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Carbonnade à la Flamande |
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TasunkaWitko
Admin Group Joined: 25 January 2010 Location: Chinook, MT Status: Offline Points: 9356 |
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Many thanks to you for offering your thoughts on this, Chris - carbonade flamande has become one of my top 5 favourite dishes to make and enjoy!
Based on the comments and suggestions here from you and Daikon, I was able to give some improvements a try ~ My youngest son was sick yesterday, which necessitated my staying home from work in order to care for him and take him to the doctor. Because of the business of the day, I had planned on simply getting some frozen pizzas for the family for supper; however, I discovered that in our local, small-town grocery they are extremely expensive. As I walked past the meat case, I saw a very beautiful 4-pound rump roast at a really nice price - about half of what all the pizzas were; in fact, the price was so good that I was also able to afford the beer for carbonade, which was the only other ingredient that I didn't already have at home. Normally, I use chuck roast for this dish, and it works very well; however the rump roast, in my opinion, is equally suited for carbonade, with decent marbeling and really good braising properties to bring out its wonderful flavour - in my opinion, it is nearly as good with rump roast as it is with chuck roast. I took the roast home and prepared the carbonade following the same basic recipe as in the opening post, using 5 onions, white balsamic and the other ingredinets as listed. For the beer, I used Shock Top Belgian White, from Anheuser-Busch:
Probably not the most traditional selection out there to use, but it was one I hadn't tried, so I figured why not? Normally, I'll use 1554 from New Belgium, a very good choice which is based on an historic Belgian recipe, or an excellent choice from a local brewery in Belt, Montana called Beltian White; either of these has worked very, very well for carbonade, and are easily my two top choices. The former is darker, deeper and probably more "original," but the latter is very nice as well - in my opinion, they are equally good, in different ways. After trying the carbonade with this Shock Top, I'd have to say that it is also a "dang good" choice. I tried to incorporate some of the suggestions in the preceding posts, such as Daikon's advice to sear the meat in batches. This worked very well, giving a nice, beautiful sear to the meat using my Tramontina, even on a medium temperature setting; however, I do have one question: I noticed when i seared the beef, then set it aside to do the next batch, that the seared meat "bled" out a lot of "juice," filling the bowl that was holding the seared beef. Is this normal and nothing to be concerned with, or should I be searing more moisture out of the meat (which will of course turn into fond in the pan and be returned during the braising process)? Should I toss the juice back into the pan to reduce into fond, or simply add it back to the dish when I return the beef to the pot? I was also able, for the first time, to try two of Chris's suggestions above: the dijon-slathered bread slices - using whole wheat bread - and adding a bit of dark chocolate to the dish. Both additions were very good, contributing very positive depth and flavour to the finished carbonade. The dijon mustard brought the dish into really nice balance with the salt, the sweetness from the onions and the acidity from the white balsamic, and worked very well with the full-on beef flavour. The dark chocolate brought a richness to the foundation of the dish and, I think, contributed to the texture or "mouth-feel" of the carbonade. In both cases, if I wouldn't have been the one adding them, I wouldn't have known what they were, but I could sure tell the difference as compared to previous attempts. These were outstanding suggestions that really improved an already-delicious meal, and I heartily thank Chris for both of them. As noted above, this carbonade turned out very, very well. The braised beef and the carmelised onions gave the dish a rich, dark colour, and the long, slow cooking in the enameled cast-iron Dutch oven reduced the beer and juices down to a really nice, thick stew, which we served over rice. In addition to the impressions I already mentioned, the beef was very tender with delicious, hearty beefy flavour, with bright, spicy highlights from the beer, which worked very well for this. The entire family enjoyed it, and it was easily one of the best carbonades I've ever made....and light-years better than frozen pizza! |
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Daikon
Chef's Apprentice Joined: 20 October 2011 Location: San Francisco Status: Offline Points: 381 |
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Normal. Sometimes you'll get more juice from resting meat, sometimes less. Just add it back to the braising liquid when you return the meat, where it will reduce just fine -- no need to slow down your searing process by reducing the accumulated juices right then.
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AK1
Master Chef Joined: 10 April 2012 Location: Ontario, Canada Status: Offline Points: 1081 |
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I tried this last night with a 4 lb eye of round roast, cut up into 1-1.5" cubes.
I did it pretty much like Chris described. I added the mustard bread & near the end of cooking a tablespoon of dark chocolate chips. I used red wine vinegar as that was all I had around the house at the time. Wow! It was very tasty. I didn't get any pics this time, but I will next time I make it. |
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TasunkaWitko
Admin Group Joined: 25 January 2010 Location: Chinook, MT Status: Offline Points: 9356 |
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Thanks, Daikon!
Darko - that sounds great ~ those final touches that Chris introduced us to are really the jewels of the crown, in my opinion. This recipe can be as basic as one wants it to be - making it a true peasant food - and with a few simple additions it can really be thrown into overdrive. Glad you like it, and that your first preparation was a success - I am sure that it won't be your last! |
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AK1
Master Chef Joined: 10 April 2012 Location: Ontario, Canada Status: Offline Points: 1081 |
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No worries there, this will definitely not be my last time. Soups & Stews are one of my favourite things to make, simply because minor changes in ingredients or techniques make totally different dishes.
For me a soup or a stew is like playing with LEGO.... A few basic building blocks and a few minutes, and you can master the technique. After that, you can spend a lifetime playing with it, and make something different each time.
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TasunkaWitko
Admin Group Joined: 25 January 2010 Location: Chinook, MT Status: Offline Points: 9356 |
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I hope no one minds yet another carbonade post, but it all honesty, I never get tired of this wonderful stew. It has to be hands-down one of the best things in life, and has become a family favourite. Being simple and easy to prepare is only an added bonus to this humble, nutritious, delicious peasant meal.
For this preparation, I tried a couple of different things, and also incorporated a few concepts discussed in our many conversations on this subject. The first was a happy accident; I had wanted to try using some glace de viande that I had made a while ago: http://foodsoftheworld.activeboards.net/glace-de-viande-your-secret-weapon-for-flavour_topic2482.html Unfortunately, I discovered that the kids had used all of it before I could even really give it a try - time to make some more, I guess! Luckily, I had a "Plan B;" some time ago, I received this through a promotion on the company's Facebook page: I had used the beef and chicken varieties before, with very good results, and was expecting wonderful things with the "new" vegetable flavour, which as far as I can tell is not yet available in my area. My primary goal for this preparation, however, was to use a "new" (to me) beer, from Great Northern Brewing in Whitefish, Montana: http://www.greatnorthernbrewing.com/ This wheat beer features a well-known Montana product: I was really looking forward to trying it, hoping that it would add something just a little special to the final product. Anyway, ready to get going, I peeled and cut my onions, then prepared the garlic, summer savory (in place of thyme) and bay leaves for their duties: For the beef, I was delighted to be able to use a magnificent-looking, locally-grown-and-processed roast: Our Montana beef is always a treat to use, thanks to its very good flavour. I cut the roast into large "stew cubes" for braising: And then watched as the batteries in my camera died - with no way to get more. So that's the end of the pictures, but not the end of the story. I prepared the carbonade in my Tramontina enameled cast iron Dutch oven: https://www.walmart.com/ip/Tramontina-6-5-Qt-Enameled-Round-Cast-Iron-Dutch-Oven/29114481 The method used was basically as outlined in the opening post here: http://foodsoftheworld.activeboards.net/carbonade-flamande_topic274.html I also tried incorporating a few concepts and methods that came about as a result of the subsequent conversation, including: a) Searing the beef in batches b) Using white wine vinegar rather than red wine vinegar c) Adding a little Dijon mustard, spread liberally the halves of a stale sourdough roll prepared according to this method: http://foodsoftheworld.activeboards.net/mrs-rivets-famous-sourdough-rolls_topic1178.html d) Finally, I also added a bit of dark chocolate, just as the carbonade was finished. Results were amazing, everything came together very well. The star of the dish - my Montana beef - was fork-tender and mouth-watering, a perfect canvas for the rest of the flavours of the dark, rich, thick stew, which was served over home-made garlic mashed potatoes. I was especially pleased with the use of the vegetable base and the huckleberry beer; each contributed their unique characteristics to the final flavour of the dish without taking over. All-in-all, another carbonade success! My only question to those who haven't tried this easy, delicious stew is, "Why not?" |
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Margi Cintrano
Master Chef Joined: 03 February 2012 Location: Spain Status: Offline Points: 6357 |
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Carbonade Flamande is a lovely autumn and winter dish.
Sorry about your camera´s batteries Tas; none the less, I am sure it was delicious with Montana Beef! To all Other Forum Members: all the dishes look absolutely sensational. Thanks for posting. Kind regards. Margi |
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Volamos a Mediterraneo, un paraiso que conquista su gente u su cocina.
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Ian
Scullery Servant Joined: 16 February 2013 Location: UK Status: Offline Points: 2 |
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Hi there!
This looks like quite an old thread but since I'm new, and since carbonnade a la flamande is one of my favourites, I thought I'd make a contribution. I lived in Belgium for 3 years and ate so much of this stuff, most often with salty french fries. I've experimented with my own recipe, and really recommend using Rodenbach (a very sour red Flemish beer) or Grimbergen (dark and sweet). They tend to be difficult to find (I get them here in the UK from an online specialist) but worth it! And a little pain d'epices will melt into and thicken the sauce and give it a delicious flavour! Here is the recipe I use for pain d'epices: http://girlsguidetoparis.com/archives/french-pain-depices-recipe-paris/#.UR_RmmcnIr0 Ian :) |
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HistoricFoodie
Admin Group Joined: 21 February 2012 Location: Kentucky Status: Offline Points: 4940 |
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Hi, Ian. Thanks for posting the link.
And welcome to Foods of the World. We're a diverse bunch, here, with experience ranging from newbies to professionals, sharing a passion for global cuisines.
Why not stop by the Members Lounge forum, and tell us a little about yourself, particularly your cooking interests.
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TasunkaWitko
Admin Group Joined: 25 January 2010 Location: Chinook, MT Status: Offline Points: 9356 |
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Not long ago, I made this wonderful stew yet again with a new-to-me Belgian-style beer that I found while on a trip to Montana's capital of Helena:
As always, very good results!
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TasunkaWitko
Admin Group Joined: 25 January 2010 Location: Chinook, MT Status: Offline Points: 9356 |
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Thanks to Saveur's online magazine and their "Recipe of the Day," - as well as recent correspondence from Chris - my interest in and love for this dish has been re-kindled.
I have been doing some more reading up on this wonderful stew, and have a couple of "new" recipes to post; actually, they are not new at all, but they are new to the forum. I am not touting any of these as authoritative or even necessarily "authentic," but they do present the dish from a couple of different points of view and might offer some insight or ideas as to the ingredients or preparation. For myself, I intend to follow Chris's notes and advice, and look forward to the results. The first is from Julia Child herself:
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TasunkaWitko
Admin Group Joined: 25 January 2010 Location: Chinook, MT Status: Offline Points: 9356 |
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The second recipe that I am posting comes from the spiral-bound supplement book of recipes that is a companion to Time/Life's Foods of the World volume dealing with Belgian cuisine:
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TasunkaWitko
Admin Group Joined: 25 January 2010 Location: Chinook, MT Status: Offline Points: 9356 |
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Well, I have some very good news ~
As we all know, Photobucket has recently delivered many forums (including ours) a severe blow. Because of this, Chris's beautiful photos of his preparations and methods for Carbonnade were lost. However, with the recent re-kindling of my interest in this wonderful dish, I wrote to Chris and asked if he would be so kind as to re-send them. I am happy and grateful to say that Chris was very willing to share them again, so I have returned those photos to his post. Chris also included another recent version that he prepared, which was made with varkenswang (pig's cheeks) and served on a bed of creamy polenta: If I am able to get any other photos of this most special of meals, I will be sure to post them. If anyone else makes this, please share your experience with us! |
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TasunkaWitko
Admin Group Joined: 25 January 2010 Location: Chinook, MT Status: Offline Points: 9356 |
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Adding to the "collective knowledge" of this dish, here is the recipe provided by Saveur's Online Magazine:
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TasunkaWitko
Admin Group Joined: 25 January 2010 Location: Chinook, MT Status: Offline Points: 9356 |
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Here is a recent preparation of Carbonnade Flamande, from Belgium:
Also, via correspondence and research, here are some notes on Belgian beers to be used for Carbonnade, as well as some important tips and strategies:
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TasunkaWitko
Admin Group Joined: 25 January 2010 Location: Chinook, MT Status: Offline Points: 9356 |
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While doing research for another project, I came across a slightly-different version of this dish in the spiral-bound supplemental recipe book for Time/Life’s Foods of the World - The Cooking of Provincial France (1968). Unfortunately, there were no notes or photos to go with it, but I will add it here to the collective knowledge on the subject.
I will also post it in the "France" forum, since that is where I found this this particular recipe, and because the dish is made there, as well.
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TasunkaWitko
Admin Group Joined: 25 January 2010 Location: Chinook, MT Status: Offline Points: 9356 |
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My Carbonnade journey continues!
This past weekend, I prepared another Carbonnade à la Flamande. This one was easily the best I've yet made, so I will share the story with you. This is most likely the "final" recipe that I will post on the matter; from this point on, I would say that it is all about perfecting the method and technique. It is the result of much research; carefully poring over many posts, websites, email exchanges and social media messages. Most of all, it is thanks to the patient assistance of a good friend in Flanders, and I owe him a debt of gratitude that I cannot repay. This recipe will easily feed 6 to 8 people; cut it in half for smaller households.
I made the Carbonnade exactly as described above, except for the time and temperature in the oven, which I will explain below. Where a range of the amount of ingredients is listed (such as the beef, onions, flour etc.), I went with the higher amount. The resulting Carbonnade was very good, and seemed to be almost perfect; in fact, and was certainly my best preparation so far, but there was still a little room for improvement. Here are some notes based on the day. Here are my beef, onions and garlic, all prepared and ready to go: The lighting in my house seems to be a bit off; the fat of the beef and the onions should be white, rather than yellowish. For the beef, I used a very good chuck roast from the very small herd of Angus/Hereford cross cattle that my parents own, cutting it into largish chunks. Chuck roast, as well as other "tough" (and once-upon-a-time cheap) cuts of beef are perfect for this meal, due to the tenderness and flavour achieved through the long, slow cooking process. To begin, I melted 3 tablespoons of butter in my cast iron Dutch oven, then tossed the onions in to begin their long, slow cook. Throughout the process, I stirred them often as they released their liquid and cooked down, taking care not to let them scorch or burn. It wasn't long before the onions were really smelling good, filling the house with an incredible aroma that promised many good things. Once the onions had cooked down and were starting to get some colour, I added my crushed garlic. I used three good-sized cloves, which turned out to be just right; any more would simply have been too much. Before long, the mild heat from the pot opened up the aroma of the garlic, which blended nicely with the onions; things were starting to get really good, here! Moving along, I reduced the heat to the lowest setting, and heated some oil in my frying pan. Once it was quite hot, I began searing the chunks of beef: You really do want to take your time with this step; sear the beef in small batches, and do not move the chunks while they are in the pan, except to turn and sear another side. Your patience will be rewarded, if you exercise self-discipline: It seemed to me that searing for 5 minutes on the first side, then about 4 minutes on the remaining sides, produced good results. By the time the first batch of beef was seared on all sides, here is what the onions looked like: Once again: weird lighting! The onions weren't quite this "yellow," but they did have some very good colour on them. I added the beef to them, along with a little salt and freshly-ground black pepper, then continued with the next batch of beef chunks. As you continue to sear the batches of beef, you may need to reduce the heat and adjust the times a little bit, in order to prevent scorching as your pan finds its groove. As I seared the beef and added it to the Dutch oven, I continued to grind some pepper over each batch, but only added a little salt every other batch, as the stew will reduce and become concentrated wile it cooks. This process will take as long as it takes, and should not be rushed; after four full batches of beef, plus half of a fifth, I finished searing the beef, and it looked great! I stirred the beef an onions together: Next, I added the flour to the beef and onions, then brought the heat up just a little as I stirred the flour into the mix. the object here is to let the flour cook just a bit, in order to lose its "raw" taste. It is similar to the idea of creating a roux, but you do not take it anywhere near as far as that. Meanwhile, I turned my attention back to the frying pan and added a bottle of beer in order to deglaze the pan. Where the beer is concerned, you want a to choose one that is dark and rich, with relatively low hop bitterness and a bit of sweetness. The best to use is a Belgian trappist or abbey ale known as a dubbel, and there are many labels from which to choose. My friend in Europe had some very specific advice on this:
Some examples of the beer you want to look for include: Ename Dubbel Kapittel Prior Westmalle Dubbel Leffe Dark Sint-Bernardus Abt Sint-Bernardus Prior Kasteelbier Donker Oud Bruin Rodenbach (Red) Petrus (Red) Unfortunately, I had only one bottle of trappist dubbel in the house (Westmalle), and needed two; so earlier that day I had set my mind to finding a substitute. Given the parameters, the "next best thing" would probably be an English porter, but a search throughout my small, one-horse town didn't turn up any of that either. I did, however, find one beer that I figured would be perfect for this; even better, it is brewed in Montana! Moose Drool is an American take on an English brown ale that is brewed at Big Sky Brewing Company in Missoula. In spite of its dubious name, it is a very good beer that meets all of the criteria that I was looking for, with a very good colour, a touch of sweetness and with just enough hop bitterness to balance and compliment the other ingredients. The way things turned out, I couldn't have asked for a better substitute. When the beer hit the hot frying pan, it released the brown bits from the bottom, known as the suc or fond. Using a wooden spatula, I scrapped all of this up and mixed it in with the beer, then poured everything from the frying pan into the Dutch oven. I added the second beer to the pot, then two bottles' worth of beef stock; as a rule of thumb, you want one bottle of beer and one bottle of stock (or water) per kilogram (2.2 pounds) of beef, which will give you just the right amount of braising liquid. As my friend in Belgium told me, "In the older days, people added their beer, filled the beer bottle with water and added it to the stew; simple and easy, so I do that as well." In Belgium, the bottles are 33cl, which is a little less than the standard 12-ounce bottle of beer; however, since I had a little extra beef to braise, I figured that it would all even out. I decided to forego the optional, coarsely-chopped carrot; however, I did add about 1.5 tablespoons of roasted beef base, from Better Than Bouillon. This step is not necessary, when using stock, but it can provide a little boost to the stock, if you desire. The concentrate is a bit more salty than I prefer; however, I like the deep, beefy foundation that it provides, so I took care to be very conservative with my added salt early on. As it turned out, I seem to have achieved a good balance, and was happy with the results. After this, the rest is very easy; I added the fresh thyme, stripped from the sprigs, along with the bay leaves. Next, I added the brown sugar and the red wine vinegar: Another rule of thumb: you want to use 1 tablespoon of brown sugar and the same amount of red or white wine vinegar per kilo of beef. I would have preferred to use white wine vinegar; however, this is a personal preference on my part, and either would certainly give you beautiful balance against the other flavours in the Carbonnade. The addition of vinegar and brown sugar might seem a little strange, but please do trust the recipe, as these ingredients are as essential to Carbonnade à la Flamande as the beef, the onions and the beer. From my friend in Flanders:
We're almost there! All that is left to do is to spread a liberal amount of Dijon-style mustard on the slices of bread: My loaf of "French" bread was on the smallish side, so I used a total of 5 slices of bread; If you use slices from a regular-sized loaf, 2 or 3 slices will most likely be enough. Where the mustard is concerned, I went with a whole-grain "old style" variety from Maille that I really like; this mustard worked very well, but in the future I will probably use something that is more finely ground, as I personally found the seeds in the finished stew to be a distraction. I should stress, however, that this really was a good mustard to use, full of rich, rustic flavour, and it boils down to personal preference. I placed the slices of bread, mustard-side-down, on top of the Carbonnade: I then covered the Dutch oven and placed it into a preheated oven in order to begin its long, slow cook. Regarding time and temperature, I set the oven at 300 degrees for 90 minutes, removing the lid after about 60 minutes; in retrospect, this was a little conservative on my part, as the stew was pretty thin at the end of the allotted time, and the beef wasn't quite fully tender. I brought the Dutch oven to the stove top and continued to simmer off some of the liquid; after half an hour of this, it had started to thicken up pretty well, but was still just a bit thin to my liking. It seemed to me that another half-hour of this would have been perfect, but by this time everyone was pretty impatient to eat, so I went with it. It tasted good; in fact, it tasted absolutely wonderful, but I personally would have preferred it just a bit thicker. With that in mind, I have set the time and temperature of the recipe to that shown above, and will continue to refine this as necessary until it is "dialed in" to perfection. Another option is to simmer the Carbonnade on the stovetop, rather than in the oven; this could allow you to have better control, adjusting the lid to reduce the sauce, as necessary. Unfortunately, most times I try to cook stews and other similar dishes this way, I end up running the risk of scorching the bottom of the pan (and the meal), even on the lowest temperature. Having said that, I will try it in the future, and be sure to monitor the progress of the cooking carefully, in order to hopefully prevent that from happening. If, in spite of all efforts, your sauce comes out really thin, you can scoop all of the meat out of the pot and reduce the sauce over high heat to your desired thickness, taking care to stir often and not allow it to scorch. The notes above underscore an axiom where Carbonnade is concerned: having a well-reduced sauce makes a big difference in the taste. Carbonnade à la Flamande is all about concentrated flavors and balance; nearly every step of the preparation of this dish is focused on that end. In any case, the Carbonnade was very close to ideal, but could have been a bit better where the thickness and consistency were concerned; something to remember for next time. The funny thing is that, when I served the meal to my famished family alongside simple boiled potatoes, there was not a single complaint about the thickness. Even with this small flaw, the flavours of the Carbonnade were exemplary, and everyone - including a couple of finicky souls - enjoyed it very much. In my own judgment, as mentioned above, this was easily the best Carbonnade that I have made to date, with better flavour, better balance and better highlighting of "the star of the dish" than I have ever achieved. I am, of course, referring to the beef, and one simple alteration made a lot of difference. When I was reading through the advice from my friend in Flanders, I noticed that he added a little salt and pepper after the meat was seared, rather than before this step. In the past, I had always added the salt and pepper before, but this time I waited until removing it from the frying pan. The results were unique and delightful, in that the beef seemed to me much more highlighted and on its own, while the salt and pepper seasoned the sauce itself. This of course was helped along by the fact that I was using very nice beef, which the seasoning technique allowed to shine. My goal on this day was to prepare a "quintessential" Carbonnade à la Flamande, where ingredients, technique and taste are concerned, and I came very close. As a result, I fell in love with this Flemish stew all over again, and vowed that it wouldn't be long before my next preparation, especially as autumn moves into winter early here in Montana. I am, however, always looking for room for improvement, so I came up with a few items to keep in mind, next time: The Moose Drool worked out much better than I imagined it would, but next time I will use a proper abbey ale. I will employ ground Dijon mustard, rather than whole-seed. I will use white wine vinegar, in order to compare it to using red wine vinegar. I will manage the cooking time and temperature better, with an eye toward a thicker, more concentrated sauce. The boiled potatoes were very nice, and certainly traditional; but I would really like to try traditional Belgian Patates Frites next time: http://foodsoftheworld.activeboards.net/patates-frites_topic4916.html That's all I have for now, everyone. If you have prepared this before, using the recipes listed above, I'd suggest that you try it as written here, in order to get a good sense of the difference; I truly believe that this preparation was as close as one can get without actually being in a Flemish kitchen. If you've never tried Carbonnade before, then this is a great place to start! As always, questions, comments, thoughts and feedback are most welcome - if anyone else tries this, I'd really like to know how you like it! Ron |
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