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FotW's "Choucroute Day" - 29 September 2018

Printed From: Foods of the World Forum
Category: Europe
Forum Name: France
Forum Discription: Whether it is provincial peasant cooking or classic haute cuisine, this is the place to discuss the flavors of France.
URL: http://foodsoftheworld.ActiveBoards.net/forum_posts.asp?TID=5082
Printed Date: 26 March 2026 at 20:33


Topic: FotW's "Choucroute Day" - 29 September 2018
Posted By: TasunkaWitko
Subject: FotW's "Choucroute Day" - 29 September 2018
Date Posted: 22 August 2018 at 14:47
It recently came to my attention that there is going to be a "Choucroute Festival" in the Commune of Krautergersheim in Alsace, which is very near to my own ancestral Obersteinbach:

https://www.facebook.com/events/1791694354211144/





Krautergersheim, known as the "Choucroute Capital of the World," hosts the Choucroute Festival on the last Sunday of each September; indeed, the name Krautergersheim contains the word "kraut," which is the German word for "cabbage" and the source of Sauerkraut, which is the primary ingredient of the beloved and quintessential Alsatian dish, Choucroute, which in turn is the French word for Sauerkraut.

See how that all works out?

You can read more about Krautergersheim and its history here, if you'd like:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Krautergersheim

Anyway, I thought it would be fun to have a "Choucroute Day" here on FotW, where interested members could research, prepare and present their own take on Choucroute. We have some good information here on the forum regaring choucroute, as well as a few recipes that can be found here:

http://foodsoftheworld.activeboards.net/alsatian-choucroute_topic2658.html

There are also many other sources of information and recipes in books, on the internet and elsewhere.

Perhaps you are thinking to yourself, This looks like it contains a lot of special components or ingredients that I have no access to! Well, my reply to that is, so what? You can make what you can with what you have; in fact, I did exactly that a few years ago, and the results were pretty darn good:

http://foodsoftheworld.activeboards.net/my-first-attempt-at-srkrt-elssser_topic2784.html

I am guessing that with a little time to plan and prepare, I can make an even better version for FotW's Choucroute Day, and I just might set out to do that, using my own, home-made sauerkraut that I've fermented myself:

http://foodsoftheworld.activeboards.net/making-sauerkraut-with-farmsteadys-kraut-kit_topic4797.html

I won't be able to get all of the specialty sausages and meats that are called for, but I'm betting I can do pretty well with what I have, and I am sure that you could do the same, if you are so inclined.

So, what do you say?

Ron

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Replies:
Posted By: TasunkaWitko
Date Posted: 22 August 2018 at 16:08
To get everyone into the "Choucroute mindset," here's a neat little article, from Saveur's online Magazine:

Quote The Choucroute Route

A trip spent crisscrossing Alsace, reading literature to French coal miners and searching for an elusive plate of sauerkraut and sausage.

By Andrew Sean Greer
April 15, 2015

We were called les belles étrangers: the beautiful foreigners. Twelve American writers brought to France as part of a cultural exchange delivering foreign literature to rural communities. After we arrived in Paris, we were paired off and given our assignments: One set was sent to Corsica, another to Nice, another to Marseille. I was informed, however, that my partner had hurt his back. I would be traveling alone to…the director looked at his clipboard. “Mulhouse,” he said. Pronounced “mool-OOZE.” Somewhere in Alsace. I was introduced to my chaperone—a pretty English-free Algerian girl named Sylvie—and off we went to the German border, to Mulhouse, a wind-harried industrial town once known as the “Manchester of France.” There I was introduced to the Provincial Librarian, a weary, bald, monkish man. I say monkish because, though fluent in English, he seemed to have taken a vow of silence, and in this silence I was taken to dinner. Here, at last, I felt hope. One of my earliest childhood memories is of an Alsatian restaurant that served choucroute garnie, a rustic dish of sauerkraut, bacon, sausage, and potatoes. I ordered it in my halting French, but the Librarian, finally speaking, intervened. “No no,” he explained, “this is not the place for choucroute.” Obediently, I sat back. But I vowed I would have my choucroute.

I looked at Sylvie and the Librarian and asked: "Choucroute?" They shook their heads: not the place for choucroute.

Early the next morning, Sylvie appeared in my hotel lobby and led me to where the Librarian waited, in his car, a Twingo, to bring me to Pulversheim. The road was bumpy, the sky gray; we passed through small towns of half-timbered buildings and brick church towers. Then to the library, where a number of local coal miners had gathered to hear me read from my novel. Dinner was in the town's sole restaurant. I looked at Sylvie and the Librarian and asked: “Choucroute?” They shook their heads: not the place for choucroute. The next day, I was taken via a winding road to a mountaintop in the Vosges where a blanket of fog erased a famous view. We stood beside the Twingo in silence as the wind whipped around us. Then down the mountain to Murbach, where we ate in the library itself, crammed into a kids-section table while a librarian unwrapped the cellophane from my slice of pâté. No choucroute. The next day, through roads so narrow the Provincial Librarian had to fold in the side mirrors, we arrived in medieval-looking Ensisheim. In a church shop I discovered an embroidered recipe for choucroute, with impossible ingredients like “lard du Strasbourg,” but alas, it was not for sale. After I had read to the coal miners there, the Provincial Librarian drove through the twilit forest to a crumbling monastery, where he stared longingly as though he belonged there; Sylvie had me take pictures of her in a new hat.

Guebwiller was next, in the pouring rain, and the Provincial Librarian drove so slowly that one motorcyclist after another passed us on the road. The librarians there were proud to show me “American desserts” they had made from online recipes; these turned out to be cupcakes. The next day, we reached Aspach-le-Bas through dark early-morning roads where the only lights in the towns we passed through were from bakers. I arrived in time to have a lunch of aspic and red wine with the high school principal. No choucroute. I read to miners in Ottmarsheim, Ungersheim, Houssen, Carspach, and Munchhouse. But it seemed that no place—not even hopeful-sounding Munchhouse—was the place for choucroute. When my time was finally over, and we drove south through the Pfaffenheim Forest back to Mulhouse, to a quaint little restaurant, I was once again defeated. I asked at last: “All right, so where is the place for choucroute?” The Librarian exchanged a baffled glance with Sylvie before telling me, as if it were too obvious to be uttered: “But of course, you have it at home!” I could have hit him with a sausage.

Except that he was right; it is best at home, I later learned. There is nothing quite like having guests arrive to a house perfumed with Riesling-simmered pork or sitting down to enjoy the tang of good mustard with pork-soaked sauerkraut, smoky bacon, and wursts at your own table. And you may, as I do, make a wall of sausages between the meats and potatoes, re-creating on a plate that German border, that map of Alsace, where I read to coal miners on one choucrouteless trip to rural France.

https://www.saveur.com/choucroute-trip-alsace-france


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Posted By: pitrow
Date Posted: 23 August 2018 at 09:46
I'm in. Basically we're looking for a dish centered around sauerkraut right? I need to get started on making some sauerkraut then, as mine is gone already. 

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Mike
http://lifeinpitrow.blogspot.com/" rel="nofollow - Life in PitRow - My often neglected, somewhat eccentric, occasionally outstanding blog


Posted By: Margi Cintrano
Date Posted: 23 August 2018 at 09:56
Definitely .. 

I shall do my Wild Trout Choucroute ..  It will be seasonal  with cooler temperatures.

I had once made home made sauerkraut and it came out really wonderful to my surprise ..  So shall get moving on it   !!!   




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Volamos a Mediterraneo, un paraiso que conquista su gente u su cocina.


Posted By: TasunkaWitko
Date Posted: 23 August 2018 at 09:56
Sauerkraut is certainly the base, Mike - from there, it is traditional to have various fresh and smoked pork products, or trout, depending on the version that is made; add a few aromatics and spices, some Riesling and that's the gist of it. The link that I posted above has several versions of the two main variations (trout or smoked pork), and I'll see if I can find another recipe or two, so that folks can have some ideas to play with.

A run to Leavenworth could be in order for some of those sausages etc!

Margi - do you know what species of trout are found in Alsace? We have several here...all are similar, of course.

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Posted By: pitrow
Date Posted: 23 August 2018 at 09:58
Originally posted by TasunkaWitko TasunkaWitko wrote:


A run to Leavenworth could be in order here, for some of those sausages etc!
 


lol... I'm pretty sure Cured will ship things. Wink And I know for sure the Cheesemonger will, though that's less relevant to this dish.

I will definitely do some research into a Choucroute plate and see what I can come up with.


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Mike
http://lifeinpitrow.blogspot.com/" rel="nofollow - Life in PitRow - My often neglected, somewhat eccentric, occasionally outstanding blog


Posted By: TasunkaWitko
Date Posted: 23 August 2018 at 10:31
Originally posted by pitrow pitrow wrote:

lol... I'm pretty sure Cured will ship things. Wink


Oh, bloody hell - I just took a look at their website:

https://curedbyvisconti.com/

The Beautiful Mrs. Tas is going to shoot me....   

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Posted By: pitrow
Date Posted: 23 August 2018 at 10:38
She might just shoot me as well for mentioning it.

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Mike
http://lifeinpitrow.blogspot.com/" rel="nofollow - Life in PitRow - My often neglected, somewhat eccentric, occasionally outstanding blog


Posted By: TasunkaWitko
Date Posted: 23 August 2018 at 10:41


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Posted By: TasunkaWitko
Date Posted: 23 August 2018 at 11:11
Just a quick note to those who are interested in this and want to make their own sauerkraut:

In reading around, looking at various recipes, one noted that if you're going to make your own sauerkraut, you want to get started 5 weeks in advance; I'm not sure if that time needs to be exact, but looking at the calendar, I'd say that the time is upon us....

With that in mind, I'll see if I can pick up a head of cabbage on the way home, tonight; or, I could wait until Saturday and get one at the Farmer's Market from some local Hutterites...now that would make some good sauerkraut!

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Posted By: gracoman
Date Posted: 23 August 2018 at 18:32
My 68 oz Fido jar sauerkraut just finished up this morning.  Been fermenting for 30+ days.
https://imageshack.com/i/pnQBnBKSj">

http://www.phoenixhelix.com/2013/05/08/no-fail-no-pound-sauerkraut/ - Fido jar sauerkraut is simple and amazing

Edited this post to reflect the proper fermentation time.  30+ days, not the 20+ I originally posted.


Posted By: Margi Cintrano
Date Posted: 24 August 2018 at 05:48
Gracoman, 

Looks marvelous  !!! 

Doing mine tomorrow for my  Wild  Trout Choucroute !!!

See you on the 29th of  September .. 

Do take a look at Ron´s thread on numerous récipes and the history of this dish which is amazingly fascinating ..

Have a great summer  !! 


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Volamos a Mediterraneo, un paraiso que conquista su gente u su cocina.


Posted By: pitrow
Date Posted: 24 August 2018 at 09:07
I need to hit the store this weekend and pickup some cabbage and other things to get my sauerkraut going so it's ready in time for this.

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Mike
http://lifeinpitrow.blogspot.com/" rel="nofollow - Life in PitRow - My often neglected, somewhat eccentric, occasionally outstanding blog


Posted By: TasunkaWitko
Date Posted: 24 August 2018 at 09:25
Looks very good, gMan! I looked though my own library and found a couple-three more recipes, which I will post as soon as I can on the recipe thread linked in the opening post. It is not entirely necessary, of course, since we have quite a few there and the gist of the concept is clear; however, my own feeling is that even too much information rarely hurts and usually helps.

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Posted By: TasunkaWitko
Date Posted: 27 August 2018 at 08:59
I started my sauerkraut on Saturday morning:

http://foodsoftheworld.activeboards.net/making-sauerkraut-with-farmsteadys-kraut-kit_topic4797.html

In 5 weeks (29 September), I plan to use it for this event, assuming all goes well.

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Posted By: Margi Cintrano
Date Posted: 02 September 2018 at 15:12
2 / 9:  


All is in their jars  !!  

How often should I  check these jars ?  

I cannot wait  !!





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Volamos a Mediterraneo, un paraiso que conquista su gente u su cocina.


Posted By: TasunkaWitko
Date Posted: 04 September 2018 at 09:42
Hi, Margi -

Based on my experience, if the jars are closed and refrigerated, the sauerkraut will last a very long time. I ate the last sauerkraut from my first batch almost a full year after I made it, and it tasted best of all; crisp with a very nice flavor.

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Posted By: Margi Cintrano
Date Posted: 04 September 2018 at 15:31
Ron, 

Wow .. I recall preparing this  a few years ago with my Paraguyan neighbor Lily ..  

We all had a ball .. and it was amazing !! 

Ok .. all should go well  !!!!!!!   


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Volamos a Mediterraneo, un paraiso que conquista su gente u su cocina.


Posted By: TasunkaWitko
Date Posted: 28 September 2018 at 09:57
Well - tomorrow's the day...I've got a little last-minute shopping to do, and then we will give this a try.

My Choucroute will be something of a combination of most of the recipes I posted on the thread; truth be told, those recipes themselves are pretty much the same, except for minor variations, here and there.

My selection of sausages is not what I would like it to be, so I'll do my best in that regard; we'll see how it turns out!

Ron

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Posted By: pitrow
Date Posted: 28 September 2018 at 10:18
Well I'm not sure if I'm going to be able to get to mine this weekend or not, it's shaping up to be a busy weekend but I'll try.

And to top it off the smoked trout I was planning on using had to go in the trash. Someone left the freezer door open overnight and most of the food in there had to be trashed. Luckily some of the stuff that was in the back and packed in there tightly was still frozen and safe but I'd say we lost roughly half of what was in there, including the trout. I did find a package of smoked salmon way in the back that was ok so I'll use that instead but it's not quite the same.


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Mike
http://lifeinpitrow.blogspot.com/" rel="nofollow - Life in PitRow - My often neglected, somewhat eccentric, occasionally outstanding blog


Posted By: TasunkaWitko
Date Posted: 28 September 2018 at 10:32
Yowch!

Mike, I'm sorry to hear that. Depending on how much you lost (say, a half of beef or pork or something) and your deductible, there might be a homeowner's claim in there for you, if it was a significant loss.

If you need to put it off for a week in order to get the time and the ingredients that you want, then absolutely no worries; the only reason I am able to do it this weekend is that we just had a payday.

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Posted By: Margi Cintrano
Date Posted: 28 September 2018 at 16:41


Tas, 

The fermented kraut with the Fermenting Kit (www.topproducts.com) came out wonderfully .. 

The Fresh Wild  Trout shall be delivered on  Sunday mid- morning ..

The Vet had to work Saturday 29th, so we are doing our ´s  for Sunday the 30th Lunch .. 

This also gives me a chance to prepare all the cookware and servingware plus get a couple of bottles of  Alsace Riesling at the International  Supermarket, El Corte Ingles. 

I bought  the Italian Pancetta which was sliced in strips ( prefer to bacon, as it is from the Italian Da Giuseppina and much better quality for this dish ..  )  

After sauté-ing the pancetta strips,   &  draining all the Grease of course,  and then preparing the shallot saute-ing in Evoo from France,  the shallot verses onion,  I shall wrap each strip of pancetta  in the filletes of sliced trout and roll them and seal with a tiny metal skewer. 

These shall be placed on the Kraut and then with a heavy plate and a piece of parchment paper in the the lid of the Dutch Oven,  placed on low slow flame until the fish is cooked through and the Kraut is very warm ..  (  Approx.  15 - 20 mins.  )  And of course the liquid for cooking is the  Riesling .. And 1 bottle for sipping over lunch .. Or 2  !!  

I shall write up the récipe Sunday ..  

And send  a couple of fotos ..  

Have a lovely weekend ..


     



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Volamos a Mediterraneo, un paraiso que conquista su gente u su cocina.


Posted By: TasunkaWitko
Date Posted: 01 October 2018 at 12:38
My Choucroute Day - 29 September 2018 - went pretty well; I was able to get it made, and in my opinion it tasted very good. The family seemed to enjoy it as well, so that is always a bonus.

I will try to give a detailed account here; it may ramble a bit and run over itself somewhat, but I figure that's better than missing any details. If anyone has any questions or needs any clarification, please do ask so that I can provide answers and clarify this post.

Notes on some of the ingredients:

I started with the sauerkraut that I had made exactly five weeks before from 1.5 average-sized heads of white cabbage; it spent 2 weeks fermenting in my closet, then three weeks "maturing" in the refrigerator. On the morning that I finally was ready to use it, it looked and smelled great! I tested a small bit, and found that it had a great crunch and it wasn't too salty at all, with a nice, rich sourness. It was so good as it was that I almost didn't want to rinse it out for my Choucroute, but I did anyway, trusting the recipes that I was using.

Another key ingredient in my Choucroute was a small rack of loin back pork ribs that I had purchased a day or two before; following http://foodsoftheworld.activeboards.net/forum_posts.asp?TID=2658&PID=39694&title=alsatian-choucroute#39694 - Jacques Pépin's instructions on the http://foodsoftheworld.activeboards.net/alsatian-choucroute_topic2658.html - main Choucroute thread , I made a petit salé of the ribs the night before preparing the Choucroute. Using this technique added a nice touch to the meal, in my opinion.

I had planned on using some of my http://foodsoftheworld.activeboards.net/black-forest-maple-bacon_topic4371.html - home-cured-and-smoked Black Forest Bacon for this project; unfortunately, it "mysteriously disappeared," as so many of my specialty products or ingredients seem to do in a house full of kids. No matter; I went instead with the thickest-sliced, best-quality bacon that I could find in in our small-town grocery.

The "recipe" and method that I used to make this was a sort of an amalgam of the reading that I had done on this thread; it's probably not a true, authentic way to do it, but results were really nice. I prepared my Choucroute in an enameled cast-iron Dutch oven smeared with duck fat, based on my home-made sauerkraut, onions and garlic; spiced with a https://www.walmart.com/ip/Maille-mustard/45791869 - rustic "Old-Style" mustard from Maille , black pepper, cloves, juniper berries and a bouquet garni consisting of bay leaves, thyme and parsley. The sauerkraut was "garnished" with bratwurst, smoked sausage, smoked frankfurters, thick-sliced smoked bacon, sliced smoked ham, home-cured pork back ribs and baby Dutch potatoes (3 per person). I braised the dish in a combination of roasted chicken stock and a http://www.missionmountainwinery.com/ - Montana-vinted Riesling from Mission Mountain Wineries .

After smearing the sides and bottom of the Dutch oven with duck fat, the sauerkraut, sliced onions and crushed garlic cloves (I used 4) were mixed together on the bottom, with the bouquet garni buried therein and the mustard, black pepper, juniper berries and cloves (I used 4) spread around on top. I then placed the baby potatoes (3 for each person) on top of the sauerkraut in the centre of the casserole, with the bratwursts, frankfurters and sausages arranged around the potatoes. Next, I topped everything with the bacon, some ham slices and the petit salé ribs, which had been rinsed and patted dry. Finally, I added about 2.5 cups of Riesling with a tablespoon of roasted chicken base mixed in, then covered the Dutch oven and put it into a cold oven. Purely on a guess and a whim, I set the oven for 340 degrees and 2.5 hours, then left everything alone.

This guess on time and temperature turned out to be spot-on, from what I can tell. After 2.5 hours, I removed the Dutch oven from the oven and let it rest for 10 minutes or so; when I took the cover off, this is what I saw (please forgive the bad lighting):



The aroma coming up from the Dutch oven was wonderful! I have made bastardized versions of this before, but this was the first time I've consciously set out to emulate a true Alsatian Choucroute. Seeing and smelling the results, I was very pleased; all that remained was to taste it.

The butler was polishing the china and the silver that day, so we had to make do with plastic:



Note: this photo is only to show the different meats involved; once I got it all on the plate, I realized it was simply too much, and cut all of the meats in half. I also added more sauerkraut to each plate, because it was really smelling nice; even my youngest son, who is no fan of store-bought sauerkraut, wanted more than I had originally plated, based solely on the aroma that was wafting up from my home-made sauerkraut in the casserole.

Where the meats were concerned, my idea was to go with a "per person" guess on portions (there were 4 of us eating): 1 bratwurst, 2 slices of bacon, 1 ham slice, 1 section of ribs, 1 frankfurter etc. It was a good idea, but for the sheer volume of food involved, I should have halved my expectations. Ironically, the amount of meat that I did use seemed to be just about right for the amount of sauerkraut that I had; in the final analysis, I simply should have invited 4 or six more people to dinner, and everything would have been perfect, I think. No worries - now we have plenty of leftovers for the coming week!

I truly liked this, and so did the family. Everything went together very well with seasonings, the Riesling and the smoke flavor from the meats. It was a huge meal, but very good. The sauerkraut itself - for me - was probably the best part - full of a whole array of flavours from the entire list of ingredients; however, the home-cured ribs, using Pépin's method, were very good, too, and a personal victory for me, as I had never attempted a true petit salé before. The rest of the meats and potatoes were all done very well; the bacon, which I had placed above the sausages, was not soggy, and the ribs were tender and juicy. The only thing that I might do differently next time would be to layer the ham slices below the bacon, rather than above, so that the renderings from the bacon can keep the ham a bit more moist.

I know that at least two other forum members - possibly more - were going to give this project a try; I eagerly await their results, and hope that this experience inspires more people to consider it for the future. You don't have to wait until next year's Choucroute Day - this is a perfect dish to prepare as we head into fall!

Ron

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