually a healthy shake of Mrs. Dash, but no worries, the potatoes came out very well:

When the plates seemed ready, I turned my attention back to the pork chops and their sauce:

Everything was looking just right, so I scraped the thickened sauce off the sides of the pan, stirred it back into the whole and set about plating:

You may recall my earlier mention of Mrs. Tas's dislike of rosemary leaves in dishes; because of this, I decided to strain the sauce and catch the lion's share of leaves, leaving just a few for their colour and visual effect:

The carmelised orange sauce, which looked wonderful on the pork chops, also made a very effective and tasty topping for the potatoes:

How did the dish taste? One simple word: outstanding! I was completely, 100% blown away by the flavours I created, as well as the easy, yet significant little things that made this such an extraordinary meal. The pork chops, to my chagrin, were slightly over-done, but not by much - the moist heat of the braising kept them tender and flavourful. The few, yet well-balanced, flavours involved in this endeavour all worked together to play on each other and bring out the best in everything, from the sweet/sour/tangy/rich orange reduction, to the savory herbs, to the bit of spice from the black pepper, way back at the beginning of this journey. Everything came together for wonderful flavour, which was enhanced by the stunning (compared to my usual efforts) attention to detail when plating; a feast for the eyes as well as the palate:

My sincere gratitude goes out to Daikon for sharing this small bit of his family story, and I remain impressed with the way things can turn out, even on unexpected paths; were it not for a couple of chance observations on a couple of totally un-related subjects, I might never have known this splendid dish. Bringing this creation to life based on his descriptions was one of the few times that I've felt the way a true chef must feel, and I was inspired by the experience. I hope that, with this post, I've done fair justice to Daikon's dish, and that each and every person reading this is similarly inspired to try Maddie's Pork Chops!

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Daikon Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 February 2012 at 00:31
Nice work!  You pretty much nailed the sauce, and that's the real heart of the dish.  Those weren't really thin chops, but curling can get to be a bit of a problem.  It's less of a problem with thicker and bone-in chops, but you found the right remedy for curling: weight them down with something like a griddle weight or even another skillet.  Another thing you can try is to make several shallow, radial cuts through the outer rim of your chops -- if you understand what I mean.  Then those cuts can open up a little bit when the meat shrinks on the heat, and you can hope that your chop stays flat.

You should be able to use less oil and butter so that you don't end up needing to pour off excess, and you used plenty of wine -- not that there is anything wrong with that, but you really only need about a half to two-thirds as much as you used.  It's all really a matter of taste, though, so you may want to stick with what you liked.

Maybe I'll have to make essentially the same thing sometime this week and show you at least the end product of the-same-but-different.  There's probably not much point in showing the road to the end product again, since you did a really nice job of that, but I can show you another way to assemble the plates....


And also, I'd really be interested in hearing from anyone who takes a look at this and thinks, "Yes, that is very similar to this classic/favorite/traditional recipe...."  I did come up with this a few years ago without reference to much else than what happened to be in the refrigerator one night, but it has always seemed to me to be so simple and so good that somebody else must have come up with pretty much the same thing before -- but I haven't stumbled across anything really close yet....
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hoser Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 February 2012 at 02:44
Outstanding job there Ron...I've been eagerly anticipating the step by step on this recipe...my wife is a pork chop lover so I guess I'm going to have to give this one a try.
Go ahead...play with your food!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TasunkaWitko Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 February 2012 at 07:20
daikon - thanks for the comments - you touch on a few points that i also had in mind (amount of wine, radial cuts etc.) - i'd like to see your version, with plating etc., and think it would be great if a few more members offered up their interpretations. be sure to show this post (and any others that are made) to maddie next time you have the chance, and tell her that the crew at fotw say "hello!"
 
dave - you are going to love these, and mrs. hoser will consider you a kitchen hero if you make them. looking forward to seeing them!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Marissa Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 March 2012 at 10:00
Wow, look great. I'm really liking pork chops (have had 3 different kinds now) so I'd like to explore more. I'll add this to the list!
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guaranteed results, marissa ~ these flavours really work well together!Tongue
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Daikon Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 March 2012 at 23:10
Okay, not the most spectacular plating, but rather something that I could throw together very quickly and easily.  The chop and sauce are done as Ron showed, but I didn't strain the sauce, so here's what you get chunky style.  Sauce doesn't always have to go on top of things (unless you are serving week-old something-or-other in a cafeteria), and often works as well or better as a base element on which to place things.  

As with Ron's plate, there are garlic mashed potatoes here too, but you can't see much of them from this side, since they are serving to prop up the chop, letting us get some verticality and avoid a boring, flat plate.  There's also a lot less of them -- you must get an awful lot of exercise in Montana, Ron, because with the size of the servings you pile on plates us more sedentary sorts would soon be well over 300 lbs.!  

I'm of the firm opinion that garnishes should be edible, even if some choose not to eat them; and that also means that, no matter how pretty it might look, putting a whole Scotch Bonnet pepper on a plate isn't allowed, since very, very few people would agree that eating the whole thing would be a pleasant experience.   Thinking along similar lines, there is a small amount of rosemary garnish -- which I did eat, and which did enhance the experience.  A little quick knife work and I also had orange zest confetti to improve both appearance and flavor.

Finally, I've added a quick salad made from fennel bulb and some orange supremes -- I was going to add some caraway seed to that, but I forgot.

Anyway, for what it is, something a little different than three plops, flat on a plate -- not that that is exactly what you did, Ron, but it is an easy habit to fall into, and something worth avoiding.

Maddies Pork Chop
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote HistoricFoodie Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 March 2012 at 04:56
I agree with everything you say about plating, Daikon, especially portion size. But I don't think we're ever going to make headway against the American penchant for oversized portions.
 
I do have one point, about which I have mixed feelings. We agree that, as much as possible, everything on the plate should be edible. And I'm sure we'd agree that cooking something bone in produces a more flavorfull end result.
 
So now comes the mixed-feeling part: Putting a bone-in chop on the plate.
 
My personal feeling is that it is unsightly, and, of course, violates the "everything edible" rule of thumb. But, on the other hand, there is that flavor issue. And the wonderful satisfaction that comes from chewing the bone.
 
I resolve the issue by waffling. For just the two of us, I don't hesitate to go with bone-in chops. But for guests I go boneless.
 
Your thoughts?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TasunkaWitko Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 March 2012 at 07:07
very nice plate, daikon - i love the fennel/orange salad, which must have been a perfect accompaniment, and the 3-dimensional layout looks great ~ definitely some new ideas there to consider for variety in plating.
 
for myself, i think that the bone-in plating is fine, and have no qualms going either way. the shape of the boned chop, and even the bone itself, can become part of the landscape.
 
great job all-around ~
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Daikon Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 March 2012 at 10:50
It's never even occurred to me to think of including the bone as a fault on a plate.  In fact, something like a frenched bone on a lamb chop is a key element of the dish, as far as I am concerned.  I don't typically do that with pork chops -- and couldn't even if I had wanted to this time, since a sloppy butcher had sawn through the bones, which was a little annoying.  So, no, I've no problems with with keeping the bone, and do tend to use them as an architectural element, as Ron suggests.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Daikon Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 March 2012 at 11:01
the 3-dimensional layout looks great

Working with the vertical dimension typically does improve the appearance of your plates.  That's true whether you're working with something that can easily be made to stand up, but it's also true in a kind of a 2-1/2-D sense when you are working with essentially flat, 2-dimensional components.  In that case, you should be concentrating on overlapping and layering things to give an impression of depth.  You can also add interest by working with asymmetrical and eccentric layouts so that you end up with something approaching my all-time favorite dinnerware, the "casual" service that Frank Lloyd Wright did for the Imperial Hotel in Japan -- which often looks better without the food on it!

 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TasunkaWitko Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 March 2012 at 11:18
i'll definitely see about taking some interest in this and seeing what i can do. i've never been a fan of "stacking" food too high (you see it sometimes where there must be about 5 different layers of things that probably go together but don't seem like they should), but i definitely see the value of doing as you did: a base of sauce, then potatoes (yeah, we've got way too many on mine), which still have contact with their sauce but also allow the pork chop to take on a good angle.

i like that japanese plate design, looks like it would be versatile for many dishes, but for some reason, i bet it really shines with seafood on it ~maybe because the circles remind me of bubbles. if i'm getting the idea correctly,  the plate itself can be the canvas for the dish as well as part of the picture itself. i've tried to do this a little bit with colours or with themes - we've got some plates that are "country chicken," and others that have a kind of beach/nautical theme (such as with the "Sandwiches Cubanos"), and others that are more rustic "cabin in the mountains" with a fly-fishing theme that work great for a lot of dishes, as well.

but i am seriously just a beginner with it and have a lot to learn in order to put it all together. it's all new to me, and i claim no expertise ~ but if i'm reading the concepts correctly, alot of it is about taking the familiar and creatively arranging it to something that is just as logical, but has more eye appeal and a "theme" to it, that draws the person being served closer to the dish, and also closer to the personality of the person who created it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Daikon Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 March 2012 at 11:33
I tend not to worry about semantic themes so much, and prefer to concentrate on more basic graphical and sculptural qualities.  Take a look at any introductory book or website on graphic design and composition and you'll see lots of discussion about layering of elements, figure-ground relationships, use of whitespace, etc. that can readily be applied to plating food.  When it comes to the plates themselves, I'm actually quite a minimalist, preferring plain white or plain black plates, either round or rectilinear (I'm actually not the owner of the blue plate above.)  I'm quite serious when I say that I think Wright's plates often work better without the food.  I think they are a great graphical design, but when it comes to serving food, I'd be happier with a plain white plate in which actual food items play all of the roles of Wright's graphics.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TasunkaWitko Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 March 2012 at 11:55
this is something that might take a little time to get my head wrapped around, but it definitely has my interest. some rambling thoughts here, which may or may not be relevant ~
 
not sure how much this all applies, but my only real experience in art comes from an introductory class in college (art history) and during a year that i spent working for the CM Russell Museum in Great Falls. obviously, charlie russell's art doesn't have much to do with food plating, but there is also quite a bit of work from other artists, as well as other styles such as impressionists etc.. none of this has much directly to do with what we are talking about, but i did learn a lot about colours, positioning, telling a story with the art - and a little bit about visual layers, spacial relations and geographical shapes that might indirectly apply. i didn't learn enough to make me an expert - not even close - but i picked up enough to know i have an interest in those concepts, and hopefully the ability to recognize or appreciate a good thing (even if it's not my cup of tea) when i see it ~
 
hopefully some of these ideas will apply, and i think i'll see what i can learn. your mention of the minimalist approach appeals to me, as my instinct is to keep things real, with maybe a visual reminder or two that is an integral part of it all - for instance, your orange confetti and just a notch of rosemary were a great example - such things didn't occur to me at the time, but seeing them, it makes perfect sense.
 
as i recall, you recommended a book not too long ago that might provide some introductory information. my birthday's coming up, so i will have to see if mrs. tas can order it for me. this entire subject might be worthy of its own topic, but i do like the way a side conversation can take on a life of its own.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Daikon Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 March 2012 at 12:40
What I recommended was that you look at the way great chefs plate their food, and that you take a look at Thomas Keller's Buchon cookbook.  Dealing with traditional French bistro fare (which share's a lot with your interest in more-or-less peasant fare), Buchon the cookbook and Buchon the restaurant share an emphasis on refined preparation and presentation of these dishes.  Keller's recipes can be demanding at times (remember the five-hour caramelizing of the onions for his onion soup...), but I still find both his recipes and his presentation compelling.

Here's another simple graphic design example:



Do you see how breaking up the expected composition makes it less static and more interesting?  Now, the next time you serve a hamburger, don't put the top half of the bun right on top, but put it off center, leaning against the rest of the burger.  Instantly more interesting, and no less "functional", since the diner was immediately going to take the top off anyway in order to add their choice of condiments (which, of course, you've also made available in a pleasant configuration.)  You've also got the advantage that if you've done a properly great job of melting cheese onto a cheeseburger, the diner can now immediately see and appreciate that instead of having it all covered up by a bun.

Simple things built from simple compositional concepts make a real difference.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TasunkaWitko Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 March 2012 at 12:43
good example - you managed to flip on the lightswitch there for me. thanks ~
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Daikon Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 March 2012 at 12:50
For a little more inspiration, here's Keller's version of a basic trout with haricots verts (i.e., french green beans) and almonds:


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TasunkaWitko Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 March 2012 at 12:55
i must say, i never would have thought of that, but it's pretty  interesting. do you have any information on how it was cooked - poached, maybe? is the head attached? the reason i ask is because the eyes don't have that opaque look that comes from cooking with the head on.....
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Daikon Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 March 2012 at 12:59
You're in luck!  While this particular recipe does appear in the Buchon cookbook, it's also available online: http://www.epicurious.com/recipes/food/views/Trout-with-Haricots-Verts-and-Almonds-231344

This technique of finishing the last bit of cooking by piling hot stuff on top and/or basting with hot oil/butter works great for small trout.  Just don't try it with HistoricFoodie's concept of "small"!  And I'm sure that the above photo has been prettified quite a bit for publication, but I do know (because I've done it) that you can come pretty close to this presentation of this dish even in the real world with food that is really going to be eaten.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TasunkaWitko Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 March 2012 at 13:10
From the recipe:
 
Quote Add the trout skin side down and sauté for about 4 minutes on one side only. The fish may still look undercooked at the top of the flesh, but the hot ingredients that will top them will complete the cooking.

 
that makes sense - looks kind of like something one would find in a egyptian tomb. i used to make trout almondine as a "house specialty" at the hotel st. cloud in canon city, colorado. it has many similar ingredients, and was always served with green beans. come to think of it, it was cooked fairly similarly, as well, except on both sides.
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