2013 Backyard Garden
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Category: The Best Foods You Can Get - Your Own
Forum Name: Gardening
Forum Discription: A place to discuss the best ways to grow your own ingredients.
URL: http://foodsoftheworld.ActiveBoards.net/forum_posts.asp?TID=3426
Printed Date: 26 March 2026 at 20:33
Topic: 2013 Backyard Garden
Posted By: TasunkaWitko
Subject: 2013 Backyard Garden
Date Posted: 03 April 2013 at 10:04
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Well, here I go again ~ last year, the weeds defeated me, but this year, I've got some ideas about that.
I bought one of those "garden starters" that look like this:
 My garden space is an estimated 18 feet by 30-something feet (I always treat it as if it is 36 feet, but it is probably a bit shorter). I want to leave enough space between the rows and (possibly) the larger individual plants (tomatoes etc) to run a roto-tiller to help with the weeding, so I am assuming 6 large plants per row. For smaller things, such as any carrots, radishes, beets, onions etc that I might plant. I'll just run a full row.
I'm going to attempt a "matrix" here, looking at the garden from the east:
(TOP)
W
C H A I N - L I N K F E N C E 01 02 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 (LEFT) S 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 N (RIGHT) 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 61 62 63 64 65 66 67 68 69 70 71 72 E (BOTTOM) In the past, I would always just run "top-to-bottom" rows of something, perhaps splitting one or two rows in half. but when it came time to get things done, it always seems that I would run into trouble, so this year I will see about organising the space into "blocks." This way, I can have things I want in an area, and not be limited to the confines of strict rows; also, perhaps it will help for those things that need pollination - who knows. It can't be any worse than what I've been doing in the past, and might help; if it doesn't work, there's always next year!
My 3 sisters patch last year was too big for me to manage, so this year, I intend to cut it down from a 6x6 plot to 4x3, in the hopes that I can keep up with it. The 4x3 assumes 12 corn plants with 12 bean plants running up the corn and 6 winter squash-type/pumpkin mounds interspaced, probably in the southwest corner of the matrix (45, 46, 47, 48, 57, 58, 59, 60, 69, 70, 71 and 72).
Running north from that point, I'd like to run a short "horizontal" row (33, 34, 35 and 36) of some Spanish (or Possibly Italian) peppers I have - I believe called "sheepnose" peppers; the package shows them as fairly roundish and they look to be of small-to medium size - they are red and slightly wrinkly-looking; perhaps some kind of cherry pepper - and the label says "peperone piccante a cuore."
Above that (21, 22, 23 and 24), I'll do a short row of Spanish peppers; the label only says "pimiento cereza grande."
Above that, I'd like a longer row of 6 cucumber plants (7, 8, 9, 10, 11 and 12) for http://foodsoftheworld.activeboards.net/hungarian-sun-pickles_topic2367.html" rel="nofollow - and http://foodsoftheworld.activeboards.net/our-recipe-for-kosher-dill-pickles_topic3251.html" rel="nofollow - ; I intend to use the chain-link fence as a trellis.
Below the "south" end of the cucumbers, there will be space for two rows of 5 plants each (19, 20, 31, 32, 43, 44, 55, 56, 67 and 68). This should be a great place for some green peas.
Okay, that covers half the garden (the north half)....
I'll use some space at the "top" along the chain link fence for 3 zucchini plants (1, 2 and 3), using the fence as a trellis, if needed.
The three corresponding spots at the "bottom (61, 62 and 63) will be mounds for watermelon, honeydew melon and cantaloupe/muskmelon, respectively.
Tomatoes - the whole reason I love to garden, and the main reason I keep trying! Starting at the south, "left" end, I'll run a verticle line of cherry tomatoes (13, 25, 37 and 49); next, a line of Cherokee purple tomatoes and/or some other similarly-sized tomato, depending on what I can get (14, 26, 38 and 50); I may do a little mixing and matching here. Then, I'll run a line of San Marzanos (15, 27, 39 and 51). Finally, I'll also plant some yellow pear tomatoes (4, 16 and 28), since the Beautiful Mrs. Tas likes them.
A friend sent some Hungarian Pepper seeds; the kind that are used to make paprika, so I will be giving these a try, as well this year. I'll plant six (5, 6, 17, 18, 29 and 30) and see how they do.
I "think" I still have some Anasazi beans; if so, I'll plant three (42, 54 and 56) and see if I can make them grow.; if I don't have any more, I'll get some Jacob's cattle beans and give them a shot.
Somewhere, interspaced between some rows or perhaps somewhere along the perimetre, I'll transplant the onions that seem to pop up every year, and will most likely add more. Another thing we will try is kohlrabi, and I might also try some other "root" crops or green, leafy lettuce-type things.
Here is the "key" to the matrix....
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Replies:
Posted By: HistoricFoodie
Date Posted: 03 April 2013 at 10:48
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Let us know how those peat buttons work out for you, Ron. Most serious gardeners who have tried them, despise them. Among other problems: The mesh netting that holds them together is not biodegradable. So, often, plant roots cannot grow through it at all. And even when they can, the mesh gets left behind. I recommend that when you transplant you slash the net once or twice on the sides, and once on the bottom, to give the roots a break. I also have to take you to task, my friend. You keep describing your garden space as small. Considering that the typical home garden is 200 square feet or less, yours is gigantic. We're talking more than twice the space typically used. |
Posted By: TasunkaWitko
Date Posted: 03 April 2013 at 10:53
Okay, no more complaints about a small garden! 
I've used the peat buttons before, and find them to be an "adequate" way to get started - I like peat pots a little better, but Melissa got me this, so it will be alright. We usually rip the bottoms out of these and also the peat pots, but I'll be sure to also slit the sides as well ~ might even remove the mesh altogether, since I usually try to transplant the seedlings into peat pots when they get a little bigger ~  ------------- If you are a visitor and like what you see, please http://foodsoftheworld.activeboards.net/registration_rules.asp?FID=0" rel="nofollow - click here and join the discussions in our community! |
Posted By: TasunkaWitko
Date Posted: 03 April 2013 at 13:53
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Note - In addition to the backyard garden, I'm also drawing up plans for a http://foodsoftheworld.activeboards.net/2013-planter-garden-herbs-etc_topic3428.html" rel="nofollow - planter garden , which will include herbs and a few other things.------------- If you are a visitor and like what you see, please http://foodsoftheworld.activeboards.net/registration_rules.asp?FID=0" rel="nofollow - click here and join the discussions in our community! |
Posted By: TasunkaWitko
Date Posted: 03 April 2013 at 15:48
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ok, I think I have it all laid out, with changes made. The matrix above is the stuff I will start in the starter kit, but As noted I will also be planting between some rows and/or around the perimetre, including onions, kohlrabi and possibly some other root vegetables and/or leafy-green lettuce-type stuff.
Looking forward to it! ------------- If you are a visitor and like what you see, please http://foodsoftheworld.activeboards.net/registration_rules.asp?FID=0" rel="nofollow - click here and join the discussions in our community! |
Posted By: gonefishin
Date Posted: 03 April 2013 at 19:05
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It's all looking good, Ron! Good job planning! ------------- Enjoy The Food! |
Posted By: TasunkaWitko
Date Posted: 04 April 2013 at 09:00
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Thanks, Dan - every year it seems as if my plans are pretty good, but my execution is awful. We get some really good tomatoes and a few other things, but I'm pretty sure it's probably only about 10% or less of what we COULD get.
I'm hoping to improve this year. ------------- If you are a visitor and like what you see, please http://foodsoftheworld.activeboards.net/registration_rules.asp?FID=0" rel="nofollow - click here and join the discussions in our community! |
Posted By: TasunkaWitko
Date Posted: 15 April 2013 at 13:58
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Some important dates will be catalogued here; my dad gave them to me, based on about 40 years of gardening in our area of north-central Montana:
Peppers and Tomatoes - start these by about March 20th; my dad's birthday is 19 March, so that's a good way to remember.
Cucumbers, squash, watermelons, and most other vegetables: Start right around may 1st; my youngest son's birthday is 28 April, and that's a good way to remember.
I'll add to this list as I learn more; keep in mind this is for my area only, and it probably doesn't take too much change in latitude for those dates to change.
Also, I'm making a couple of minor alterations to the matrix above - more this evening or tomorrow. ------------- If you are a visitor and like what you see, please http://foodsoftheworld.activeboards.net/registration_rules.asp?FID=0" rel="nofollow - click here and join the discussions in our community! |
Posted By: HistoricFoodie
Date Posted: 15 April 2013 at 14:09
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Whatever works in your area is the correct way, Ron. Something much of the garden literature misses. FWIW, we use the word "start" when talking about setting seed indoors for later transplant. Otherwise we use the term "direct sowing." Tomatoes are started 6-8 weeks before the average last frost in your area. Peppers are started 8-10 weeks. Cucurbits are, traditionally, direct sown as soon as all danger of frost is past. However, they have joined the ranks of veggies which, in the past, were not started ahead of time because they suffer severe root stock. Many root veggies are also being started, nowadays, whereas in the past they weren't. Generally speaking, when I pre-start things like cucurbits I do so in either newspaper (preferred) or peat pots, so that the whole pot gets transplanted. This reduces root shock. And I start them no more than three weeks before transplant. In my area, last frost is May 10, and I date everything from that date. |
Posted By: TasunkaWitko
Date Posted: 15 April 2013 at 14:17
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>>>FWIW, we use the word "start" when talking about setting seed indoors for later transplant. Otherwise we use the term "direct sowing."<<<
Yep!
 From what I've seen, our last frost seems to be around 15 May, give or take.
I'm going to be investing in a few peat pots - I have some left over frm last year ~ or, my son can help me make newspaper pots. I'm sure instructions for these are easy and widely avaialble, but it would be nice to have them here at FotW, too!
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Posted By: HistoricFoodie
Date Posted: 15 April 2013 at 15:49
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Newspaper pots are easy to make, and cost nothing. I've started a new thread with instructions for those interested. |
Posted By: TasunkaWitko
Date Posted: 15 April 2013 at 19:39
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thanks, brook! ------------- If you are a visitor and like what you see, please http://foodsoftheworld.activeboards.net/registration_rules.asp?FID=0" rel="nofollow - click here and join the discussions in our community! |
Posted By: TasunkaWitko
Date Posted: 15 April 2013 at 22:39
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Well, because of the dates posted above, the future of the matrix is hanging in the balance this year ~ no worries, though, because we are moving forward here ~ I started some tomatoes (9 yellow pear, 12 sweet cherry, 6 Cherokee Purple, 3 Brandywine and 9 San Marzano) and peppers (3 Italian, 3 Spanish and 9 Hungarian) with my sons Micheal and Roger this evening. We had a few peat pots left over from last year, and we also made some newspaper pots as described by Brook. We planted 3 seeds in each pot, on the theory that at least one will sprout and if all do, we can transplant to more newspaper pots. I still have some Phillipine peppers to plant that I got from Rod, but I want to set up a special area for those. I realise this is a little late to start for our area (according to the dates provided by dad, 20 March would probably have been better to start), but it's been a long month as we had to re-arrange our schedules etc. Does anyone have any ideas to help them out as they get started so that they have a better chance to thrive? I don't have a heating pad or special lights, so those options are out. ------------- If you are a visitor and like what you see, please http://foodsoftheworld.activeboards.net/registration_rules.asp?FID=0" rel="nofollow - click here and join the discussions in our community! |
Posted By: HistoricFoodie
Date Posted: 16 April 2013 at 06:34
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You don't need special lights for seed starting, Ron. Plain, cold-white flourescents will do. As the plants emerge, keep the lights no more than an inch or two from their tops. If you don't have one, get a cheap timer for the lights---you want them to stay on about 16 hours. So long as the seed trays are warmish you should be ok. Technically, peppers like it around 85F to germinate. But they'll do fine lower than that---it just takes them longer to get going. I keep my seed-starting room at about 70F. |
Posted By: Margi Cintrano
Date Posted: 16 April 2013 at 07:05
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Tas and Brook, Very interesting thread gents. What is a " sister " ? M.C.D. ------------- Volamos a Mediterraneo, un paraiso que conquista su gente u su cocina. |
Posted By: HistoricFoodie
Date Posted: 16 April 2013 at 08:04
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We planted 3 seeds in each pot, on the theory that at least one will sprout We used to say, about seedlings, "one for the Goddess, one for the critters, and one to grow." So would set three times the seed we needed. But the fact is, the idea of planting three seeds was originated by the seed companies in order to sell more seed. There's really no reason for it. Commercial seed has to meet federal germination standards. They vary by veggie type, but the lowest is something like 73%. And it's rare that germination is as low as the standard. With properly home-saved seed, germination should average around 90%. So, basically, if you set 10-15% more seed than you need, you should get the number of plants you want. Any more than that and you usually wind up giving, or throwing away, the extras. |
Posted By: Margi Cintrano
Date Posted: 16 April 2013 at 08:28
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Thank you Brook ... Interesting philosophy ... One for the Diosa = Goddess, one for the Fauna, and one to grow !!! Very nice idiom or saying ! MCD ------------- Volamos a Mediterraneo, un paraiso que conquista su gente u su cocina. |
Posted By: TasunkaWitko
Date Posted: 16 April 2013 at 08:30
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Hey, Brook ~ that's good information to know, about the germination etc. Thanks ~
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Posted By: TasunkaWitko
Date Posted: 14 May 2013 at 08:37
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Well, the matrix is out, for this year. Incorporating different types of plants that start at different times was the folly of my first attempt. I'll know next year to do it a little differently! However, last night, my youngest son and I got our 'melon- and squash-type" plants started. We used the starter "greenhouse" kit above, and started 12 rows. This worked out well, since we had 12 different species of plants to start. I don't remember all of the specific species/varieties, but we planted small and large pumpkins, small and large watermelons, cantaloupe, honeydew melon, zucchini, acorn squash, spaghetti squash, cushaw (?) green-striped squash, cucumbers and (our long-shot plant) eggplant, which should have been planted with the tomatoes/peppers. We'll see how it goes. We watered and expanded the "peat disks" and planted 2 seeds in each one, except for the large pumpkin seeds, which only got one seed in each disk. I'm hoping all disks germinate, and we'll put at least three or four of everything in the ground, giving any extras to my dad. When actual planting time comes, the tomatoes, peppers and the ones we planted last night will go into the ground, along with corn, beans, peas, opnions, and (if I remember correcly) brussels sprouts. we might also try some root vegetables such as carrots, beets etc. as well as some leafy green stuff such as cabbage and some type of lettuce.
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Posted By: HistoricFoodie
Date Posted: 14 May 2013 at 09:16
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Ron, do not attempt saving seed from all those squash. They will sure to be crossed. I've often said that peppers are the sluts of the garden; they'll cross if you even look at them cockeyed. Squash runs them a close second, though. You can get away with planting different species of squash. Those won't cross with each other. But squash of the same species will. I'll have to look up the others, but, off the top of my head, I know that the zucchini and acorn squash are the same species. As to the other veggies, the two watermelons will cross. So, too, will the cantaloupe and honeydew. |
Posted By: TasunkaWitko
Date Posted: 14 May 2013 at 09:20
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That's good to keep in mind, Brook - thanks! It probably wouldn't make a difference if I plant them at opposite ends of the garden, I'm guessing? The acorn was going to go into the 3 sisters patch that I'll attempt, and the zucchini would be on the other side of the garden, probably. ------------- If you are a visitor and like what you see, please http://foodsoftheworld.activeboards.net/registration_rules.asp?FID=0" rel="nofollow - click here and join the discussions in our community! |
Posted By: HistoricFoodie
Date Posted: 14 May 2013 at 09:23
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Ron, I am sending you, via snail mail, a copy of a chart developed by the folks at UC-Davis. It will tell you when to start seed of various veggies, and when to transplant it, based on your frost dates. This will let you maximize your garden productivity, because you can plan succession plantings based on relative hardiness. For instance, onion plants can be put in the ground as much as six weeks before last frost. If you start your own from seed, you do that ten weeks before transplant date. For me that means we set onion seed in January, for transplant in March. Or order plants from Dixondale for March delivery. If you want, there's no reason you can't scan the chart and post it here. Whether or not you do that, be sure and make a couple of copies, keeping a blank one as a master for future use. |
Posted By: TasunkaWitko
Date Posted: 14 May 2013 at 09:35
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Much appreciated, Brook - I'll definitely put it to good use, and should be able to easily scan it for members of the forum. I got to thinking about the onions. Every year we have "leftovers" from the year before that come up. Planting them (and garlic) in the fall would make good sense. The back of my mind worries about the 40 below zero and frozen-solid ground up here for 6 monhts, but evidently the onions that spring up every spring don't seem to mind ~ lol It's funny - when May First came around (the time we SHOULD have been starting the ones we started last night), my youngest son kept looking for reasons to not be able to help with it. When we finally got started last night, he had a great time, and took charge of the project, picking out what to plant and so forth. I'm hoping he gets the bug. One thing that is going to help a LOT is that, in a few weeks, we'll have our own roto-tiller, rather than relying on borrowing one, so I can do things more the way I want to, when I want to. This will be a big factor in things such as fall tilling and planting etc., not to mention getting an early start, rather than relying on when my dad's done with his.
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Posted By: HistoricFoodie
Date Posted: 14 May 2013 at 12:49
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Common onions are pretty hardy, Ron, and just might survive over-winter. Garlic is all but impossible to kill. Much of it originated in places like Siberia, the Georgian Republic, the mountainous country of the Russo-Islamic Republics, etc. So I doubt you winters will even be noticed. Multiplying onions are supposed to be fall planted, just like garlic. And bunching onions are perennials, so, again, should have little trouble with your winters. |
Posted By: Melissa Mead
Date Posted: 26 May 2013 at 09:02
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My seeds arrived! http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000E7OYNI" rel="nofollow - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000E7OYNI I also have romaine lettuce, purple and yellow beans, peas, carrots, parsley, nasturtiums, and 2 tomato plants that I may have waited too long to transplant. ------------- Melissa http://carpelibris.wordpress.com/ - http://carpelibris.wordpress.com/ |
Posted By: Melissa Mead
Date Posted: 26 May 2013 at 10:59
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It looks like I have more seeds than I do pots. I know that tomatoes and basil are supposed to do well together. Can anything else share a pot?
------------- Melissa http://carpelibris.wordpress.com/ - http://carpelibris.wordpress.com/ |
Posted By: HistoricFoodie
Date Posted: 26 May 2013 at 16:58
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Young dill and tomatoes can be planted together, Melissa. But tomatoes and mature dill are antagonistic. Garlic can be planted with almost anything except legumes. And it has certain anti-pest properties as well. A lot depends on the size of your pots, or course. Other tomato companions include asparagus, carrots, celery, cucumbers, onions, parsley, and peppers. Bean companions include beet, the cabbage family, carrots, celery, chard, corn, cucumber, eggplant, peas, potatoes, radishes, and strawberries. On your too-tall tomatoes, just bury them as close to their crowns as possible in your pots. Wherever they are in the soil the stems will send out new roots, and the tops will continue to grow. |
Posted By: Melissa Mead
Date Posted: 26 May 2013 at 18:27
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Thanks! I really hope the tomato worms don't come back this year, and I actually get some tomatoes. My sister gave me some Orange Peruche plants, and I love those.
------------- Melissa http://carpelibris.wordpress.com/ - http://carpelibris.wordpress.com/ |
Posted By: HistoricFoodie
Date Posted: 27 May 2013 at 07:17
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A little late to do it this year, but borage repels the hornworm moths. Interplant it heavily (at least one plant between every two tomato plants.). In addition to being a great companion plant, borage is beautiful. And the flowers are edible. All in all, a perfect garden plant. |
Posted By: Melissa Mead
Date Posted: 27 May 2013 at 07:59
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We've had record cold, so maybe it would work. I haven't seen it for sale recently, though.
------------- Melissa http://carpelibris.wordpress.com/ - http://carpelibris.wordpress.com/ |
Posted By: TasunkaWitko
Date Posted: 28 May 2013 at 09:31
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hope that the planting goes well, melissa - i do believe we'll be tilling/planting this coming weekend ~ interesting discussion on plants that do well together and help each other out - it's great to know these things, in order to maximise a garden's potential! ------------- If you are a visitor and like what you see, please http://foodsoftheworld.activeboards.net/registration_rules.asp?FID=0" rel="nofollow - click here and join the discussions in our community! |
Posted By: Melissa Mead
Date Posted: 28 May 2013 at 19:27
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Thanks! Actually, I only HAVE 2 tomato plants. In the same pot. My garden is very small. ------------- Melissa http://carpelibris.wordpress.com/ - http://carpelibris.wordpress.com/ |
Posted By: jdonly1
Date Posted: 01 June 2013 at 16:40
We have been slack this year.I have only put in about 120 garlic plants so far got a heap more to put in.Need to plant snow peas,carrots onions(red and brown)and some beetroot |
Posted By: Melissa Mead
Date Posted: 15 June 2013 at 16:00
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The lettuce and purslane that I planted last weekend are sprouting already.
------------- Melissa http://carpelibris.wordpress.com/ - http://carpelibris.wordpress.com/ |
Posted By: Rod Franklin
Date Posted: 15 June 2013 at 19:49
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I'm glad to read that someone is growing purslane. I think it's one of those unheard of and underated vegetables. Used to pick it from between the rows of the vegetable garden where it just grew wild on it's own. Most would have just stomped on them and pulled them up as weeds.
------------- Hungry |
Posted By: Melissa Mead
Date Posted: 16 June 2013 at 07:19
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My mom weeds hers out. It tastes like grass to her. To me, it's succulent and lemony. It's supposed to be really nutritious, too. Maybe it's one of those things like cilantro, that people taste differently.
------------- Melissa http://carpelibris.wordpress.com/ - http://carpelibris.wordpress.com/ |
Posted By: gonefishin
Date Posted: 19 June 2013 at 16:03
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I hope everyones gardens are coming together... I am doing a very small garden this year (we almost didn't do one at all)...just a few tomatoes. Six at the community garden plot with one jalapeno and one serrano plant. Then two tomato plants in containers at home...also some herbs at home.  ------------- Enjoy The Food! |
Posted By: Effigy
Date Posted: 20 June 2013 at 03:14
| Tomorrow is garlic planting day for all south of the equator - just a head up. |
Posted By: HistoricFoodie
Date Posted: 20 June 2013 at 07:10
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Hmmmmmm? I would have guessed it was a hair late for that. What is the typical length and depth of your winter, Anne? In the U.S. we plant garlic in the fall. For instance, I usually shoot for Thanksgiving weekend, and that's considered late by most growers I know. Of course, garlic is very forgiving, and, so long as the ground can be worked, you can plant it. |
Posted By: Effigy
Date Posted: 21 June 2013 at 01:53
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We are sub tropical, traditional dates for Garlic in the North Island of NZ are: Plant on the shortest day, harvest on the longest. My garden is in fact still in the final act of autumn 2012, even though it is now mid winter 2013 - I even have an outdoor tomato that has valiantly tried to fruit in June. (I think the polar blast (Antarctic) that's happening outside right now will have reminded it that it was a summer plant) That said, last year we had the hardest drought since the sixties last summer. This weekend I will blanket my 12m x 6m vege garden with 4" organic sawdust. I will lime it in places first - our soil is clay based. I use the http://www.ca.uky.edu/gogreen/displays/SquareFootGardeningDBH.pdf" rel="nofollow - square meter approach. So the winter brassicas remain the 'alive' part of the garden. In short - it never snows here. We do get devastatingly violent hail, and in http://www.google.com/url?sa=D&q=https://niwa.co.nz/our-science/climate/information-and-resources/clivar/elnino&usg=AFQjCNH6TkOHb33GDl6zWu5loOIqF6uNug" rel="nofollow - el nina years we can get -2 -3C (in the early mornings only) for 6-8 weeks. We also get devastating salt spray. We are less than 200km from coast to coast
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Posted By: jdonly1
Date Posted: 21 June 2013 at 20:52
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250 garlic plants in now,about 50 of the purple variety Also just planted 20 red onions and 10 strawberry plants Still have to plant carrots,broccoli and some cauliflower  |
Posted By: TasunkaWitko
Date Posted: 21 June 2013 at 21:28
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sounds pretty good, jarrod!
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