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From Time-Life's Foods of the World - American Cooking: The Northwest:
The giant kelp, a tubular seaweed 20 to 30 feet long that floats in Washingotn's Strait of Juan de Fuca, has long fascinated John and Dorothy Conway, who run a Port Townsend Restaurant called the Farm House....The talk of wild food reminded Dorothy of her kelp pickles. She went over to the salad table and came back with a bowl of honey-coloured transluscent rings, each about an inch across. I had heard Alaskans tell how they peel and slice tubes of giant kelp and preserve the rings in a sweet-sour pickle solution, and I asked Dorothy whether she used the same kind of kelp. "I do, and I get it right out there," she said pointing to the water, "but I have my own recipe." I tried one of the rings; it was crisp and spicy, rather like a pickled watermelon rind, but with a coppery tang all its own.... |
Time Life went on to say that Dorothy made her kep pickles by retrieving the kelp from the water:
The thick bulb is cut away and discarded:
And the tube of kelp is skinned of it's tough outer covering:
Then the kelp is sliced into rings:
At this point, the seaweed is ready to be pickled, but unfortunately, Dorothy didn't share her recipe. All that is mentioned is that the rings are steeped in a pickling liquid consisting of water, sugar and vinegar, with a melange of spices known only to Dorothy. "After steeping for several weeks, the rings will be as crisp and refreshing as a watermelon pickle, but with a subte marine flavour all their own."
After doing an internet search (during which I actually found http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=port%20townsend%20farm%20house%20restaurant%20kelp%20pickles&source=web&cd=1&ved=0CB8QFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fnews.google.com%2Fnewspapers%3Fnid%3D888%26dat%3D19720720%26id%3DZuZQAAAAIBAJ%26sjid%3D6mADAAAAIBAJ%26pg%3D7118%2C4639829&ei=0kOgTuGbNJHTiALtlOB-&usg=AFQjCNGL_IxycGEjBQw-B76pgdiCbhvhrQ - a reference to Dorothy's kelp pickles in a 1972 printing of Florida's St. Petersburg Times - an article written by none other than James Beard, no less), I found this write-up and recipe for kelp pickles - I'm sure it's not exactly the same as Dorothy's but it does look good ~
From Langdon Cook's http://fat-of-the-land.blogspot.com/2011/09/pickled-kelp.html - Fat of the Land Blog :
http://fat-of-the-land.blogspot.com/2011/09/pickled-kelp.html - Pickled Kelp
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Recently I camped out with the family at Deception Pass State Park, one of the true gems in Washington State's park system. While beach combing and fishing for humpies, we came across a six-foot long strand of http://pendiva.com/seaweed/bull-kelp/ - bull whip kelp (Nereocyctis luetkeana) that had washed ashore. The kelp looked like it was still in good shape (it didn't have the white splotches characteristic of an over-the-hill specimen), so we bagged it up and took it home.
Healthy kelp forests are the old-growth stands of the ocean. A hundred feet or more in length from sea floor to surface, they support a diversity of life. I've seen this diversity first-hand while free-diving in Puget Sound. Lingcod, greenling, and rockfish forage among the kelp forests; [river] otters, seals, and other critters seek refuge from predators; and countless invertebrates make their homes there.
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Our find immediately put me in mind of Jennifer Hahn and her wonderfully useful and poetic http://www.amazon.com/Pacific-Feast-Cooks-Foraging-Cuisine/dp/1594851026/ - Pacific Feast: A Cook's Guide to West Coast Foraging and Cuisine . Hahn calls seaweeds the "most nutritious vegetables on Earth"—and the only vegetables that dance: "They jump and jerk to the bass thunder of waves. They shimmy and shake to the ebb and flood tide." I just knew she would have a good recipe for the kelp. Sure enough, when we got home I thumbed through my copy and found this recipe for pickled kelp.
I've eaten plenty of kelp pickles over the years but never actually made them myself. For this recipe, imagine a typical bread-and-butter pickle, with its crunch and spicy sweetness, and add to it a subtle hint of the sea. After tasting these pickles, you'll look at a seaweed-strewn beach in a whole new way.
I cut Jennifer's recipe in half since my strand of kelp was on the small side, and I probably could have cut it in half again.
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2 cups kelp rings 1 1/2 cups white vinegar 1 clove garlic, diced 1 1/2 tbsp pickling spice 2 tsp turmeric 1 1/2 cups white sugar 1/2 red onion, cut in crescents
1. Make the brine. Mix vinegar, garlic, spices, and white sugar in a sauce pan. Set aside. 2. Cut the kelp into foot-long sections. Peel each section with a potato peeler. 3. Slice each peeled section into 1/4-inch rings. 4. Add the kelp rings into the brine and set aside for 2 hours, stirring occasionally. 5. After brining for 2 hours, boil contents for 5 minutes. 6. Spoon kelp rings and juice into canning jars and process in hot water bath for 10 minutes.
The pickles cure in three weeks, although we couldn't wait; after just a week in the jar they tasted darn good and brought back fine memories of a sunny long weekend at the beach.
Note: check state and local regulations before harvesting seaweeds. In Washington it's only legal to harvest beached bull whip kelp; cutting a living kelp stipe is illegal. |
If anyone has access to kelp and tries this, I'd really like to know how it goes ~ it looks like an interesting one!
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