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Practice Bread

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    Posted: 03 February 2011 at 12:21
For pretty close to about two years now, I've been working on perfecting Panne Siciliano, a crusty, hearty Sicilian yeast bread, with only reluctantly improving results. I've utilized all the tips, techniques and treasures from the pro's, yet this bread is even more elusive to me than a perfect loaf of French bread. Over time, I've tried again and again, refining the process, until I think I'm close to my target. Thus, I  planned another batch.
 
Now proper Panne Siciliano requires a three day process: on day one, the pre-ferment. On day two, the main dough is made and the bread formed. On day three it is baked. The long time required for the panne is so the dough takes on the rich developed flavor that only time will allow to bloom.
 
Yesterday I made my preferment. The ingredients are:
 
PRE-FERMENT
1 1/8  cups AP flour
1 1/8 cups bread flour
3/4 TSP salt
1 PKG regular yeast
1 cup water, about 90-100 F
 
Mixed them all together, kneaded and let rise. Once the initial rise is over, put in the fridge till the next day.
 
Okay everything was fine so far. For today, and the recipe, I needed Semolina flour. Ooops, we're out and I thought we had at least a pound or two left. The only place I can get this stuff locally was closed....and it has been closed since Tuesday when we got the snowstorm. With close to two feet of snow over an inch of ice, it won't be open for several more days, at least.
 
So, today I'm practicing techniques in making bread so the pre-ferment won't go to waste.
 
First up, autolyzing the flour. Julia Child speaks to this a bit in letting the flour rest and incorporate the water into the gluten, but not to the level I used today. A full 20 minutes together before anything else, and a lot more water too. Her technique is to let it sit with the proper ratio of water to flour. This time I'm trying a very liquidy mix, and I'll correct the ratio later. In the background you see my pre-ferment pieces getting ready for incorporation into the main dough-
 
 
Once autolysed, I added a teaspoon salt, then pre-ferment pieces, and mixed them in-
 
 
Something that I am learning to be very important, is proofing the yeast. Even though you buy the fresh grocery store name-brand stuff, sometimes the little yeasties are moribund and substandard little sacks of....(Ahem!) sloth. By proofing the yeast, I get a better, vibrant and energetic group of highly motivated creatures ready to fill my dough with gassy happiness. A dollop of honey in 3/4 cup of 100 F water (tepid. Body temp.) stirred well, then dump the yeast in. Within 5 minutes or so there should be energized foaminess.
 
Anyway, I added about an cup of flour to the mix, then the proofed yeast mixture-
 
 
Mixed that gently with a spatula. I added flour in small bits until the dough was dry enough to remove from the bowl without making a mess, but still very damp. I let it rest for a couple of minutes as I washed and dried the bowl-
 
 
Using Julia's technique, I gently folded the dough over with my left hand, and used a spatula to fold over the right sides. Every set of folds I sprinkled a bit of flour in order to get the proper consistency. Now, I am not using a recipe here, so I am practicing the dough-techniques. I am sure I will come out with some fine bread today, however I want to familiarize myself with the specifics and details that I have been practicing off and on for so long.
 
I kneaded this dough by hand for 6 minutes, then let it rest for 5, then kneaded it again for 1 minute. I sprayed the bowl with PAM and put the doughball in. Into the oven it went with the light on. It was still residually warm from cinnamon rolls this morning, so all was good. In a few hours, I'll pull it out, form it and set it for the second rising. More pictures will be shared.....
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TasunkaWitko Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 February 2011 at 12:33
hey, john - looks like a good effort so far. as you know, i made pane siciliano once and i had what i judged to be very good results on the first try. the flavour and texture are truly unique and i can't say too many good things about this easy-yet-scrumptioous bread.
 
your words regarding autolyzing are spot on. i have found excellent results with this technique, which is as simple as can be: do NOTHING for 20 minutes after introducing the water to the flour.
 
one point of interest - i can't remember if you were aware of this, but while i prefer the round "bread-stone" loaf when making bread, pane siciliano is traditionally made in a scolling S-spiral known as the Eye of Saint Lucia (below, on the LEFT):
 
 
might be worth attempting?
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Guests Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 February 2011 at 12:59
Hey, never ever heard of the S-shaped loaf, but will try it out on my bread today. I do have parchment paper, so transfering those shapes to the baking stone won't be an issue.  I also have the sesame seeds, just don't know what happened to the semolina~ Unhappy No worries, for certain the bread will be good, and have some nice Italian leftovers for supper to enjoy it with, too.
 
Glad to hear your experience with the autolyzing is good...I've always suspected that is critical, and much more of a benefit than let on with those short five-minute times.
 
Right now the dough looks HUGE, so I'm going to degass that baby a bit and then make some loaves. More pics later.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TasunkaWitko Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 February 2011 at 13:15
aye, the sesame seeds i am not so sure about (as far as "tradition" goes). might be worth a little research when you post this one up ~
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Guests Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 February 2011 at 14:34
The dough was nice, soft and pillowy...portending airy bread. That's good.
 
 
Cut the dough into four pieces, and rolled them out one at a time into long baguette shaped rolls that will allow for s-shaping-
 
 
With a couple curves and bends, we have a nicely shaped loaf.  These were then placed on parchment paper then on baking sheets to rise-
 
 
I painted the loaves with warm water and a pastry brush, then sprinkled some toasted sesame seeds on top. Covered with some baker's towels and left to rise until baking time.
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TasunkaWitko Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 February 2011 at 14:36
oh, man ~ looking very nice!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Guests Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 February 2011 at 19:26
I made two types of finished bread, one as-is straight from the oven-
 
 
And one painted with melted farm-butter using a paintbrush-(Yes I made 4 loaves total...Big smile
 
 
The crumb was delicious and loose and wonderfully tasty-
 
 
And the loaf definitely showed the benefit of a long-rising pre-ferment incorporated into a very moist autolyzed dough....nice airy bread.
 
The proofed yeast and autolyzed flour certainly help in making good breads; no doubt about it.
 
This was an excellent example of using the proper techniques when making bread-
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TasunkaWitko Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 February 2011 at 20:12
 judging by results, i would call it an unqualified success - very excellent-looking bread and i can almost taste it through the screen ~ for sure, i can smell it!
 
it looks like, other than the preferment, the rest is the typical flour, yeast/honey and salt - and of course water (the flour and water were the parts you were experimenting with, as well as the autolyzing, i assume). if i missed anything let me know, because it seems to me that, practice or not, this is one worth doing again ~
 
as it evolves, let us know because i think this might become your signature bread.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hoser Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 February 2011 at 04:27
Isn't it amazing what a simple brush with some butter can do for the end effect on a loaf of bread?
Wonderful job John, sometimes you really need to just experiment and get it in your mind how you're going to use technique from that point on.
It sure looks like you are on the right track my friend...Bravo!Clap
Go ahead...play with your food!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Guests Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 February 2011 at 18:30
Dave, you got that right on the button! A painting of butter makes the bread a hundred times prettier, and then, also, tastier when you add salt on top.
 
I'm in the process of experimenting with bread-processes. Autolyzing, specifically right now. I started some bread this morning and autolyzed the initial dough (prior to final flour addition and kneading) for 45 minutes. This was in a cold and dry kitchen, and the development of the dough was much better than I was used to, and the finished bread lovely.
 
Here are the 2 loaves. I baked both (one by one) on parchment paper, though only the last one has it underneath. 
 
 
The first loaf fell a bit when I razored it and wasn't as pretty, so I only painted the second one with butter and sprinkled it with kosher salt.
 
 
The crumb was very, very nice and chewy. I was happy! Nice airyness, especially since I'd used olive oil to lubricate the bowl, and was overgenerous covering the doughball to boot. Turned out to be more of an Italian bread than anything else, but still very nice.
 
 
I'm learning that super-long autolyzing is one of the secrets to home-made artisa breads. Why the "major players and bakers" don't publicize this is beyond me. Maybe they want to keep their secrests intact. Who knows.
 
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