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Cocina Latina: An Introduction

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    Posted: 29 July 2021 at 22:49

 Regular members know about my fascination with the cuisines of the Near East---the land mass stretching from China and India on the east, to the countries of the eastern Mediterranean, and those bordered by the Red Sea, Arabian Sea, and Indian Ocean. Stretching the point, these are the lands encompassed by the Ottoman and Persian empires; the area Sabrina Ghayour has tagged “Persiana.”

Newer members---and we’ve welcomed quite a few in the past two years or so, can see some of my explorations here (http://www.foodsoftheworld.activeboards.net/persiana_topic5423.html), here (http://www.foodsoftheworld.activeboards.net/ottoman-cuisinean-introduction_topic4606.html), and here (http://www.foodsoftheworld.activeboards.net/a-thread-that-binds-intro-to-sephardic-food_topic4716.html).

I haven’t ceased my culinary explorations of Persiana. But it was time for a change.

I immediately thought Latin America. While, like most Americans, I knew a little (far too little) about Mexican cuisine, the rest of that region was all but unknown.  Exploring it would stretch my knowledge and appreciation of global foods, and provide new flavors to savor.

As I’m still learning, I certainly hope other members of our community will jump in and add to this thread as we go along. 

The thing is, saying “Latin America” is like saying “Europe.” We’re talking about a hemispheric region stretching from the Rio Grande River to Cape Horn, and from the Atlantic to the Pacific oceans; a region that includes more than twenty mainland countries and the three Hispanic islands of the Caribbean.

Obviously, I had to devise a rubric for consolidating these various cuisines. Or at least come up with a tighter focus.

My first idea was to just dip into tastes of the various countries, choosing recipes that appealed.  Trouble with that approach is that, while most Latin American cuisines are similar (they do, after all, use the same ingredients), the diversity of dishes is staggering. 

Next, I thought to choose just one of two countries with similar-enough dishes that they could be thought of as regional differences---just as you’d find in any single-country cuisine. Columbia and Venezuela initially were my choices, because they fit that mold perfectly.

I began my exploration that way, focusing on those two countries.  But then I discovered Copeland Marks’ incredible book, False Tongues and Sunday Bread, which is all about Guatemalan and Mayan cookery.  I was hooked.

So, my final approach is a look at Central American cuisine, focusing on Guatemala, but including other countries of that region, while still dipping into other Latin American countries for no other reason than that the recipes sounded so good. As recipes are provided, I will identify the country of origin. Not always a simple task, as an author might identify a dish as being from the country where he or she first encountered it, but which is generally attributed to a different country. Then, too, is the language issue. Many dishes, virtually the same in all significant respects, bears a different name based on where it is prepared. For example, The Cuban Ropa Vieja is, in Venezuala, known as Pabellon Criollo, where it’s practically the national dish.

In a similar vein, many ingredients change names if they are processed differently. The classic case is the poblano chili, which, when dried, is renamed ancho.

But let’s move on.

Guatemala and the rest of Central America are, too, a microcosm of how all the foodways of Latin America developed.  So, as it turns out, it’s a great laboratory for studying and understanding the whole continent.

There are three major influences on what is now Latin American foodways. First are the pre-contact foods of the indigenous people. The ingredients they used, and the cooking methodologies, continue to this day. How strongly that influence continues has much to do with where the descendants of those people live and work. As we shall see, for geographic and other reasons, their influence is most apparent in Central America.

Second, is the Colonial period, in which European---primarily Iberian---ingredients and cooking techniques were introduced to the various countries, and melded with local ingredients and methods to produce a true fusion.  Most significant differences from this period stem from which Native peoples the colonists came into contact with. In this period, too, came the not inconsiderable African influencies brought by the slaves. 

Finally, there’s the Modern period, in which other European influences affected the cuisine and its development.  Obviously, that influence continues today.

 In Central America, the Spanish explorers and colonists came across the Mayan civilization, the heart of which was in the highlands of what is now Guatemala. This is a rugged region, dotted with remote villages in which traditional dishes are still prepared the same way as they were hundreds of years ago. As one descends from the hills, the Mayan influence becomes less strong. 

So, what we find, is the Mayan influence most strong in those highlands, and all but petering out as we look at other Central American countries, until it’s becomes all but non-existent in the coastal regions.

The Iberians found more than different people in Latin America.  There was a host of new ingredients. Many of them became mainstays of European and North American cookery. Among them: tomatoes, beans, corn, chilies and other peppers, potatoes, various squashes---the list goes on and on. But there are numerous other ingredients that are signposts of Latin cooking that most of us are unfamiliar with. They are becoming more recognizable, however, and virtually all of them are available either on-line or at Latin markets. Quite a few, in fact, can be found in supermarkets. Among them:

-Achiote. If there’s one ingredient the hallmark of Latin cooking, this is it. Achiote is the seed of the annatto plant. It is used whole, in some dishes, but most usually it is powdered or prepared as a paste. Achiote is responsible for the vibrant color of much Latin American food. Depending on quantity used, it colors food from a pale yellow, to gold, to a shocking orange or even red.  A common application is to infuse achiote into oil or lard, and use it that way.

-Cassava. Also known as yuca (not yucca, which is a plant of the American southwest and Mexico), cassava is a basic starch of Latin cooking. It’s a root, and is used similarly to potatoes, and can be prepared any way that potatoes are used.

     Cassava is found in various forms, ranging from the root, itself, to flour, to a powdered starch, similar in appearance (and use) to cornstarch. 

 

-Chayote. Chayote is a pear-shaped squash that appears various ways. Most commonly they have a pale-green skin and whitish flesh. But there are versions that have dark skins, and even some that are covered with dark spines.

     Chayote is used primarily for creating side dishes. But it’s used other ways as well, including in appetizers and desserts.

     The tendency, in Latin America, is to discard the single soft seed found in each squash. In Mexico, however, children love them as snacks. 

 

Mashan (Maxan). These are the leaves of the Palmyra palm, and are often the wrapper of choice for tamales and similar dishes.  Foil is often used as a substitute, because Central American tamales are boiled, rather than steamed as in Mexico, and it’s important to have a water- impervious outer layer.

 

-Mil Tomate. This is the Central- and South-American term for tomatillo. Related to tomatoes, but by no means the same, they bring a tartness and green color to dishes.  The tendency in Mexico and North America is to use larger ones. In Central America they prefer the smaller ones, ranging in size from ping-pong ball to golf-ball in size.

     The mil tomate itself is found inside a lantern-shaped wrapper, which is discarded. And they should always be washed under running water, because they have a sticky coating that can adhere to your hands.

 

-Aranja agria. The juice of the bitter orange (Seville orange). It’s available bottled, but to substitute add 1 tablespoon lime juice to 3 tablespoons regular orange juice as an acceptable substitute.

 

-Pepitoria. An essential in Guatemalan food, squash seeds are roasted, then ground to a powder. Pumpkin seeds, readily available, can be substituted.

     Most authorities recommend using only hulled seeds. Frankly, being as they’re going to be finely ground anyway, I see no reason not to use the whole seed if that’s all that is available.

 

-Plantains. Related to bananas, plantains look similar, but tend to be larger.  They are used in both the green (i.e., unripe) and yellow (ripe) stages. As a plantain ripens it turns from green to yellow, with black streaks. The natural sugars develop as part of this ripening process, so the green ones are used for savory dishes, half-ripe ones where some sweetness is desired, and fully ripe for sweet dishes and desserts. By the time a plantain is fully black it’s past its prime, and is too mushy for most uses.

     Do not try and peel a plantain as you would a banana. That doesn’t work. Instead, cut a small slice from each end. Then score the skin, the length of the plantain. With ripe ones you’ll want to follow one of the black streaks. Green ones have slightly raised lines, and following one of them works best. Once scored, the skin should pop off readily, usually in one piece.

 

 -Rapa dura (Panela). These are brown sugar cakes, usually square but available in other shapes. They are used like any brown sugar, after first being grated.

     Regular dark brown sugar can be substituted. But keep in mind that American brown sugar is made backwards; that is, molasses is added to regular refined sugar to provide color and enhance the sweetness. Even so, it isn’t the same. Muscovado makes a better substitute.

 

To be sure, there are other specialized ingredients, and we’ll discuss them as they’re encountered.

 

As usual, I like to share my references, for those who might be interested. Here are the books I’ve consulted so far, including some that already were on my bookshelves:

 

Gran Cocina Latina; Maricell E. Presilla, W.W. Norton & Co., New York, 2012. This encyclopedic (901 pages) is my basic reference for insights and recipes of Latin America as a whole.  If, for some reason, I could only have one book on the subject, this would be it.

 

False Tongues and Sunday Bread, Copeland Marks, M. Evans, New York & London, 1985. As mentioned above, this is the book that helped me focus on an otherwise overwhelming task.

 

Latin American Street Food, Sandra A. Gutierrez, University of North Carolina Press, Chapel Hill, NC, 2013.

 

The Food and Cooking of Colombia & Venezuela, Patricia McCausland-Gallo, Aquamarine—an imprint of Anness Publishing LTD, Leicestershire, UK, undated.

 

Mexico One Plate At A Time, Rick Bayless, Scribner, New York, 2000.

 

Truly Mexican, Roberto Santibanez, John Wiley & Sons, Hoboken, NJ, 2011.

 

A Taste of Old Cuba, Maria Josefa Lluria de O’Higgins, Harper Collins Publishers, New York, 1994.

 

Memories Of A Cuban Kitchen, Mary Urrutia Randelman and Joan Schwartz, Macmillan Publishing, New York, 1992.

 

International Cuisine, The International Culinary Schools at The Art Institutes, J. Wiley, Hoboken, NJ, 2008.

 

Latin American Cooking, Jonathan Norton Leonard, Time-Life Books, New York, 1968.

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Great write up Brook. I can't wait to read more. Thanks.
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When the Conquistadors and Iberian settlers came to the new world they found all sorts of foodstuffs unknown in Europe.  Of all of them, corn was the most important.  As in New England, they used the indigenous word for it, calling it, with different spellings, “maize.”

 There was a reason for that. In Europe, at the time, all grains were called “corn.”  But here was a new one which, physically, didn’t come close to resembling the wheat, rye, barley, and oats they were used to.

 Corn was more than food to the Native peoples.  It was sacred to their gods, and an important part of religious ceremonies, art, and culture long before the great empires arose.  I've seen pictures, for instance, of a pre-Incan ceremonial bowl representing the corn goddess.  Not only is the bowl formed by forming clay in the shape of corn cobs, the handle, with its goddess effigy, shows her with a bodice of corncobs, and her hair made the same way.

 Corn was, literally, the food of the gods.

 Even now, despite the influx of foreign ingredients, Latin America is, at base, corn-centric. From grilled corn on the cob, to corn disks added to soups and stews, to sweets and deserts, corn is essential to all Latin American cookery. Here are a few recipes just to demonstrate corn’s versatility:

ELOTES LOCOS

(Guat. Crazy Corn)

Throughout most of North America, this is known as Mexican Street Corn, or, simply, Street Corn, with variations found across the region.  Guatemalans call it “Crazy Corn,” because it is so crazy delicious.

12 ears fresh corn, husked and stalks removed                     

12 sturdy wooden skewers                                                    

1 cup Mex. Crema or crème fraiche                                       

1 cup mayonnaise 

2 cup crumbled Cotija cheese*                                                          

Ancho chili powder

 Cook the corn in a large pot of boiling water for 3-4 minutes, remove from the heat, drain, and set aside. When cool enough to handle, insert a skewer in the bottom of each cob.

 Heat a grill until moderately hot.  Grill the corn, turning the cobs often, until they are tender and slightly charred all over, 4-6 minutes. In a large measuring cup, combine the crema and mayonnaise; set aside. Place the cheese in a shallow plate; set aside.

 Wrap the bottom fourth of the cobs plus the skewers in foil so they’re easier to hold. Dip them into the crema mixture, coating them well, then roll in the cheese and top with chili powder.

AJIACO BOGOTANO

(Col. Potato Chicken and Corn Stew)

Here we have an example of how corn is cut into segments and added to soups and stews.

½ cup packed cilantro leaves                                                 

4 green onions

2 lg garlic cloves, left whole                                                  

1 celery stalk, halved

2 ½ lbs whole chicken breasts                                                

1 lg bay leaf          2 tsp salt                                                   

3 qts chicken stock

1 ¼ lbs peeled red potatoes in thick slices

1 lb smaller creamier potatoes (i.e., Yukon Gold), peeled

1 ¼ lb peeled russet potatoes in thick slices

3 ears of corn, cut crosswise into 2-inch slices                      

1 cup cilantro       

2 Hass avocados

½ cup capers        

Mexican crema or sour cream

In a large pot over medium-high heat, place the cilantro, green onions, garlic, celery, bay leaf, chicken breasts, and salt; cover with the broth.  Bring the liquid to a boil, reduce heat to low, and simmer 15 minutes, skimming off any foam and simmer 20 minutes.  Add the remaining pot that rises to the top. Continue simmering, uncovered, an additional 15-20 minutes until chicken is cooked through.  Remove chicken to a platter. When cool enough to handle, shred it into large pieces. Chill until ready to serve.

 Strain the broth over a large bowl and discard all of the solids. Return the broth to the pot and set over medium-high heat. Add the creamier potatoes and bring to a boil; cover, reduce heat, and simmer 20 minutes.  Add remaining potatoes and simmer until fork tender, about 30 minutes. Add the corn and cilantro and cook for about 25 minutes until corn is tender.

Remove 1 cup of the potatoes and mash them until smooth. Return them to the soup and stir. Add the chicken and simmer 5 minutes.

 To serve, peel, pit and slice the avocados. Place a piece of chicken in each bowl, ladle the soup and vegetables on top, and garnish with avocado, capers, and dollops of crema.

 PUDIN DE ELOTE

(CR. Corn Pudding)

Finally, we have corn as a dessert

 6 ears corn            

½ cup milk

1 cup farmers cheese                                                              

½ cup sugar

2 eggs, beaten      

1 tbls melted butter

Scrape the kernels off the corn cobs. This will make about 3 cups. Grind the kernels in a processor. Add the milk and strain the mixture through a metal sieve. To the milk mixture add the cheese, sugar, eggs, and butter. Beat well.

Turn into a buttered baking dish wide enough so the pudding mixture is about 2 inches deep. Bake in a 350F oven for 40 minutes, until lightly browned on top. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Where corn really shows up most, however, is in the breadstuffs of the region.

To be sure, corn is not the only grain used to make breads.  But it is, by far, the most common one. And its use for this purpose dates back hundreds of years to pre-contact days.  The Aztecs, Mayans, and Incas, as well as numerous less-well-known indigenous people, all made bread from corn.

It’s important to understand, however, that the corn meals of Latin America are prepared differently.

In North America, corn meal is a rather simple product.  Field corn is dried and ground, with the only differences being the fineness of the process.  Stone ground meal tends to be finer that that made in a roller mill.  But that’s not always the case. 

I won’t get into the argument about whether stone-ground is better and healthier.  That’s a decision you have to make for yourself.  The quality of stone-ground is considered to be higher, however, because grindstones generate less heat. The heat generated by roller mills can degrade the final product. Or so it’s generally believed. Personally, I believe the jury is still out on that question.  And when you add in the smaller roller mills, such as Weisenberger Mills, which do not generate the kind of heat as the large commercial mills, you open a whole other can of worms.

Be that as it may, Latin American breads rarely use simple ground corn.  Instead, one of two procedures are followed; both of which date back to antiquity, and were made by individual housewives using hand tools like the metate of Mexico.

Ground corn is generally referred to simply as “masa.”  But it’s important to add certain suffixes to be sure which type is being used.

Masa Harina is the most common form found from the American southwest to the Panama Canal. It is made from nixtamalized corn. To make it, dried field corn is cooked in a dilute solution of slaked lime or lye. After standing for several hours, it is rinsed and ground.

This is, in all essentials, the same process used to make hominy in the American south.

The resulting dough is called fresh masa, and is preferred.  Fresh masa itself can be dried and ground. In which case it becomes Masa Harina, which gets reconstituted for use. For the majority of us, Masa Harina is the form most readily available.

Fresh Masa and Masa Harina are the preferred meals for tortillas (and all their spin-offs, such as sopas), tamales, and, sometimes, pupusas.

BTW, when making corn tortillas, a tortilla press can be used.  With a little bit of practice, a press lets you make equally sized and thick tortillas time after time.  I heartily recommend one, as they are inexpensive and beat the heck out of any other method of shaping tortillas.  Unfortunately, they don’t work for making flour tortillas, because the dough has to be stretched to develop the gluten.  A tortilla warmer is also a good idea as it prevents them from drying out.

Once we get to South America, things undergo a major change.  Tortillas---the mainstay of Mexico and most of Central America---run out, and are replaced by arepas.  Although they’re made in several formats, as we’ll see later on, the basic arepas is a bun-like bread, partially split to create a hollow (similar to Pita), and stuffed. 

Both Colombia and Venezuela claim to have originated arepas.  The evidence seems to support the latter. Indeed, one authority claims that Venezuela has 72 different arepas.  I’m guessing that refers  primarily to the fillings, rather than the bread itself.  But the fact is, the dough is often modified with other ingredients. Cheese is very common, for instance.  And there’s one version that adds cooked quinoa to the mix. I haven’t tried that, yet. But it’s said to add a nutty flavor to the bread.

Wherever they originated, arepas, nowadays, are ubiquitous to South- and Central-America, and, in fact, are getting to be more and more popular in North America and Europe, as celebrity chefs tout them.

Arepas, like tortillas, use a specialized cornmeal. In this case, dried corn is first pounded to remove the seed germ and outer hull. The remaining corn is then cooked, dried, and ground into flour. If you were to ask what masarepas is, most people who know it would call it pre-cooked corn meal. 

Arepas are used to make breads as thin as tortillas to, to pancake-sized, to thick, bulky buns.  When “baked”, they produce a bread that is chewy on the outside, soft and puffy on the inside. In addition to arepas in all its forms, masarepas is also used to make corn wrappers for empanadas.

Why the quote marks on “baked?” Because there are three basic techniques for preparing arepas.

No matter which of the three is used, they all start the same way. After shaping the arepas, it is first placed on a hot comel (an iron or clay griddle) to seal the outside.  You can continue cooking them on the comel until done, similar to how many Mid-Eastern flatbreads are made. Alternatively, you can transfer them to an oven, and actually bake them.  Or you can deep fry them, which gives you a crispy crust and soft interior.

Of the three, I prefer actually baking them.  But I advise trying all three methods to see which you like best.

Tortillas and arepas are unique in that they’re the only breads known that are made using previously cooked grains.

We’ll delve deeper into making and using tortillas, arepas, and spin-offs from them, next time.

 

 

 

 

 

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Whoops!

I just realized that I'd left out an important reference:

The Book of Latin American Cooking, Elizabeth Lambert Ortiz, Robert Hale publisher, London, 1984.

What makes it so important? Back in the late 1960 through the early 1980s, America was emerging from its culinary isolationism and discovering a wide world of cuisines and tastes.  Publishers were quick to recognize this, and numerous seminal works were produced; including the Time/Life Foods of the World series---for which Ortiz was the principal consultant.  She'd already published her "Complete Book of Mexican Cooking," and would go on to publish several more Latin-inspired cookbooks.

In short, she introduced the world to Latin American cuisine, in the same manner that Paula Wolfert introduced us to North African cuisine in her "Cous Cous & Other Good Food From Morocco."


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Tortillas---and, to a lesser extent, arepas---are the most versatile breads in the world. The list of dishes that start out as tortillas is lengthy. They are fried, baked, stuffed, stewed…..the list goes on and on. But they all start with the tortilla.

 

As noted, wheat tortillas are popular in northern Mexico and North America.  But once you get into southern Mexico and Central America, they are all but unknown. So, keep in mind, when I say “tortilla” I’m talking about corn.

 

Anyone who has traveled in Mexico or the American Southwest has seen Hispanic housewives making tortillas completely by hand. They start with a lump of dough, which gets patted and shaped in their palms.  When they’re finished, they have a pile of tortillas all the same size and thickness.  Very impressive!  Most of us do better by using a press.

 

Tortilla presses were an innovation of the Spanish conquerors, who wanted a more efficient way of making them.  Those original presses were made of wood. While wood presses are still in everyday use in the back-country of Latin America, wood presses, nowadays, showcase the woodworker’s art. So wooden tortilla presses tend to be difficult to find, and are very expensive. Instead, there’s a range of “modern” materials used, including plastic, aluminum, and cast iron.

 

No matter the material, all tortilla presses operate the same way.  Two plates are hinged at the back, and a handle extends in front of the top plate. A small lump of dough (about two tablespoons, in general) is rolled in a ball and slightly flattened. The press is opened and a sheet of parchment paper, plastic film, or similar material is laid down on the bottom plate.  The dough is centered on it, and covered with a second sheet.  You don’t want to forget this step, or you’ll be scraping dough off the press for the next few days. The top plate is lowered to the dough, and, using the handle for leverage, pressed down to form a disk of the appropriate thickness. For what it’s worth, Guatemalan tortillas tend to be thicker than Mexican.  I have no idea why.

 

Sounds simple enough.  And it is.  But there are nuances. For instance, because the hinges are not articulated, there’s a tendency for the tortilla to be thinner at the front. So you get around that by rotating the entire package, and repeating the process. 

 

Basically, we’re talking about a learning curve, is all. And it doesn’t take long to figure it all out. The hardest part, frankly, is determining which release medium works best for you. For me personally, what works is to cut a large zipper bag completely open, then cut those two pieces into circles the size of the press.  Not only is it the easiest to work with, they are washable, and can be reused numerous times.

 

For me, parchment paper, even cut to fit, didn’t do the job, because I had trouble centering the dough. And plastic wrap, which many people use successfully, was just a joke in my hands.  Plastic grocery bags are favored by many people. Once I started using the zipper bags, however, I didn’t go any further. So have no feel for them.

 

Although there are other methods, the most common way of “baking” a tortilla is on a comel---a metal or clay griddle which is preheated. Each tortilla is peeled off the release medium and transferred to the comel.  Traditionally, tortillas are flipped three times.  After the first 20 seconds (when the edges begin to lift) it is flipped, cooked for 45 seconds, flipped for another 45 seconds, and flipped for a final 20-30 seconds.

 

Obviously, for this to work, the temperature of the comel has to be just right.  But, with a little experimentation, you quickly develop a feel for it.  And the tortilla, itself, provides some clues. When done right, it will have a cooked look about it, with little brown spots here and there on both sides.  If those spots don’t appear, the temperature is probably too low. If the spots are black, the heat is too high.

 

As each tortilla is finished it gets transferred to a tortilla warmer to keep warm. There seems to be a lot of mysticism about tortilla warmers, which I don’t understand.  What we’re talking about is a straight-sided bowl made of clay, wood, metal, plastic, or other material.  Even bamboo and woven grass have been used. I have a glass bowl that happened to be exactly the same configuration, and it works just fine.

 

The bowl gets lined with a dish cloth. As each tortilla is finished it gets transferred to the bowl, and the dish towel folded over as a cover. Each succeeding tortilla is stacked on top of the previous one. This will keep them warm for at least half an hour, and prevent them from drying out.

 

Tortilla dough is, itself, the height of simplicity. I’ve looked at more than a dozen recipes, and they are all virtually the same. Here’s the one I’ve settled on:

 

CORN TORTILLAS

 

2 ¼ cups masa harina

Healthy pinch of salt

1 ¾ cups warm water

 

Mix the masa and salt. Slowly add 1 ¾ cups water, mixing with your hands. If necessary, add additional water, a little at a time. Let the dough rest, covered with a damp towel, at least ten minutes.

 

Divide dough into 12 equal pieces. Form each piece into a ball by rolled in your palms, covering them with a damp towel as they are formed.

 

Preheat a comel or griddle. Cook 2 to 2 ½ minutes, until golden (or, to be traditional, follow the directions given above). Flip, cook the second side 2 to 2 ½ minutes, flip and cook about 30 seconds more.

 

Stack in a bowl or tortilla warmer, covered with a damp towel, so steam is retained and tortillas remain soft.

 

One trick I learned: As each dough ball is formed, put it in one of the cups in a muffin tin.  This makes it easier to keep everything organized, and a damp kitchen towel covers the pan perfectly.

 

For most North Americans, tortillas are synonymous with tacos. This is understandable, because of the way they’ve been marketed. Indeed, there are places that still sell them as “taco shells.”   But the fact is, tortillas are the building blocks of a whole cuisine. Among their many uses:

 

Tostados. These are tortillas that are deep fried until browned and crisp on the outside, but still tender on the inside. They’ll be crisp, but not brittle. Fillings are piled on the bread, and eaten that way.  For many people, tostados are considered the ultimate in street food.

     The folded, crispy tortillas sold in supermarkets as taco shells are a pale imitation of true tostados.

 

Sopes. One step above tostados, sopes are often called “masa boats.” They start off as thicker tortillas. The dough is then drawn out from the middle, and the edges pinched upwards.  All in all, they resemble tart shells.  These are deep fried, and serve as a dish to hold the filling.  There’s more than neatness involved, however. To me, along with many other people, more of the corn flavor comes through than it does with a tostado.

 

Quesadillas. Start with a soft tortilla, laid on a hot comel or griddle. Pile a filling---usually cheese-based---in the middle, then fold the tortilla in half over the stuffing.  Let it cook, flipping once to prevent burning, until the cheese melts.  Basically, an incredible version of a grilled cheese sandwich.

 

Enchiladas.  Soft tortillas are either folded or rolled around a filling, lined up in a baking dish, covered with a sauce, and baked.  “Enchilada” literally means “enrobed in chili.”  In keeping with that, many cooks first dip the tortillas in a hot chili sauce, then continue making the dish from there. 

 

Chilaquiles. Actually a casserole, chilaquiles originated as a way of using up stale tortillas. Today they are made from scratch. Tortilla chips or strips of fried tortillas are mixed with a sauce, and cooked---either on the stove top or in the oven—until done.  The final dish will have tortilla pieces that, while tender, still retain some of their crunch.

 

Gorditas. The closest thing to a sandwich, the way most of us think of them, gorditas also start with thicker than usual tortillas. These get quick-fried until the outsides are just crisp, drained, and cooled. Pockets, similar to Pita, are cut into each one, and fillings stuffed into the opening. 

 

In many respects, Gorditas resemble Arepas.  We’ll have more to say about that next time.

 

 

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I've received a few inquiries from members wondering what, exactly, constitutes Central America.

What we're talking about is the seven countries forming a land bridge between Mexico (which is considered part of North America), and the South American countries below the Panama Canal. They are: Guatemala, Belize. Honduras, El Salvador, Nicaragua, Costa Rica, and Panama.

These countries are also, to a greater or lesser degree, those dominated by the Mayan empire, whose heartland was what is now Guatemala. 
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Before continuing I want to talk about one more reference that I’m finding invaluable: Amalia’s Guatemalan Kitchen, which fills a major gap.

To be sure, until I focused on Central America as the theme I was fine with the references discussed above. Elizabeth Ortiz’s iconic The Book of Latin American Cooking, in particular, served as an introduction to, and overview of, Latin foodways.

 

Ortiz’s book suffers from one major flaw, however; Central America is conspicuous in its absence. There is, to be sure, a small handful of recipes with a Guatemalan origin. But, essentially, the book takes us from Mexico to South America, without using the land bridge that connects the two.  The Time/Life Foods of Latin America, which she edited, suffers from the same void.

 

Amalia’s Guatemalan Kitchen fills that void with a vengeance. There are 170 recipes in this 420 page book. But, it’s much more than a group of recipes.  It’s filled, instead, with Guatemalan cultural insights, cooking methodology, and in-depth lists of ingredients and kitchen tools. 

 

Frankly, I can’t recommend it highly enough for anyone with an interest in Central American foodways.

 

Amalia’s Guatemalan Kitchen, Amalia Moreno-Damgaard, Beaver Pond Press, Edina, MN, 2013

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Picking up where we left off, let’s talk about arepas, the other great flatbread of Latin America. 

Both Colombia and Venezuela claim credit for developing arepas.  Most authorities put the nod on Venezuela as the center of origination.  However, the records indicate that indigenous peoples were making similar flatbreads long before European contact. What’s more, while those ancient cultures were corn-centric, they made those flatbreads---in whole or in part---from other grains, grasses, and tubers as well; such as amaranth, quinoa, yucca, cassava, and even sweet potatoes.

Throughout modern Latin America, we still find those same enrichments---as well as others, such as rice---being used today. 

Whether Venezuela or Colombia was the point of origin is irrelevant. Arepas spread rapidly throughout South America, and crossed the Isthmus into Central America as well.  Starting a few years back, chefs in the U.S. and Europe started offering them on their menus, and, world-wide, they are becoming almost as popular as tacos.

Superficially, arepas are not much different than tortillas, other than the way the corn is processed.

For most applications, for instance, a ball of arepas dough is put in a tortilla press, and made into a flat disk.  The variations come, primarily, from how thick the disk is made.  Using the same basic recipe, disks are pressed as thinly as 1/6 inch, as wrappers for empanadas, to 1/2 inch for the more-or-less standard, pancake-like arepas.

But it doesn’t stop there.  Using the same amount of dough, one could make 16 thin arepas, much like tortillas. Moving up to ½ inch produces six more or less standard arepas. That same quantity can be shaped in the hands to make as few as four arepas buns---the shape and size, by the way, most favored by modern chefs.

In general, tortillas and arepas can substitute for each other in most applications.  Personally, I prefer the texture and taste of arepas dough, because more of the corn flavor comes through. 

It astounds me, too, how little variation there is in the basic recipe.  Certainly there are minor differences in the ratio of flour to water. But recipes for arepas dough are amazingly consistent, with the major difference being whether the particular baker uses oil (mostly in the form of corn oil or lard) or not.  Here is the basic recipe I prefer:

AREPAS

(South American Corn Dough)

2 cups masarepas

2 cups water

1 tsp salt

1 tbls oil or lard

Combine the water, oil, and salt in a large bowl, mixing well to dissolve the salt. Slowly add the masarepas, mixing with your hands as you add it. Cover with a damp towel and let rest ten minutes.

There are three ways of cooking arepas:

To grill them: Heat a comel or cast-iron griddle over medium-high heat, and brush very lightly with oil.  Divide the dough into 6 equal pieces and shape each to a disk ½ inch thick and about four inches in diameter. Place the arepas on the griddle and cook three to five minutes per side, just to seal the dough. Reduce the heat to medium or medium low and continue cooking eight to ten minutes per side, until golden brown and lightly charred in spots, reducing the heat as necessary. Arepas should be lightly puffed and sound hollow when tapped.

To bake them:  Pre-heat oven to 350F. Seal the arepas on a hot oiled griddle three to five minutes per side. Transfer to a baking pan and bake 18-20 minutes until they’ve puffed slightly and sound hollow when tapped.

To fry them: Shape dough into 12 rounds, ¼-inch thick. In a large skillet, heat an inch of oil to about 375F. Add arepas and fry 10 minutes until golden brown. Drain on paper towels.

Although not always the case, arepas are basically a sandwich bread.  Traditionally, they are cut through the middle, leaving a hinge on one side. This creates a pita-like hollow, which gets stuffed with the filling of choice. 

As with tortillas, the fillings are what differentiate one from another. Unlike tortillas, however, the dough, itself, is often enriched with other ingredients. Cheese is, perhaps, the most common. But others include anise seed, rice, quinoa, etc.

What goes into an arepas?  As with tortillas, pretty much anything you please.  Here’s one of my favorites, adapted from a Mexican recipe for stuffed mini-tortillas called Sambutes:

For the main filling:

2 tbls vegetable oil

8 oz lean minced pork

1 med. onion, chopped

2-3 Roma tomatoes, peeled and chopped

Salt & Pepper to taste

Sprinkle (about ½ tsp or to taste) of Sazon seasoning (opt)

Heat the oil in a heavy skillet and sauté the pork until it is lightly browned. Puree the onion and tomatoes in a blender or food processor and add to the pork. Season with salt and pepper, and simmer, uncovered, until mixture is thick and fairly dry, 

Sazon is a seasoning mix ubiquitous in Latin America. It comes in two forms, one with annatto as an ingredient (Sazon con annatto) and one without.  It’s readily available on-line or in Latin markets. Or, you can easily make your own:

SAZON CON ANNATTO

(Latin American Universal Seasoning)

1 tbls ground coriander seed

1 tbls ground cumin

1 tbls ground annatto seed

1 tbls garlic powder

1 tsp salt

½ tsp ground black peppercorns

Combine all ingredients well. Store in an airtight container

For the arepas:

Cut the arepas to form a pocket.  Spread the inside bottom with a layer of refried black beans.  Add the meat.  Top with tomatillo salsa to taste.

CHIRMOL DE MILTOMATE

(Guat. Spicy Tomatillo Salsa)

8 small (ping-pong ball sized) tomatillos, husked

1 serrano chili

1 ½ tbls finely diced onion

½ tbls finely chopped flat-leaf parsley

½ tbls finely chopped cilantro

1 tsp freshly squeezed lime juice

½ tsp sea salt

Using a dry pan or grill (cast-iron preferred), roast the tomatillos until charred and softened, about eight minutes. Chop the tomatillos finely. Char the serrano and chop it finely.

Combine the tomatillos and chili with the rest of the ingredients. Taste and adjust seasonings.

Of necessity, pre-contact indigenous people were confined to flat breads, using locally available ingredients. The Colonial and Modern eras changed all that.

Much has been made about all the New World ingredients that changed the face of European cookery.  What many people do not realize is that it was two-way street.  “New,” that is, European ingredients and techniques had an indelible effect of the cuisines of Latin America. 

This is nowhere as evident as with bread. While flat breads still prevail, there is an incredible number of leavened breads in the Latin repertoire. Others don’t really rise, but are self-supporting, with a consistency similar to the spoon breads of the American south.

Some of them, such as the Mexican Bolilos, and Cuban Pan Cubano de Manteca, have even achieved world-wide acclaim.

Very often, we find that New World ingredients and Old World techniques---or vice-versa--- melded into a true fusion---something that’s generally true about all Latin American cuisines.  Here are a couple of examples:

PAN DE COMOTE

(Guat. Sweet Potato Bread)

This is an iconic Guatemalan bread.  It’s on the sweet side, which is how most Latins like their bread.

     One cautionary note: The recipe I used only gave amounts in metric units, which I translated as best as possible. So, if your scale measures in metric, I advise going that route.

1,000g/2lb 2 oz bread flour

300g/10 oz water

500g/2 cups sweet potato puree

20g/3/4 oz salt

20g/3/4 oz instant yeast

130g/4.5 oz sugar

200g/7 oz butter at room temperature

3 egg yolks, beaten

Mix the flour, salt, yeast, sugar and water to an homogeneous mass. Knead it for 20 minutes (10 with a stand mixer) on a lightly floured work surface, gradually working in the butter.

Once a soft dough is achieved, add the sweet potato, and knead 10 minutes (5 in stand mixer) more.

Divide dough into 40 gram (1 ½ oz) pieces. Roll each into a ball, then roll each ball into a strip about 25 cm (about 10 inches) long. Lay two strips side-by-side, and, working from the middle, cross the ends twice, to obtain a braided look.

Prep a baking sheet. Line it with parchment paper, sprinkle with cornmeal or semolina, and lay braids on it. Cover with greased plastic film, and let rest in a warm place until doubled in bulk, about 40 minutes.

Preheat oven to 180C/350F. Brush braids with the eggs and bake 15 minutes.

SOPA PARAGUAYA

(Paraguayan Corn Bread)

Here’s an example of a bread whose ingredients are self-supporting. As a result, it doesn’t “rise” very high. But its hearty flavors more than make up for its lack of height.

125g/1/4 lb butter

2 medium onions, finely chopped

225g/1/2 lb cottage cheese

225g/1/2 lb cheddar cheese, grated

225g/1/2 lb cornmeal

350g/12oz grated corn kernels or a 1-pound can creamed sweet corn

1 tsp sea salt

300ml/1 cup milk

6 eggs separated.

Lightly grease a baking pan, sprinkle with flour to coat the surface, spill off any excess.

Heat two ounces of the butter in a skillet and sauté the onions until they are softened. Set aside. Cream the remaining butter and add to the cottage cheese, blending thoroughly. Add the cheddar cheese and the onions.  In another bowl combine the cornmeal, corn, salt, and milk, and mix thoroughly. Combine the corn mixture with the cheese mixture, blending them well.

Beat the egg whites until they form soft peaks and beat the yolks separately. Combine the two and fold them into the cornmeal and cheese mixture. Pour the batter into the baking pan.

Bake in a preheated 400F oven for 45 minutes, or until a cake tester comes out clean.

PAN DE BANANO MADURA

(Guat. Banana Bread)

I’ve seen several versions of this bread, some made with yeast, others with baking powder and/or baking soda.  They vary both in the amount of banana used, and the warm spices chosen, and it what amounts. I chose this version for no particular reason than the amount of banana used, and the addition of coconut milk.

1 ½ pounds ripe bananas (about six)

1 ½ cups coconut milk

1 ½ sticks margarine, at room temperature

2 cups flour

½ tsp salt

2 tsp baking powder

Pinch baking soda

1 tsp grated nutmeg

½ tsp vanilla extract

2 tbls raisins (opt)

Process the bananas and coconut milk into a smooth paste. Add the margarine and combine smoothly.

Add the flour, salt, baking powder, baking soda, nutmeg, vanilla, and raisins. Mix well.

Pour into a large, buttered pan (12 x 16 inches is ideal). Bake in a pre-heated 350F oven for 30 minutes, or until a cake tester comes out clean.

TAKIANAS O RODILLAS DE CRISTO ENQUESILLADAS

(Christ’s Knees)

Many Latin breads have a religious connection, either because they are served on special holidays, or because there is a more direct symbolism.  Developed in South American convents, the red cross-shaped marks are said to symbolize the open wounds on Christ’s knees on his way to Calvary.

¼ cup sugar

1 ½ cups warm water plus 1 tbls for the crust

3 tbls lard or butter

1 ¼ tsp active dry yeast

4 cups bread flour

1 tbls salt

2 oz Monterey Jack cheese, coarsely grated (about ½ cup)

1 tbls achiote-infused corn oil

Combine the sugar and warm water in a small saucepan, add the lard or butter, and heat gently, stirring to dissolve the sugar, just until it melts. Let the mixture cool to 110F. Whisk in the yeast and let sit until bubbly, about 10 minutes, then whisk lightly.

Combine the flour and salt in a large mixing bowl. Make a well in the center and pour in the yeast mixture; mix with a fork until combined.  Gather the dough into a ball, turn onto a work surface, and knead vigorously until smooth, about 10 minutes. Place in a lightly oiled bowl, turn to coat evenly, and cover with plastic wrap.  Let rise until doubled in bulk, about 1 ½ hours. Butter a baking sheet.

Turn out the dough onto a lightly floured work surface. Knead vigorously for 3 minutes and form into a ball. Shape the dough into a 14-inch long log and cut it into twelve pieces with a sharp knife. Shape each piece into a ball.

Butter a baking sheet. In a small bowl, combine the grated cheese and achiote oil.  Mix to a rough paste with the remaining tablespoon warm water.  Flatten each roll lightly with the palm of your hand and cut a shallow cross in the center with scissors. Push about a teaspoon of the cheese mixture into the cut.  Place the rolls on the baking sheet, cover loosely with a moist kitchen towel, and let rise for one hour.

Preheat the oven to 400F. Using a spray bottle, spray the oven walls with water. Quickly slide the rolls into the oven and reduce the heat to 350F.  Repeat the spraying twice at 30 second intervals.  Bake the rolls, turning pan halfway through cooking, until they develop a golden crust, about 20 minutes.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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One hallmark of Guatemalan cuisine is its use of spices. Guatemalans, for sure, like their food on the spicy side. But “spicy” doesn’t mean “hot.”  Chilies, for instance, or used to provide flavor, rather than heat for heat’s sake. And this is generally true for most Guatemalan foods.  The emphasis is on flavor. And, the closer a dish is to its Mayan roots, the more that tends to be true.

You can readily see that in the foods of the Yucatan.  The common belief is that Yucatanian food will numb your tongue and blow the roof off your mouth.  True, there are many dishes that are atomic in nature. But just as many, or more, do not have those heat levels.  Find one of them, and I’ll lay you 12 to 7 odds the dish is Mayan in origination.

To help achieve this pursuit of flavor, there’s an incredible variety of straight-on herbs and spices, as well as spice blends. sauces and salsas; rubs, and other flavoring elements.  Some of these have fairly strict recipes. But most of them, as stands to reason, have the same basics adjusted to the individual cook’s desires. 

We’ll be looking at many of them as this series continues. For right now, however, I want to discuss a great irony. Despite the diversity of flavoring agents used by Guatemalan housewives, the number one hot sauce in the country is a commercial product.

Called Salsa Brava, we’re talking about a green hot sauce, with the brand name Picama’s.  Guatemalans, who literally put it on everything, simply refer to it as “Picamas.”

Based on my research, my impression is that no matter what goes into a dish, it doesn’t have a sprinkle of Picamas, it isn’t really Guatamalan.  Obviously, I had to have some.  But it’s not the sort of thing found on most local grocery shelves. 

An internet search yielded a surprising number of hits.  For an initial order, I went with

Zocalo foods, both because their prices were good, and they had it in several sizes.  I ordered two of the smallest (7.5 oz.) bottles, one for me and one for a friend, as a test.

This resulted in two great discoveries; the hot sauce, itself, which is deep with flavor and just enough heat to perk things up, and Zocalo foods.

Zocalo (ZocaloFoods.com) is an on-line grocery specializing in Latin American foods.  At a time when customer service seems to be a black hole, Zocalo is a ray of light.  I cannot praise them enough, for how they handle orders, and their follow-up emails. Is there another company, for instance, that sends out emails over the president’s signature welcoming you to the family? Sure, it’s generated automatically after your first order..  But it’s the thought that counts. 

Everything about them seems to reflect that level of caring.

At any rate, if you decide to order Picama’s---or other Latin American products—I recommend you give Zocalo a try.

By the way, make sure you are ordering the right product.  There’s a red version, as well, which is not the same thing.

 

 

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They call them adobos, and chirmoles, and chilitos and recados, and salsas. These are the flavorings: the toppings, braises, marinades, and sauces that give Central American foods their taste, color, and distinctive identity. 

 In North America we’re likely to just group them as “salsas.” But there are subtle differences between those various categories; sometimes so much so that I’m too nearsighted to tell the difference.  Add to that the fact that many of them are multi-use flavorings.  For example, an adobo might, be used as a marinade in one recipe.  That same mixture, however, might serve as a dipping sauce with another recipe. 

 Confusing? Don’t let it be.  Most of the time it doesn’t matter, because the ingredients making up the mixture will be included as part of the recipe; or the author will refer you to a recipe for making that flavoring.

 There are, literally, hundreds of these flavor bases and enhancers, without even counting the housewife to housewife variations.  The ones that follow are in no particular order.  I’ve included them primarily because they highlight the diversity of flavors found in Central American cuisine, and provide you a starting point if you want to experiment with them.

 With rare exception, no self-respecting Latina would make them except fresh from scratch. Indeed, many of them won’t keep more than a day or two anyway.  But there are some that are more in the nature of condiments.  Achiote infused oil, for instance, gives Guatemalan food its vibrant color.  It’s used in almost everything, and has a seeming shelf life lasting two days longer than forever. Personally, I use it up too fast to know for sure.

 Here, then, is a glimpse at the flavors of Central America:

 ACHIOTE O MANTECA DE COLOR

(Achiote Infused Oil)

 2 cups corn oil, olive oil, or rendered lard

½ cup annatto seed

Place oil and annatto seed in a small saucepan. Heat gently until oil just starts to bubble. Let cool. Strain oil and discard seeds.

 RELAJO SALVEADORENO

(Salvadorian Spice Mix)

1 guajillo chili, stemmed and seeded

1 ancho chili, stemmed and seeded

1 tbls peppercorns

1 tsp cloves

1 bay leaf

2 tbls sesame seeds

2 tbls pumpkin seeds

3 tbls unsalted peanuts

1 tsp oregano

1 tsp thyme

1 tbls ground achiote

Toast ingredients on a heated comel over medium-high heat in this order: chilies, 2-3 minutes; peppercorns, cloves, bay leaf, 1 minute; then the sesame seeds, pumpkin seeds, and peanuts for 2 minutes.

Chop the chilies into fine bits. Crumble bay leaf into small pieces.

Combine toasted ingredients with dried herbs and achiote and grind to a powder in a spice mill.

ADOBO

(Guat. Marinade/Braising Sauce)

½ cup roughly chopped tomatillos

1 cup roughly chopped tomatoes

1 guajillo chili, seeded and torn into small bits

1 pasillo chili, seeded and torn into small bits.

¼ cup water’1/3 cup chopped yellow onion

1 tbls minced garlic    

¼ tsp oregano, crumbled

1 bay leaf

¼ tsp cumin

1/8 tsp ground cloves

1/8 tsp cinnamon

¼ tsp ground achiote

4 tsp white wine vinegar

1 tbls vegetable oil

Black pepper to taste

Cook the tomatillos, tomatoes, and chilies in the water until soft, about 5 minutes. Let cool.

Put the mixture in a blender with the remaining ingredients and puree to a fine consistency. The sauce should be thick and pasty so it will stick to the meat. Taste and adjust seasoning if needed.

ADOBO GUATEMALTECO SIMPLE

(Guat. Simple Marinade/Braising Sauce)

1 ½ lbs tomatillos (about 12 small)

3 plum tomatoes, peeled and seeded

8 garlic cloves

2 tsp salt

1 tsp achiote paste

1 tsp peppercorns

½ tsp oregano

½ tsp cumin

¼ cup white vinegar

Put all ingredients in a blender or food processor and process to a fine puree.

To use: Rub pork, beef, or poultry all over with adobo. Let marinate, tightly covered, for at least 2 hours or up to 12 hours in the refrigerator.

CHIRMOL DE TOMATE

(Guat. Tomato Salsa)

3 Roma tomatoes*

2 tbls onion, finely diced

1 tbls mint, finely chopped                                                                  

1 tbls cilantro, finely chopped

2 tsp fresh lime juice

½ tsp bird’s eye chili, minced (optional)

½ tsp sea salt

Dry pan roast or grill the tomatoes until they’re charred all over and soft, 8-10 minutes. Chop them coarsely, but do not peel them.

Combine the tomatoes with the other ingredients. Taste and adjust seasonings if necessary.

*Can sub tomatillos for the tomatoes, or use half and half. But see the following as well:

CHIRMOL DE MILTOMATE

(Guat. Tomatillo Salsa)

8 small (ping-pong ball sized) tomatillos

1 Serrano chili

1 ½ tbls onion, finely chopped

½ tbls parsley, finely chopped

½ tbls cilantro, finely chopped

1 tsp fresh lime juice

½ tsp sea salt

CHIRMOL FRITO

(Guat. Sofrito)

2 tsp vegetable oil

2 12/ tbls finely diced Roma tomatoes

1 tbls finely diced yellow onion

1-2 Thai (Bird’s Eye) chilies (opt)

3 tbls water

¼ tsp sea salt

Put the oil in a hot skillet. Add the tomatoes, on90 chilies, water and salt. Cook over medium heat until saucy and thick, about 3 minutes.

Taste and adjust seasoning if needed.

IGUAXTE

(Guat. Mayan Multi-Use Sauce)

1 tbls vegetable oil

3 tbls finely diced yellow onion

½ cup finely diced red bell pepper

1 tsp minced garlic

1 cup finely diced Roma tomatoes

1 mulato chili, seeded & torn into small bits

½ cup chicken stock

1 tbls ground roasted pumpkin seeds

¾ tsp sea salt

Black pepper to taste

Pour the oil into a medium hot skillet. Add the onion and bell pepper, and sauté until the onion is translucent, about two minutes.  Add the garlic and sauté one minute. Add the tomatoes, the chili pieces, and the stock, and continue cooking until all ingredients are soft, about three minutes longer.

Season with pumpkin seeds, salt, and pepper. Taste and adjust seasoning as needed.

AMARILLO

(Guat. Tomato, Tomatillo & Red Bell Pepper Sauce)

½ cup chicken stock

1/3 cup onion, roughly chopped

1/3 cup red bell pepper, roughly chopped

3 sm. garlic cloves

1/3 cup Roma tomatoes, roughly chopped

1/3 cup tomatillo, roughly chopped

1 bay leaf

1 tbls vegetable oil

½ tsp achiote powder dissolved in a little hot water

½ tsp sea salt

Black pepper to taste

1 tbls bread crumbs, or 1 tbls A-P flour dissolved in cold water, or 1 corn tortilla broken into small pieces, soaked in hot water, and then pureed.*

*Taste will vary, subtly, based on thickener used.

Make the sauce: Combine the stock with the onion, bell pepper, garlic, tomatoes, tomatillos and bay leaf in a medium saucepan, and bring to a quick boil. Reduce the heat and simmer, covered, until all vegetables are soft, 5-8 minutes. Then puree in a blender, or use an immersion blender.

Heat the oil in a medium saucepan and add the puree and achiote liquid. Season with salt and pepper. Add the thickener or choice and simmer for 3 minutes. Adjust seasonings if necessary.

RECADO PARA CHUCHITOS

(Guat. Tomato, Red Bell Pepper, and Guajillo Sauce)

1 cup quartered Roma tomatoes (about 2 large)

½ cup quartered tomatillos (3-4 ping-pong sized)

1 ½ guajillo chilies, seeded

½ cup chopped red bell pepper

1 small yellow onion in thick slices

2 large garlic cloves

½ cup chicken stock

2 tbls vegetable oil

1 ½-2 tsp achiote powder dissolved in a little hot water

Salt & black pepper to taste

Combine the first seven ingredients in a medium saucepan and bring to a quick boil. Lower the heat and simmer, covered, until all the vegetables are soft (5-8 minutes). Puree in a blender to a fine constancy. The sauce should be smooth and velvety.

Heat the oil in a medium saucepan, add the puree and achiote liquid, and season with salt and pepper. Lower the heat and simmer 3 minutes. Adjust the seasoning as needed.

The sauce should be bright orange with the consistency of spaghetti sauce.

RECADO PARA TAMALES COLORADOS

(Guat. Roasted Ancho, Guajillo, Mulato, Tomato and Pumpkin Seed Sauce)

1 cup Roma tomatoes, quartered (about 2 large)

½ cup tomatillos, quartered (3-4 small)

½ cup red bell pepper, chopped

Be bright orange and have the consistency of spaghetti sauce. If it’s too thick, add a little chicken stock or water

2 garlic cloves

1 guajillo chili, seeded (or half chili for less spice)

½ mulato chili, seeded

½ ancho chili, seeded

1 tbls pan-roasted pumpkin seeds, ground

1 tbls pan-roasted sesame seeds, ground

2 tbls vegetable oil

1 ½-2 tsp ground achiote dissolved in a little hot water

¼-1/2 tsp cinnamon

Sea salt and black pepper to taste

Heat a skillet for two minutes over medium heat, then add the vegetables. Dry pan roast them until they’re charred all over and mushy, about 8-10 minutes.

Separately dry pan roast the chilies over medium heat, 3-5 minutes. Keep a close eye on them so they don’t burn. Soak the roasted chilies in one cup very hot water for ten minutes.

Dry pan roast the seeds over medium heat, 3-5 minutes. Watch them carefully, as they burn easily.  Grind the seeds in a spice mill or small food processor.

Combine the roasted vegetables with the soaked chilies and ¼ cup of the soaking water, and puree in a blender to a fine consistency. The sauce should be smooth and velvety.

Heat the oil in a medium saucepan and add the puree, achiote liquid, seeds, and seasonings. Lower the heat and simmer five minutes. Adjust seasonings if necessary.

The sauce should be bright orange, and have the consistency of spaghetti sauce. If it’s too thick, add a little chicken stock or water. If too thin, cook it a little longer.

MANGTEQUILLA DE AJO, LIMON Y CILANTRO

(Guat. Garlic, Lime, Cilantro, and Achiote Butter)

2 tbls butter

¼ tsp achiote

2 tbls minced garlic

1 stick (half cup) butter at room temperature

½ tsp cumin

2 tbls finely chopped cilantro

1 ½ tbls lime juice

¼ tsp sea salt

Black pepper to taste

Melt the 2 tablespoons butter in a small skillet. Add the achiote and dissolve. Add the garlic and cook until aromatic, about 1 ½ minutes. Cool slightly.

In a medium bowl (or use a mixer with paddle attachment) beat the ½ cup butter with a sturdy spatula until it’s creamy. While beating, gradually add the rest of the ingredients. Start with the melted butter mixture, and then add the cumin, cilantro, lime juice, and seasonings.  Continue beating until the butter is light and fluffy, about 2 minutes. Taste and adjust seasonings if needed.

Refrigerate or freeze the butter for later use.

CHILITO

(Guat. Bird’s Eye Chile, Onion, Lime and Olive Oil Salsa)

15-20 Bird’s Eye (Thai) chilies

2 tbls chopped onion

2 tbls lime juice or 1 tbls white vinegar

2 tbls water or 3-4 tbls if using vinegar

1 tbls olive oil

¼ tsp sea salt

Puree all ingredients in a blender, or, for a chunkier texture, chop the veggies by hand. Taste and adjust seasoning if needed.

Store the chilito in the refrigerator until ready to use.

CHIRMOL SALVADORETO

(Salvadorian Salsa Cruda)

6 medium plum tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and cut in small cubes (about 1 ½ cups)

1 medium white onion, finely chopped (about 1 cup)

1 small green bell pepper, finely chopped (about ½ cup)

1 jalapeno, seeded and finely chopped

2 tsp finely chopped cilantro

Juice of 2 medium bitter oranges (about ½ cup), strained

1 tsp salt

Combine all ingredients in a small bowl. Serve at room temperature or chilled. Best when freshly made, but will keep in fridge 2-4 days if tightly covered.

CHIRMOL DE CAMARON SECO

(Guat. Dried Shrimp Sauce)

2 oz dried shrimp (available in Latin and Asian Markets)

2 tbls corn oil

1 small red onion, finely chopped (about ¾ cup)

4 garlic cloves, finely chopped

6 medium plum tomatoes, finely chopped

4 Scallions, white and pale green parts, finely chopped

1 tbls dried whole piquin chilies

¼ tsp salt or to taste

Heat a comal, griddle, or heavy skillet over medium-high heat until hot. Add the shrimp and roast, stirring, for 4 minutes. Transfer to a food processor or blender and pulse to grind.  Set aside.

Heat the oil in a medium skillet over medium-high heat. Add the onion and garlic and sauté until golden, about 5 minutes.  Add the tomatoes, scallions, and chilies and cook for about 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. Stir in the ground shrimp.  Taste for salt.

Will keep for 2-3 days in the fridge, tightly covered. Serve at room temperature.

 

 

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Margi Cintrano Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 November 2021 at 11:56

Brook (Historic Foodie),

Firstly, a Congratulations is in order for an absolutely exceptional masterpiece.

Truly an amazing read too.  

I enjoy fried yuca and green plantains (platanos machos they are called colloquially) from time to time and have them at a Cuban Restaurant which opened in the very early 1960s and now the daughter and her family run the Cuban Restaurant & Cuban Blues & Jazz Bar.  So around it is a lovely evening out.  

Quite a number of years ago, we had a Paraguyan neighbour who used to prepare some amazing corn bread and I am quite fond of Chupe, a Peruvian thick prawn soup with Peruvian chilie peppers and corn. 

  


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote HistoricFoodie Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 November 2021 at 21:41
Hey, Margi,

Good to hear from you.  

I wish I could include more South American dishes.  But that just too much to chew in one piece.  So, for now, I stick with Central America, foraging out to other Mayan influenced areas, such as the Yucatan.

Perhaps later on I'll do a second exploration focusing on South America.  A lot depends on what the members would like to see.  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Margi Cintrano Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 November 2021 at 04:32
Hey Brook,

Had a long chat with Ron yesterday.  He asked me to send you his best regards.

Yes, I see that the masterpiece focused on Central American Countries at this time.

Yucatan:  I  may have some recipes on subject region of Mexico. 

If interested, I could scan them or photograph and send to you via email .. 

I had travelled during University (ages ago ! ) through Mexico and collected thousands of recipes !

I can send some of the best of them if you wish to take a look !!!

There was a LATIN AMERICAN Edition of GOURMET MAGAZINE in the 1990s. If you can get your hands on it -- it has some very valuable and wonderful traditional recipes .. 

I have it ..  My my, what I  save !!!   

Despite my minimalism tendencies, I am quite collective !!

Anyway, always a pleasure to read your essays of grand worth.

Check The Paraguay Section.  I sent and posted the Cornbread of Liliana, my old neighbour.  Her cornbread was truly a jewel.  I have not prepared it in years ( 7 or 8 years ago when we moved and bought our apartment close to my old rental ) 


Ron, I believe prepared it !!!  And the Chupe, chowder type soup but Paraguay tradition not Peruvian.

Also check the Mexican section. There maybe something from the Yucatan.  They wrap fish in leaves and also meats too .. 

Very natural type cooking,  on flame.  

Ok, let me know, and I would  post a Yucatan recipe -- A bit short on time with my magazine however, so be patient and I shall browse my books on Mexican cuisines and also the LATIN AMERICAN EDITION OF GOURMET MAGAZINE which closed its print edition approx. 2009 - 2014 more or less. 

Have a healthy,  wonderful, fulfilling and prosperous New Year 2022 and let´s keep in touch more often.   

Kindest regards,
Margaux.
www.Beyond-taste.com 
(CLICK:  English) 

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote HistoricFoodie Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 November 2021 at 22:53
Thanks for the tips, Margi.  

The fact is, the Yucatan deserves a culinary  exploration of its own, because the cuisine is distinctive enough to stand alone.

The Yucatan was part of the Mayan empire, and its foodways remain heavily influenced by that culture; much more so than any other part of Mexico. There's also a heavier influence of the Latin Carribean, and a greater emphasis on seafood---which stands to reason, given its location.

The same concept could be applied to  Belieze, because of the British influence generally lacking in the rest of Latin America.

Latin America is filled with a diversity of these unique cuisines.  Another that comes to mind, of course, is Bahain food, which is radically different than the rest of Brazil. 

A person could easily spend a lifetime just studying these differences.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Margi Cintrano Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 November 2021 at 12:29

Historic Foodie, Brook,

Yes, very true.  

When we travelled to Rivera de Maya, Tulum, The Mayan Ruins and further south on the Yucatan, we had eaten numerous fish and shellfish dishes.  The one that stands out from memory as mentioned was a whole fish wrapped in indigenious leaves (banana if I recall correctly).   

Belize .. yes, The only British former colony in Central America.  Fascinating subject and I can see you are busy with your research !

Best of luck with the project.  Looking forward to reading more ..

Have a wonderful weekend.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote HistoricFoodie Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 November 2021 at 22:21
I'd love to see some of those recipes, Margi, particularly from the Yucatan. I suspect, from peripheral reading, that Yucatanan foods will be my next project.  Either that or Bahian.

When you get a chance, please forward them on.

You still have my email addy?


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Margi Cintrano Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 November 2021 at 13:40


Historic Foodie,

Due to our time difference, I cannot do now however, between now, Monday evening the 22nd and this coming weekend,  I shall go into the antique trunk where I store precious books and magazines worth saving.  

And post the Yucatan Fish ..

And anything else that would fit into Yucatan ..  

Have a lovely evening.
22.00 







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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote HistoricFoodie Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 November 2021 at 05:57
Thanks, Margi.

I'm looking forward to seeing them.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Margi Cintrano Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 November 2021 at 14:05


Mixote de Carne .. 
Beef with Guajillo Sauce baked in banana leaves ..

Recipe:  (Serves 8) 

3 ounces of Guajillo or New Mexican chilies wiped clean (approx. 12 )
3 tablsp Annatto seeds
1 1/2  tablsp Cumin seeds
5 large garlic cloves - chopped finely
1 / 2  distilled white vinegar 
6 pounds beef short ribs or lamb shoulder with bone sliced into 3 inch pieces
3 banana leaves from a package, thawed if frozen or 11 inch pieces of Parchment paper
4 bay leaves

1) Fill a 2 quart saucepan halfway with water and bring to a high simmer or boil.
2) Meanwhile slit the chillies lengthwise, then stem them, de-seed them and de-vein them.
3) Add the chilies to the boiling water and remove from heat and let stand until they are tender and a bright reddish tone- approx. 10 minutes. 
4)  Toast the Annatto and the Cumin seeds in a dry small heavy skillet over medium heat, stirring until fragrant  and a shade darker in color. 
5) Transfer to a bowl to cool and then grind the seeds to a powder in grinder.
6) Transfer the chillies to a blender with a slotted spoon and then add 1 1/2 cups of soaking liquid, the ground seeds, garlic, vinegar and 1 tablsp of salt to taste approx. 
7) Blend until smooth at least 2 minutes.
8)  Now pour the salsa into a large shallow container  and let cool to room temperature. Approx 10 minutes ..
9)  Sprinkle the meat with 2 tsps of salt, to taste and then add this sauce and turn the meat to coat well and using tongs, marinate the meat (the chilies stain hands !) so use thongs or gloves. Marinate for at least 6 to 8 hours. 
10)  PREHEAT OVEN TO 350 Farenheit with a rack in middle.
11) HOLDING THE BANANA LEAF, DRAG THE LEAF SLOWLY OVER A BURNER ON MEDIUM HIGH HEAT UNTIL IT BECOMES SHINIER and repeat this on the other side of leaf. REPEAT FOR ALL THE BANANA LEAVES.
12) SLICE OFF THE ROUGH EDGES FROM THE LEAVES.
13) TAKE A PIECE OF ALUMINUM FOIL, AND ARRANGE THE MEAT IN THE CENTER OF EACH LEAF AND USE SOME OF THE SALSA ON TOP OF THE MEAT ( 2 OR 3 PIECES OF MEAT PER LEAF).
14) FOLD THE FOUR SIDES OF THE LEAF TO ENCLOSE THE MEAT.
15) PLACE THE WRAPS WITH THE BAYLEAVES AND MEAT AND SALSA IN THE FOIL IN A LARGE BAKING PAN AND BAKE ADDING WATER IF NECESSARY TO THE PAN FOR 2 1/2 HOURS. 
16)  DO NOT DISCARD THE FOIL, JUST  THE BAY LEAVES.
17) TASTE TEST THE MEAT TO YOUR LIKING. IF YOU PREFER LONGER BAKING TIME, THEN RE-WRAP AND PLACE BACK IN OVEN. 

SERVE WITH LONG GRAIN WHITE RICE.

Posted By:  Margaux Cintrano
26 / 11 / 2021.



 


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote HistoricFoodie Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 November 2021 at 06:12
Sounds good, Margi.  A couple of questions though:

Do you really mean 3 tablespoons of annatto seeds? That makes an awful lot of achiote, and would likely result in a deep red, rather than the bright orange typical of these sorts of dishes.

Ditto the salt quantity. That sounds like an awful lot. 

I'm intrigued with the double wrapping.  That's a common technique for Central American tamales, because they boil them (instead of steaming, as in Mexico).  The banana leaves are the actual wrapper, and the foil forms a water-proof outer wrap. 

In this case, it would be the opposite; the foil prevents the little liquid involved from the sauce, from escaping.  Or so it seems.  

Anyway,  thanks for posting.  This is definately on my to try list.
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