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Hollandaise sauce made with "raw" cold butter??

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ChrisFlanders View Drop Down
Chef's Apprentice
Chef's Apprentice

Joined: 01 March 2012
Location: Flanders
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    Posted: 19 May 2012 at 07:03

There may be a few very strong opinions about making Hollandaise and similar sauces, based on adding butter(fat) to eggs. A few years ago, I always added melted butter to the egg mixture, until a very good chef said he prefered to add cold butter instead of melted or clarified butter, simply because this method gave him a sauce in which the buttertaste came out best. It's absolutely true, so since then I do the same for Hollandaise and all derivates like béarnaise etc.

Let me also add that I'm using a lot less butter than before, which makes the sauce a lot more acceptable healthwise. It's also less fuss to make, since you don't need to melt any butter. And, it even tastes better with less butter added! I prefer to use a very good "raw" butter, straight from the farm.

So now there are 3 options to make a Hollandaise; using melted butter, using clarified butter and using cold butter. I wonder how all of you make a Hollandaise.

Here's my version of Hollandaise; to serve 2-3 people, I use 2 eggyolks and 3 good tbsp of plain cold water and a small dash of white wine vinegar to start. Firstly, whisk that together "cold" for a short while, without any heating.

You may prefer to use a "bain-marie", I put it straight on a very low fire. Whisk continuously making "8" shapes, often turning your pot around gently, so you reach all corners of the pot and taking the pot on-and-off the fire so you don't end up with scrambled eggs. When all liquid is gone, which is the stadium where the eggs have provided their binding capacity to nicely emulsify with the liquid, take away from the fire and whisk 3,4 or 5 cubes of cold butter in. I use only 3 cubes, the cubes being maximum 3/4 inch big. The cubes will melt quickly into the mixture. Add a good squeeze of fresh lemon juice, s&p. You're done!

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