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HistoricFoodie
Admin Group Joined: 21 February 2012 Location: Kentucky Status: Offline Points: 4940 |
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Of that group, Ron, I'd start with the stuffed pork. Absolutely delicious. And right up your ally. But they're all good.
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Margi Cintrano
Master Chef Joined: 03 February 2012 Location: Spain Status: Offline Points: 6357 |
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The fish stew ( there are 365 at least ) is lovely. Thanks for posting it .. |
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HistoricFoodie
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Yes, it is, Margi.
I wish I could have included eel---which is a common element in such stews. Unfortunately, eel is hen's teeth around here, so I had to forego it. Alas! |
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HistoricFoodie
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Here are some additional Portuguese main
dishes. As above, I’ve chosen them to
show a diversity of proteins. LULAS
EM VINHO D’ALHOS (Fried
Wine and Garlic Marinated Squid) While I love fried squid, I’m not, usually, a fan of it heavily breaded. And I’ve never before used a three-bowl fry station for them. This is an exception. The squid comes out tender and juicy, with a nice crunch from the breading. For the hot sauce in the marinade I used pimento moida, the ubiquitous crushed hot pepper paste found throughout Portugal. But any hot sauce will do. 1 lb cleaned squid cut crosswise in 1-inch rings ¾
cup white wine ½
cup cilantro or parsley, chopped fine ¼
cup wine vinegar ¼
cup chopped onion 2
garlic cloves, chopped coarsely 1
tsp hot sauce 1
tsp salt or to taste ¼
tsp white pepper or to taste 1-2
cups white flour or as needed 2
eggs, lightly beaten 1-2
cups bread crumbs Corn
or grapeseed oil as needed In a non-reactive bowl, combine the squid, wine, cilantro, vinegar, onion, garlic, hot sauce, salt, and pepper. Cover and marinate the squid for about 30 minutes. Reserving the marinade, strain out the squid in a separate dish. Set up a three-bowl breading station with the flour, eggs, and breadcrumbs. Heat 4-5 inches of oil in a heavy pot over medium-high heat, to 350F. Lightly coat the squid in flour, shaking off the excess. Next, dip the squid into beaten egg, then coat with breadcrumbs. Working in batches, fry the squid no more than 2 minutes. Do not overcook, or they’ll be rubbery. Pour the reserved marinade into a small pot. Reduce slightly over medium heat, about 3 minutes. Serve on the side or drizzle over the fried squid. Serve hot sauce on the side. (Alentejo-Style
Meatballs with White Beans) Even though Portugal is Mediterranean in nature, meatballs are not commonly prepared. This exception, from the Alentejo region, is a bit complex to make, but the results are rewarding. Even people who profess not to like lamb enjoy it. For the sauce: ¼
cup olive oil 1
onion, coarsely chopped (1 cup) 2-3
garlic cloves, finely chopped 1
tsp sweet paprika ½
cup finely chopped cilantro 1
bay leaf ¼
cup white wine 1
½ cups peeled, seeded, chopped tomatoes or 14 oz can tomatoes 2
cups rough-cut Yukon gold potatoes 1
cup water or as needed For the meatballs: 1
lb ground lamb Juice
of ½ lemon (2 tbls) 2
tbls white wine 3
eggs, lightly beaten 2
garlic cloves, finely chopped 1
tsp salt ½
tsp black pepper 4
thick slices stale bread, crusts removed ½
cup milk 1
cup flour Olive
oil as needed For assembly: 2 cups precooked or canned white kidney beans, undrained Salt to taste Make the sauce: In a 4-5 quart pot, warm the olive oil over medium-high heat. Toss in the onion and sauté until lightly golden. Add the garlic, paprika, ¼ cup of the cilantro, and the bay leaf. When garlic is aromatic, pour in the wine. Simmer for 1 minute. Mix in the tomatoes, stir, cover, and simmer over low heat for 10 minutes. Add the potatoes. Pour in enough cold water to barely cover the potatoes. Recover and let simmer over medium low heat until potatoes are nearly fork tender, about 15 minutes. Discard bay leaf. Make the meatballs: In a large bowl, combine the lamb, lemon juice, white wine, eggs, garlic, salt and pepper. Moisten the bread with the milk, squeeze out excess milk. Shred the bread into the lamb. Mix thoroughly. Shape into balls the size of a golf ball, about 1 ½ inches. Roll them in the flour and fry them in the olive oil until brown on all sides. Drain. Assemble: Add the meatballs to the reserved sauce along with the beans and remaining cilantro. Adjust seasoning. Cover and simmer about 25 minutes, until meatballs are thoroughly cooked. (Slow-Cooked Chicken) This dish is traditionally made in a clay pot, which is how I did it. I’m a great fan of cooking in clay, so this was right up my ally. If you don’t have one, don’t sweat it. Any heavy pot---whatever you normally use for braising---will work. Rather than a whole, broken-down chicken, I used thighs, because I happened to have them on hand. Worked like a charm! 4 oz smoked bacon, chopped 5 tbls butter 1
tbls paprika 1
lb small onion, halved 4
garlic cloves, smashed 1
bay leaf ¼ cup chopped cilantro ½
cup parsley, chopped 1
tbls salt or to taste ¼
tsp black pepper 4
lb chicken, left whole or cut in serving pieces ½
lb chourico, cut in 6 pieces 2
cuts white wine 2
tbls tawny port Heat the bacon in a heavy-bottomed pot or clay casserole over medium heat. As it starts to sweat and release its fat, mix in the butter, paprika and halved onions, and sauté the onions until lightly golden, about 5 minutes. Toss in the garlic, bay leaf, cilantro, ¼ cup parsley, salt and pepper. Add the chicken and sausage pieces, give everything a turn to coat, and let the chicken brown a bit to give is some color, 5-10 minutes. Pour the white wine over, stir and cover tightly. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat to low, and simmer slowly with an occasional stir. After 30 minutes, place the cover slightly ajar and continue to slowly simmer until the meat is just about falling off the bone. Add the port wine, stir to blend and simmer for 1 minute. Discard the bay leaf. Serve with the remaining ¼ cup parsley over the top and roasted potatoes and green beans on the side. (Roast Pork Ribs with Polenta) Milhos, popular throughout the country, is merely the Portuguese version of polenta. Note the cooking time, which concerned me, at first, because it seems rather short. But it worked!
A note about the size of the ribs, which is ambiguous in the recipe. It
actually refers to the width of the ribs. This makes sense if you’re using baby
backs. Otherwise, the only way to do it is to waste a lot of the meat. I used St. Louis style (often marketed simply as “back ribs”) and it worked just fine. If you want, cutting each rib in half, or even thirds, is a viable approach as well. 2 ½-3 lbs pork ribs cut in ¾-inch pieces 3 garlic cloves, chopped 4 cups olive oil 2
bay leaves Salt
to taste For the milhos: ¼
cup olive oil 1
onion, finely chopped 2
tomatoes, peeled & cut in 8ths 4+
cups chicken stock or water 2
¼ cups coarse cornmeal r Preheat the oven to 275f. Place the meat on a baking tray or in a shallow, oven-proof dish about 2” deep. Sprinkle with salt, add the garlic and bay leaves, then pour over the olive oil, and bake about 2 hours. Towards the end of the baking time, prepare the milhos. Heat the oil in a large pan. Add the onion and cook over a low heat, stirring occasionally, 10 minutes, until the onion is softened and translucent. Add the tomatoes and cook for a few more minutes. Add a generous 2 cups of the stock or water and bring to a boil. Sprinkle in the cornmeal, whisking constantly. As the mixture starts to thicken, add the remaining stock. Season to taste with salt. Simmer for about 3 minutes until creamy. Remove the meat from the pan, place on a dish and serve immediately, handing out the milhos separately at the table. |
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But we hae meat and we can eat
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Margi Cintrano
Master Chef Joined: 03 February 2012 Location: Spain Status: Offline Points: 6357 |
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Eel is scrumptuous .. Unfortunately the Price tag is quite prohibitive and most of it ( wild and fresh) is sold to Japanese Restaurants at a Price of course !!! So, squid shall do !! Shall give this a definite on list. Need to go check what my fish monger has fresh & wild .. Some rock fish from Cádiz should be lovely too .. Pairs well with squid .. or jumbo prawns !!! I use Ecological Chick Pea Flour from Cádiz, which is un-porous and does not permit the oil to enter the product and GREAT RESULTS !!! Tender interiors and Crispy melt in mouth exteriors and alot healthier than the White flour. How do you prepare your hot sauce ???????????????????? Take care, truly lovely récipe !!!
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Volamos a Mediterraneo, un paraiso que conquista su gente u su cocina.
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HistoricFoodie
Admin Group Joined: 21 February 2012 Location: Kentucky Status: Offline Points: 4940 |
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Although I have a recipe for it, Margi, I actually just buy it in jars. If you want, I'll dig out the recipe and post it.
I'd pay the price for eel, if I could get it at all. Which, other than canned, I can't. When fried correctly, food does not absorb oil. Doesn't matter what "breading" you use, or even if you add the item naked. The secret is getting the oil hot enough. 350F is the accepted lowest temperature. Personally, I work a little higher, especially with things like squid, so I can keep them from overcooking. I shoot for no more than 90 seconds.
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But we hae meat and we can eat
And sae the Lord be thanket |
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Margi Cintrano
Master Chef Joined: 03 February 2012 Location: Spain Status: Offline Points: 6357 |
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Like Portuguese fish stews of all types. Surely very common all over the long Atlantic Coastline of Portugal and especially in Lisbon and the north, where winters are cold and wet. Copied this one too .. Thank you for posting.
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Volamos a Mediterraneo, un paraiso que conquista su gente u su cocina.
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Margi Cintrano
Master Chef Joined: 03 February 2012 Location: Spain Status: Offline Points: 6357 |
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Thank you for the heating of oil tip .. Good advice. Yes, do please post the eel récipe if you can fine it .. I have a Portuguese cook book of their regional dishes, if I can find it in the Antique Trunk !!! It is in Spanish actually !! I should post up a couple of the ones that you have not that could be of interest. It has excellent historical background notes !! Have a lovely day.
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Volamos a Mediterraneo, un paraiso que conquista su gente u su cocina.
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HistoricFoodie
Admin Group Joined: 21 February 2012 Location: Kentucky Status: Offline Points: 4940 |
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Sure thing, Margi. Post away. The more input on one of these explorations the better.
Meanwhile, I'll dig up the chili paste recipe and type it up.
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But we hae meat and we can eat
And sae the Lord be thanket |
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Margi Cintrano
Master Chef Joined: 03 February 2012 Location: Spain Status: Offline Points: 6357 |
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Yes, please see if you can locate the Eel récipe .. Thanks !!
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Volamos a Mediterraneo, un paraiso que conquista su gente u su cocina.
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Margi Cintrano
Master Chef Joined: 03 February 2012 Location: Spain Status: Offline Points: 6357 |
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Thanks for the chili salsa récipe !! This would be wonderful ..
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Volamos a Mediterraneo, un paraiso que conquista su gente u su cocina.
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HistoricFoodie
Admin Group Joined: 21 February 2012 Location: Kentucky Status: Offline Points: 4940 |
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re: eel. It's not a specific recipe, Margi. Just a possible part of the stew.
One trick when using multiple species is to layer the toughest fish first, and finish with the most delicate at the top. So, if I had eel to include, I would use it as the first layer, then build from there.
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But we hae meat and we can eat
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HistoricFoodie
Admin Group Joined: 21 February 2012 Location: Kentucky Status: Offline Points: 4940 |
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At Margi’s request, here is the procedure for making pimento moidas (hot chili paste). As you can see, it’s a time-consuming and
complex process, which is why I buy mine ready made in jars. For starters, you have to make salted peppers. I would start with only a pound or two of
chilies, to see how it works out for you. Later on you can make large batches
if you desire. It might be a good idea to wear rubber cloves and
eye protection when working with these chilies. And, when grinding them, a face
mask would not be out of order. Traditionally, a hand-grinder was used.
Nowadays, a food processor, using the pulse mode, is more common. Hot,
red finger peppers, 6-8 inches long Coarse
sea salt Wash the peppers well. Divide in half, lengthwise, and remove all the seeds. Layer them in a container, covering each layer generously with salt. Cover and set aside in a cool, dark place for 2-3 weeks. If some of the peppers seem to darken, don’t worry about it. The salt preserves them. When the peppers are ready, grind them to the desired consistency. Transfer the peppers and their juices to canning jars, filled almost to the top. Pour a layer of olive oil over them, to fill the jars. Put on the caps, and store in a cool, dark place. |
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But we hae meat and we can eat
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Hoser
Admin Group Joined: 06 February 2010 Location: Cumberland, RI Status: Offline Points: 3454 |
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Am enlightening read on the price of eels:
$1,300 per pound last year!
And yet if I go to the bait shop in Quonachontaug, I can get them for 8.99 per pound....different species perhaps?
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Go ahead...play with your food!
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Margi Cintrano
Master Chef Joined: 03 February 2012 Location: Spain Status: Offline Points: 6357 |
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In the Mediterranean, Spain, Southern France & Italy, there are several types of Eel: 1) Common Eel - Anguilla - Family Anguillidae. This eel is predominately found in Commacchio, Italy, The Albufera of Valencia and Portugal. 2) Elver Eel - Angula - This variety is found in The Basque Country and it is served with tiny Chili Peppers, known as Esplette, a lovely red chili pepper. 3) The Conger Eel - Family Congridae. This species is common in Galicia, in northwestern Spain. It is called Congrio or Congro in Galician and is quite large and found in rocky crevices and ship wrecks. 4) Moray Eel: The Muraenidae Family. This variety is found in Senegal and Italy. It has a snake appearance and The Ancient Romans considered it a delicacy and dates back 2,000 years. It is called Morena in Spanish and Moreira in Portuguese. Muraena Helena in Latin. |
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Volamos a Mediterraneo, un paraiso que conquista su gente u su cocina.
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Margi Cintrano
Master Chef Joined: 03 February 2012 Location: Spain Status: Offline Points: 6357 |
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Hoser, That is a pretty hefty Price tag in Japan. I believe that has to possibly be due to importing, and also the price the Japanese pay their distributors and so they serve it in their best restaurants and charge an arm and a leg .. I am not sure if eel is commonly found in Japan but quite possible as they have alot of islands. |
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Volamos a Mediterraneo, un paraiso que conquista su gente u su cocina.
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HistoricFoodie
Admin Group Joined: 21 February 2012 Location: Kentucky Status: Offline Points: 4940 |
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Dave, keep in mind those are baby eels---which is a different, highly specialized market. Those things are really small, often looking like short lengths of string, and are eaten whole.
Margi, I don't think elvers are a separate species. The word "elver" normally applies to young eels, which would include those baby eels. I have no idea when one of them stops being an elver and becomes just an eel. It's sort of like the difference between lamb and mutton.
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But we hae meat and we can eat
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HistoricFoodie
Admin Group Joined: 21 February 2012 Location: Kentucky Status: Offline Points: 4940 |
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Here
are a few more main dishes, to show the diversity of Portuguese ingredients and
techniques: (Salt
Cod Pancakes) With minor variations, this batter-fried fish dish found all over Portugal. The word “pancake” in the title presumably comes from the pancake batter-like consistency of the breading. Frankly, this is the only Portuguese dish
we’ve tried that we weren’t 100% happy with. Despite soaking for two days, the
fish remained particularly salty. But
that might have been the package we used? Pataniscas de Bacalhau is typically served with juicy cabbage rice, which we’ll examine when we look at vegetables and sides. 1 lb soaked salt cod 1
tbls lemon juice 2
cups milk 1
egg 4
tsp olive oil 1
cup all-purpose flour 1
small onion, chopped 1 small bunch parsley, chopped Oil for deep frying Cut fish into serving sized portions. Mix together 1 ¼ cups milk and the lemon juice and pour over the fish. Let marinate 30 minutes. Beat the egg with the olive oil in a bowl. Stir in the flour, onion, parsley and enough remaining milk to make a medium-thick paste. Heat the oil to 350F. Remove the fish from the marinade and pass them through the paste to coat. Add the hot oil and deep-fry 5-7 minutes until golden brown. Drain and serve. (Portuguese
Style Boiled Meat and Veggies) The Portuguese version of a New England boiled dinner, this popular dish includes several types of meat and sausages, as well as veggies. Soaked chickpeas are often included as well. If you go that route, add them with the meat because they take a while to cook. Morcela is a Portuguese blood sausage. If you can’t find it, just leave it out. 1
lb stewing beef 1
lb chicken 12
oz spare ribs 4-5
oz morcela 5
oz chourico 2
flour sausages, or sub 4-5 oz smoked bacon, diced 1
pig’s ear (optional) 1
cabbage 8
medium carrots 8
medium potatoes 4
medium turnips 10
oz rice Salt
to taste In a very roomy saucepan, cook the meat in enough water to cover and add a little salt. Skim as needed. Cook until meat is tender. Set meat aside and cook all the vegetables at the same time in the same water. Cut them in big chunks and boil until tender, 25-30 minutes. Remove enough stock from pan (you may have to add more water) to cook the rice. When everything is cooked, return the meat and vegetables to the stock to reheat. While you are doing this, dry the rice in the oven at 375F for 3-5 minutes. Adjust seasoning as needed. To serve, make a mound of rice in a dish and surround with the sausages, cut in thick slices. Put the meat and vegetables in a tureen with a little of the stock to keep them moist. Serve at once. (Portuguese
Braised Pork with Garlic and Onion Sauce) Easy enough to make for a family meal, I wouldn’t hesitate to serve this dish at a sit-down dinner party. It puts me in mind of an up-scale version of Southern Smothered Pork. 3
lb center-cut pork loin 1
tbls salt ½
tsp white pepper 2
garlic cloves, smashed 2
tbls butter 1
bay leaf 3 cups milk, as needed 1 recipe onion sauce: 2 tbls butter 1
med onion, sliced 2
tbls cornstarch 2
tbls water ½
tsp nutmeg Preheat oven to 350F. Season the roast all over with the salt and pepper. Put the meat in a rectangular roasting pan with the garlic, butter and bay leaf. Pour in enough milk to almost cover the meat about ¾ of the way up the side of the roast. Put
the pan in in the oven. Periodically, as the top of the roast browns, turn the
meat, so that the browned part becomes submerged in milk. Continue doing this,
and, eventually, the whole roast will be caramelized and the flavor will infuse
the milk. Continue to cook until the internal temperature reaches 150F, about 1
½-2 hours. Discard the bay leaf. Transfer roast to a cutting board, cover, and let rest while making the onion sauce. Melt butter in a small skillet over medium-high heat. Add the onion and saute until richly golden, 5-7 minutes. Reduce heat to medium. Measure out and pour the milk from the roasting pan into the onions, adding more milk if needed, to make 2 cups. Make a cornstarch slurry by mixing the cornstarch, nutmeg, and water together, then stir in the milk. Bring the milk to a high simmer and continue stirring until the milk becomes the consistency of heavy cream, about 5 minutes. Slice the pork into serving pieces and transfer to a serving platter. Ladle some of the sauce over, and serve with extra sauce on the side. |
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HistoricFoodie
Admin Group Joined: 21 February 2012 Location: Kentucky Status: Offline Points: 4940 |
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Answering
Margi’s request for the hot chili paste recipe reminded me that there are
numerous condiments and flavoring agents that make Portuguese cookery what it
is. Many of these are regional in nature, and,
even, family to family. For instance, you’ll find pineapple preserves in the
Azores, because pineapples are grown there. Even so, there are several, like
the hot chili paste, that are national in scope. Here are just a few that I found
intriguing: MASSA
DE PIMENTAO (Portuguese
Sweet Pepper Paste) Sweet pepper paste is ubiquitous to Portugal. Just as Turkish housewives throw a tomato into every pot, many Portuguese housewives (and professional cooks) believe a spoonful or three of this condiment improves any dish. Massa de Pimentao, in fact, is often used
to ramp up the flavor of seasonings, rubs, and the like, or as part of other
sauces, as well as being used straight on. We’ll see this later on when we get
into vegetables and side dishes 4 very large red bell peppers, cored, seeded, and quartered 5
lbs kosher salt (do not use table- or canning-salt. They are too fine) ½
cup olive oil You’ll also need a colander with small holes, or a regular colander lined with cheesecloth. Set the colander on the bottom of a large, nonreactive pan with sides at least an inch high. Pour in a ¾-1-inch layer of salt to create a base. Do not move the colander once you’ve set it in place and added the salt. Arrange a layer of peppers on the salt, cut side down, pressing them into the salt. Be sure to cut any curled piece of pepper to straighten it, or mold could grow in the curl. Pour a ½-1-inch layer of salt over the layer of peppers; repeat with the remaining peppers and top with a final layer of salt. Cover with wax paper, then top with a heavy plate or two to weight it down. Put a small item under the pan to tilt is so the pepper juices will run away from the colander. Set the pan aside on your counter for up to 4 days to allow the juices to drain from the peppers and run into the bottom pan. After the third day, the peppers will be thinner, and the amount of water draining will have stopped. Wipe off the excess salt (do not rinse) and place them in the bowl of a food processor. Pulse 15 or 20 seconds to a medium texture, not a smooth puree. A meat grinder can also be used for this. Fill two sterilized half-pint jars with the peppers, leaving about an inch of headspace. Pour in a half-inch layer of olive oil. Place a piece of wax paper over the opening and close the jar tightly. Massa de pimentao will keep at least six months in the fridge. Just be sure to renew the oil level after each use. (Portuguese
Garlic Cream Sauce with Cilantro) Dishes like fishcakes and seafood turnovers are traditionally served without sauces in Portugal. But many households believe they cry out for dipping sauces. My home can be numbered among them. Strictly speaking, this is not a condiment. But I was happy to find it, as it gave me an authentic sauce to use with those dishes. 2 tbls butter 1
tbls flour 3
garlic cloves, bruised 1
cup heavy cream 2
tbls chopped cilantro or parsley 1
½ tsp chili pepper paste 1
tsp lemon juice ¼-1/2
tsp Dijon mustard ¼
tsp ground white pepper ¼
tsp ground cumin (optional) 1
tsp salt Melt the butter in a small saucepan. Whisk in the flour and stir to make a roux. Cook a minute. Add the garlic and cook just until the garlic is really aromatic but not colored, about 30 seconds. Gradually whisk in the cream and then add the cilantro, chili paste, lemon juice, mustard, pepper and cumin. Simmer over medium-low heat for 10 minutes or so, until slightly reduced. Do not allow to boil. Season with salt if needed. Let stand. Remove the garlic cloves before using and serve the sauce warm or at room temperature. (Portuguese
Onion and Port Comfit) This interesting condiment is an ideal accompaniment to cold and smoked meats, and, especially, game. Although I haven’t, as yet, tried it with duck I’m anxious to do so, because it seems to be an ideal match. It takes some time to prepare, but that’s
all cooking-down time. The comfit keeps well in the fridge, or, keep one jar
there and freeze the rest for later use. 10 medium onions, peeled and cut into fine rings 6
tbls olive oil 1
bottle Port Salt
and pepper to taste Use a deep, thick bottomed pot. Place over the heat and, when warm, add the oil. When the oil is hot add the onion rings, turning them several times to coat with the oil, and fry very gently for about two hours, while adding the wine, little by little. Season with salt and pepper and cook until you get a thick, jelly-compote-like dark mixture. Taste and adjust seasoning. Transfer to jars. (Portuguese
Dry Spice Rub Both dry and wet spice rubs are endemic to Portuguese cooking. But, whereas many countries have mixes immediately associated with them---Ras el Hanout comes immediately to mind---there is no “national” mix. Every cook has its own favored combination. This one is typical of the Portuguese approach. BTW, the difference between wet and dry
rubs is that dry rubs can be made ahead of time and stored, wet rubs are always
prepared specifically for immediate use. 4 tsp paprika 3
tsp onion powder 2
tsp dried garlic 1
bay leaf, crumbled 1
tsp ground cumin 1
tsp ground black pepper 1
tsp granulated dried orange peel ½
tsp crushed dried chili pepper. Mix all the ingredients together and store. When needed, take a spoonful or two of to use dry. Note: You can leave out the garlic, then, just before use, crush in one or two garlic cloves, using mortar and pestle. Only do this for a mixture to be used immediately.
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But we hae meat and we can eat
And sae the Lord be thanket |
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TasunkaWitko
Admin Group Joined: 25 January 2010 Location: Chinook, MT Status: Offline Points: 9356 |
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Thanks Brook for two excellent installments. I am seeing many things I'd like to try, and then I recall that I've got several projects in the hopper as it is.
I will get to a few of these, however, as they all look good. I am particularly struck by that dry spice rub, and have all of the ingredients at this moment. I will certainly give that a go, when I can; I can easily see it on poultry or fish, but I'm tempted to try it on pork before anything else. |
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