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Erin Go Dine

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Category: Europe
Forum Name: The British Isles
Forum Discription: A lot more than just boiled beef!
URL: http://foodsoftheworld.ActiveBoards.net/forum_posts.asp?TID=5090
Printed Date: 26 March 2026 at 20:33


Topic: Erin Go Dine
Posted By: HistoricFoodie
Subject: Erin Go Dine
Date Posted: 28 August 2018 at 13:00


An interesting coincidence. Just as I was casting about for another food culture to study, a co-worker brought in a book he’d gotten from the library. It was all about Irish pub food.

Irish? Whoever heard of Irish cuisine? If I thought of it at all, what came to mind was Corned Beef & Cabbage, and Irish Soda Bread. Other than that, with perhaps Irish Stew thrown in, I figured there’d be parallels with British cookery, with some modifications due to history and location. Boy, was I wrong. Ireland has a cuisine all its own, with much of it dating back several thousand years.

The Irish, it’s been said, are a gentle people, willing to forgive and forget anything but their grudges. You can add food to that short list of things they don’t forget. While quite willing to adapt new ingredients and techniques, they do not abandon traditional dishes. As Biddy White Lennon and Georgina Campbell note in Irish Food & Cooking, “What emerges through time is that, while the Irish are always ready and willing to take what they like and make it their own, they rarely abandon a favorite food.”

Here in America, where most of us have suffered through more than our share of St. Paddy’s Day overly salted corned beef and watery cabbage, it comes as a surprise that true Irish food is diverse, and a pleasure to eat. Rather than painfully working through soggy cabbage and salty beef, says David Bowers, in Real Irish Food, “they’d be closer to the mark (and doubtless happier) with a pint of Guinness, a dozen fresh oysters, a sliced lemon, and some buttered brown bread.”

Corned Beef & Cabbage, as it turns out, is strictly an Irish/American invention, all but unknown in Ireland. Most Irish, particularly those living outside the few big cities, have never heard of it. Literally!

Of course, our misconceptions about Irish food date from the mid-19th century, when the great potato famine (in which at least a million people died of starvation) sent thousands of poor, literally starving, Irish to America. Here, as is the way of all poor immigrants, they made do with what they had. Balancing that, keep in mind that part of the “Irish Problem,” was that, while multi-thousands starved to death, the well-to-do landowners were exporting millions of dollars’ worth of foodstuffs to Europe.

The fact is, as Bowers says, “In the 18th and 19th centuries, landowners and “strong farmers” ate a diet that would be sophisticated even today from elaborate meat and vegetable preparations to a glittering array of desserts, sweets, and imported wines.”

“Strong farmer,” perhaps needs explaining: By the 18th century, Celtic Ireland had evolved to a feudal society, as was much of Europe. But there was a twist. At the top were the wealthy landowners, many of whose extensive holdings would make a Texan blush. Numbering only about 5% of the population, most of the country’s wealth was concentrated in their hands.

At the bottom were peasants, who were basically in thrall to the landowners, and small tenant farmers, trying to eke out a living from only a couple of acres. These folks comprised the bulk of rural Ireland, and were, obviously, poor.

In the middle were the strong farmers. Essentially an agrarian middle-class, they were tenants with fairly large, prosperous farms. When it came to foodways, they ate pretty much the same foods, prepared the same way, as the landed gentry.

Long before that, however, more than 1,200 years ago, the Brehon Laws were codified. Based on an ancient oral tradition, these were the legal rules governing Gaelic Irish life, and covered everything from religious celebrations, business dealings, land values and ownership, farming practices, and even foodstuffs---generally in the form of their relative value as rent. Many of those foods are still in use today.

The Irish, too, continue their long tradition of celebrating festivals with specific foods. Many of these celebrations date to Celtic rituals and Christian feast days (many of which, themselves, were adaptations of pagan festivals).

Many of those celebrations, particularly as food was concerned, were seasonal in nature. For instance, Samhain, which corresponds to Halloween, marked the end of the Celtic year. It was a time for gathering the herds, and slaughtering them for both immediate use, and preserving.

To show how these converted to the Christian calendar, Samhain was a time when the barriers between the natural world, and the “other” world were opened, and humans could encounter fairies.

As can be seen, Irish food and cookery, of necessity, was based on fresh, seasonal ingredients, what we nowadays call “farm to table,” supplemented, especially in the winter, with salted and preserved foodstuffs.

It remains that way today.

Irish cuisine remained what it was well into the 20th century. New ingredients were adopted, of course, and there was some foreign influences. But, in general, it was on hold. In the latter part of the 20th century, and continuing unabated, comes a revolution.

In the mid-1960s, the Allen family opened Ballymaloe House, the first of the Irish house restaurants and hotels. In America we’d call them “country inns.” Ballymaloe did more than serve well prepared, good tasting food. Their menu was based on traditional Irish cuisine, sometimes modernized, often not. Myrtle and Darina Allen have been collecting and preserving traditional Irish recipes for more than 50 years; an incredible record of foodways stretching back hundreds of years.

House restaurants and hotels now abound throughout the Emerald Isle.

The next change came from the pubs. Pub grub had always been just that; pub grub. In the latter part of the century, pubs began discovering a great market for traditional foods updated to modern tastes. For instance, one of the things that caught my eye examining my co-worker’s book find, was a recipe for Beef & Guinness Pie.

There is a long tradition, in Ireland, of making beef & Guinness stews. Pub owners took this idea, and converted it into individual savory pies. This was, in fact, the first Irish dish I prepared, and it’s as wonderful as it sounds.

The gastropub idea now permeates Ireland, and some of the best restaurant foods can be found in those places.

More lately, there has been a resurgence of food crafters. This “artisan” movement exists in many parts of the world, of course. But it’s something new to Ireland. Now, everything from cheese, to meats, to sweets, mustards, and even ciders, are being produced by small, specialty makers. These products have found great acceptance in Ireland.

We’ll have more to discuss about Irish ingredients and methods next time.






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But we hae meat and we can eat
And sae the Lord be thanket



Replies:
Posted By: HistoricFoodie
Date Posted: 28 August 2018 at 14:34
Ireland is a small island, about the size of Maine. What it produces has been based on its location, environment, and climate. The soil is thin, not the best for growing vegetables. Livestock, therefore, has always played a more important role. Still and all, certain crops, particularly roots, due well there. Thus, it’s no surprise that potatoes---easy to grow and inexpensive---have played a major role in Irish cuisine since their introduction from the new world.

Irish food preparation has always been based on fresh, seasonal ingredients. This includes, of course, what is raised and grown there. But being a small island, seafood plays a large part in the Irish diet. Even inland, freshly harvested fish and shellfish are readily available. Indeed, many Irish spend their weekends and holidays at the shore, harvesting oysters, mussels, cockles and other ingredients that the sea provides.

There are a couple of issues American cooks need to be aware of, though.
First and foremost is language. It’s off been said that the British and Americans are two people separated by a common language. When it comes to Irish culinary matters, you can say that in spades.

As one would expect, in a country that still cherishes its Gaelic heritage, many ingredients have no English equivalent; or, at best, are poorly translated. But that’s the least of it. Time after time, we find, that the same word used in Ireland has a different meaning than it does in the States. Take “bacon” for instance. In America, bacon is almost always made from the pork belly, or, sometimes, the jowl. In Ireland, those cuts would be called “streaky bacon,” referring to the alternating lines of fat and lean. If only the word “bacon” is used, it refers to other cuts, often the loin. Canadian bacon is more akin to the Irish type, and makes a good substitute.

Or, consider the word “pie.” In America, pie is typically a sweet dish, typically enclosed in a pastry shell. While there are sweet pies, similar to that, made in Ireland, there are many more versions of savory pies. And the definition is slightly different. In Ireland, a pie consists of a bunch of stuff topped with a crust (sometimes there is a bottom crust as well). But that crust doesn’t have to be pastry. Just as often, it’s made from potatoes, or even colcannon (a dish made of potatoes and either cabbage or kale).

Even something as simple as oatmeal can be confusing. In the States, we have quick oats, rolled oats, and steel-cut oats. As you read Irish recipes, however, you constantly come across “pinhead oats” as an ingredient. “Pinhead?” I hear you ask. Turns out, that’s just what the Irish call steel-cut oats.

Another problem: Unless you live in a large city, many Irish ingredients just aren’t available. Take cheese, for instance. There is a growing craft-cheese industry in Ireland, but most of them are not exported. So, here again, substitutions have to be found.

As with Americans, Ireland has shied away from metric measurements. But that doesn’t make things easier. Imperial measurements are not the same. So adjustments have to be made, particularly if you’re not sure if the recipe you are using has been translated. When possible, it’s always better to measure by weight, for that reason.

It would be impossible to provide conversion charts for all these things. In the recipes I provide, standard American measurements are used. If an unusual or not-available product is called for, I’ll provide possible substitutions.

A real problem with Irish cuisine is cost. Because it remains, predominately, a rural, agrarian nation, many ingredients that are commonplace there are incredibly expensive here. Lamb is the most obvious example. For most of us, given its price tag, lamb is a special occasion ingredients. In Ireland it’s daily fare, and very affordable. Price differences really show up in seafood. The most glaring example: Dublin Bay Prawns. Sounds like some sort of shrimp, right? In fact, they are langoustines, which, when they can be found at all in American markets, take a king’s ransom to buy.

I don’t want to frighten you off with all this. They’re just issues to be aware of. And making substitutions, or biting the bullet for an occasional high-ticket item, is worth the effort.

Before going any further, I want to provide my source materials. For a cuisine that’s relatively unknown out of its homeland, there are an incredible number of books and web sites devoted to Irish cookery. Amazon has pages and pages of them. I actually bought four, and found a few others in my local library, which was a big surprise.

I’ve been asked, as a result of these threads, how I can afford so many cookbooks. Simple: Whenever possible I buy them used. I’ve ordered dozens of them, over time, and have had only one bad experience. In fact, most of the time Amazon’s affiliated used book dealers under-rate the condition. You order a book identified as in “good” condition, and what you get is “very good” or, even, excellent. The one bad experience, and subsequent level of service, came from World of Books. But if you avoid ordering from them there’s little chance of repeating my problems.

Here is the list of books I used:

The Irish Pub, Unauthored, Paragon Books, Bath, UK, 2012
Irish Pub Food, Unauthored, Paragon Books, Bath, UK, 2009
Real Irish Food, David Bowers, Skyhorse Publishing, New York, 2012
The Best of Irish Breads & Baking,, Georgina Campbell, Wolfhound Press, Dublin, 1996
The Complete Book of Irish Country Cooking, American Edition, Darina Allen, Penguin
            Books, New York, 1996
Irish Food & Cooking, Biddy White Lennon and Georgina Campbell, Hermes House,
            London, 2004 (Note, Irish Heritage Cooking, is the same book in hardcover, just
            with a different name and cover art.)
The Best of Irish Country Cooking, Nuala Cullen, Interlink Books, Northampton, MA, 2015

Irish cooking is based on letting the flavors of the food predominate. So there is little in the way of exotic spices and flavorings. Salt, pepper, and a few herbs such as parsley, tarragon, and mint comprise the basic larder. Onions and other aromatics, all grown locally, are used to add flavor as well.

Note that, historically, the Irish preferred white pepper to black. So, if you’re concerned about authenticity, that’s the way to go.

For some reason, most of us associate lamb as Ireland’s primary protein. While lamb is common, sheep are raised primarily for wool. Historically, pork was the main protein eaten, and remains popular. Beef, game, chicken, and the aforementioned seafood are also high on the list of Irish preferences. Steak is eaten with relish, but not to the degree it’s popular in America. Instead, it’s used other ways, as in stews, pies, and soups.

Root vegetables of all kinds are raised in Ireland, and are found on every table. Potatoes, it goes without saying, are king. Parsnips run them a close second. But also popular are carrots, beets, turnips, and rutabaga.

Wheat, barley, and, to a lesser extent, corn are used frequently. Which brings us to bread. Ireland does not have a long history of yeasted breads. Most of those date only from the early 20th century. Now, a hundred years might normally not qualify as “recent.” But when you’re talking about a culinary tradition whose roots go back about 7,000 years, it’s hardly a blink in time.

The majority of Irish breads use baking soda as the leavening, and Irish Soda Bread---both the brown and white versions---are one of the few items to achieve an international reputation. We’ll have a discussion of Irish breads later on.

If there’s one foodstuff the Irish are more passionate than others, its dairy. Milk, and dishes made with it, abound. This is a tradition going back to Celtic times, and there’s a whole category of dishes based on the idea of “banbhianna,” various translated as white meats or white foods; i.e., dishes made from milk. By and large, the Irish prefer sour milk to sweet, so buttermilk is a better choice for most dishes.

Irish butter takes second place to none! It has a higher butterfat content than others, and brings a richer depth of flavor to dishes using it. One of the few commonly available Irish products, it can be found in most supermarkets in America. Kerry Gold is the most common brand, but there are others. It’s premium priced, to be sure. But the difference isn’t all that great. I recommend that you use it---it truly makes a difference.

As noted, there’s been a renaissance of cheese making in Ireland. But hard cheeses in particular have been part of the cuisine for time out of mind.

What the Irish eat isn’t all that different than other cultures. How they prepare their foods is what makes it special. We’ll explore some of that in further installments.





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But we hae meat and we can eat
And sae the Lord be thanket


Posted By: TasunkaWitko
Date Posted: 29 August 2018 at 08:54
This is a very nice introduction, Brook; thank you for taking the time to share it.

What strikes me is what I perceive to be the interplay with Old and New, as well as how both interact so comfortably with each other. In some ways, it seems it might as well be a couple of hundred years ago, but in other ways, we are right there in the modern age. This is something that's always struck me about Ireland, and the food seems to be no exception.

Of interest to a project of my own: did you find any cross-over with what you know of Scottish cooking, or would you say that Ireland is fully and wholly its own thing? I see some similarities in the ingredients you mentioned, but that could be a product of geography, rather than culture.

I'm looking forward to more - keep up the good work!

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Posted By: HistoricFoodie
Date Posted: 29 August 2018 at 11:28
I'm not all that familiar with Scottish food, Ron. But, from the little I do know, I'd say, while there is a similarity in ingredients, they are two different food cultures.

Among other reasons is isolation. Being an island, that did not suffer the successive waves of conquest of other locales, Ireland was able to develop its own foodways.

Yes, there have been introductions of "foreign" foods---the potato, itself, bears introduction to that. But, by the same token, the food lists in the Brehon Laws, promulgated in the 600s AD, would not be unfamiliar to a modern Irish homemaker.

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But we hae meat and we can eat
And sae the Lord be thanket


Posted By: HistoricFoodie
Date Posted: 29 August 2018 at 13:10
If there’s one ingredient every one associates with the Emerald Isle, it’s the humble potato. And for good reason: Ireland and potatoes are inexorably wound together; and have been since spuds were introduced in the 1500s.

Potatoes were a Godsend to the Irish peasantry. They are easy to grow, even in thin soils, very productive (important when one’s homestead is only an acre or two), and inexpensive. Plus they are nutritionally packed.

Worldwide, our association stems from the great potato famine in the mid-1840s. But that was only the worst of a series of crop failure on and off through the early 19th century. The problem stemmed from the fact that only three, genetically similar, varieties were grown. When a new blight appeared, those potatoes had no resistance. The result: a catastrophic crop failure, in which a million people died, leading to the Irish diaspora to other lands---primarily North America.

Today there are at least a dozen varieties grown, with, it is hoped, enough genetic diversity to prevent such failures. Many of these varieties are all but unique to Ireland, and not grown anywhere else. Which, sometimes, makes it difficult to replicate Irish recipes.
What they have in common is the Irish penchant for floury (as opposed to waxy) potatoes. This is such a mania, that the highest compliment you can pay to an old-timer, is to describe his or her potato dish as “a real ball of flour.” Here in the States, small russets and Yukon golds are the best choices. Even large russets will do, so long as you boil them instead of baking. If you can find them, Kennebec is probably the best choice of all. More than likely, however, you’ll have to grow your own to get them.

No Irish meal is complete without potatoes, and there are, literally, hundreds of ways to prepare them. But there are three iconic dishes. So let’s start our potato discussion with them.

Boxty: Boxty comes close to being the national dish of Ireland. It’s found everywhere, from homes, to pubs, to the menus of high-end restaurants.

“Potato pancake?” I hear you say. That’s it?” Yep! But with a twist. While every culture that uses potatoes has a version of potato pancakes, what makes Boxty special is the use of both cooked and raw potatoes, which brings them their special taste and texture.

BOXTY
(Irish Potato Cakes)


1 cup grated raw potatoes     
1 cup mashed potatoes
1 cup all-purpose flour     
2 tsp baking powder
2 tsp salt     
2 eggs, lightly beaten
¼ cup (approx.) milk     
Butter or oil for frying
Sugar (optional)

Place the grated raw potatoes in a clean cloth and twist to remove excess moisture.

Whisk together the flour, salt, and baking powder.

Combine flour with the raw potatoes, mashed potatoes, and eggs. Add enough milk to make a batter.

Heat a heavy skillet over medium heat and add butter or oil. Drop batter by the tablespoon into the hot pan. Brown on both sides (about 4 minutes per side).

Butter each boxty and serve hot, with or without sugar.

CHAMP: Champ exemplifies the way a simple peasant dish can be elevated to haute status. Essentially mashed potatoes with something---usually a vegetable---added, it now appears on upscale restaurant menus around the world.

What makes it special is the presentation. The potatoes are served in a bowl, with a well created in the middle. A large lump of butter is added to the well, where the heat of the spuds melts it. Forkfuls of potato were dipped in the melted butter.

Historically, champ was made by pounding the potatoes, using a wooden, pestle-like tool called a beetle. This is not an easy task, and, traditionally, it was men’s work to beetle the champ.

It’s not just people that enjoy champ. Tradition has it that a bowl of champ be set out on Halloween night, to feed the fairies.

As would be expected, there are reginal and house-to-house variations. Basic champ is made with scallions. But, among the variations are Crispy Onion Champ, Dulse (seaweed) Champ, Nettle Champ, Pea Champ…..the list goes on and on. I’m partial to the Crispy Onion version, but here’s a recipe for the basic dish:

Champ
(Irish Mashed Potatoes)


6-8 unpeeled potatoes (russet or Yukon gold)
1 bunch scallions, white bulbs and green tops
1 ½ cups milk
4-8 pats butter
Salt and pepper to taste

Scrub the potatoes and boil them in their jackets. Finely chop the scallions. Cover the scallions with cold milk and bring slowly to a boil. Simmer for 3-4 minutes, then turn off the heat and leave to infuse.

Peel and mash the freshly boiled potatoes and, while hot, mix with the boiling milk and scallions. Beat in some of the butter. Season with salt and pepper.

Serve in one large or four individual bowls. With the back of a spoon, create a well in the center of the bowl. Add a lump of butter to the well, and let it melt before serving.

For the crispy onion version, cut two or three large onions into quarter-inch rings. Melt some butter in a skillet and cook until nicely browned. Put a helping of Champ in each serving bowl, and arrange some of the onions around the edge.



COLCANNON:   Perhaps the most Irish of Irish potato dishes, Colcannon is a mixture of potatoes and some type of cabbage. By far the most common form is to use so-called spring cabbage (essentially, young heads) or, barring that, savoy. But kale is a popular alternative, and there is a raging argument over which is the correct version.

It goes without saying there are many regional and individual preference versions. In Dublin, for instance, they include parsnips in their Colcannon. I haven’t tried that version, yet. But it’s certainly on my list.

FWIW, for both color and flavor, I prefer Colcannon made with kale. And, as we’ll see in a future installment, it makes a better topping for savory cottage pies. But I’m not getting into the middle of that fight. If you want to use cabbage, go to it.

Colcannon is usually served as a mash; with the potatoes and cooked cabbage mixed together. This version is a bit different, in that the mixture is fried.

COLCANNON
(Irish Potatoes and Cabbage)


1 lb potatoes, peeled & boiled     
1 lb kale
Milk, if necessary     
1 tbls butter +
1 lg onion, finely chopped     
Salt & pepper to taste

Mash the potatoes. Chop the kale, add it to the potatoes and mix. Stir in a little milk if mixture is too stiff.

Melt some butter in a frying pan over medium heat and add the onion. Cook until softened. Mix well with the potato mixture.

Add the remainder of the butter to the pan. When very hot, turn the potato mixture into the pan and spread it out. Fry until brown, then cut it roughly into pieces and continue frying until they are crisp and brown. Serve in bowls or as a side dish, with plenty of butter.



     










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But we hae meat and we can eat
And sae the Lord be thanket


Posted By: TasunkaWitko
Date Posted: 30 August 2018 at 08:47
I would love to give any of those a try, Brook.

We actually have an "Irish Pub" a couple of doors down from my office; in March, they serve Boxties (Boxtys?) that are slightly different. The ones they make are bigger, with a filling of some sort wrapped up in them like a burrito. One that I especially like is filled with grilled steak tips and onions with a creamy mushroom sauce based on Irish whisky. Authentic? I don't know...but very good!

I'm with you on the Crispy Onion Champ - that sounds like it would be really nice. When I was a kid, I would do the trick with the butter (make a well with a spoon, add butter and let it melt), until someone told me that wasn't healthy.

Colcannon is another one that I need to try. I like fried cabbage, and I like potatoes. I always think of it with some crispy-fried onions and some sort of bacon, but just by itself would really hit the spot.

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Posted By: HistoricFoodie
Date Posted: 30 August 2018 at 22:13
None of my references have anything quite like that, Ron. But, as a pub dish, it makes sense. Pubs and restaurants have, I understand, really pushed the concept of boxty. There's even oven-baked bread versions.

I'm imagining their boxty batter as being thinner than mine, so it spreads out in the pan---sort of like a crepe. Then the fillings get wrapped in it.



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But we hae meat and we can eat
And sae the Lord be thanket


Posted By: TasunkaWitko
Date Posted: 31 August 2018 at 08:53
Originally posted by Brook Brook wrote:

I'm imagining their boxty batter as being thinner than mine, so it spreads out in the pan---sort of like a crepe. Then the fillings get wrapped in it.


That's exactly correct, Brook - probably not completely traditional, but it does seem to keep in style with the modern "gastropub" idea.

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Posted By: HistoricFoodie
Date Posted: 03 September 2018 at 07:12
I'd originally had a note about colcannon about how it's prepared. Somehow or other it got dropped from my post. A friend in Europe alerted me, and I've edited that post.

Just thought I'd let everybody know.

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But we hae meat and we can eat
And sae the Lord be thanket


Posted By: HistoricFoodie
Date Posted: 03 September 2018 at 10:31
Savory pies are endemic to the British Isles, with a tradition going back hundreds of years. But, an argument can be made that Ireland surpasses all others in its love of them. They’re served everywhere; in homes, in pubs, and in up-scale restaurants.

We’ve discussed savory pies in the past, such as here: http://www.foodsoftheworld.activeboards.net/savory-pies_topic2496.html That thread barely introduces the topic, however. Anything can be turned into a pie, and likely has been.

What, after all, is a savory pie? As one Irish wag put it, a pie is a bunch of stuff enclosed in a crust.   And so it is.

Originally, savory pies were primarily a way of using up left-overs. Meat from a Sunday roast, some carrots, perhaps a handful of peas, and some stock, and there you have a filling. At its simplest, leftover stew, with no further manipulation, makes a perfectly acceptable pie.
The crust could be pastry, as we tend to think of pies, or something else; mashed potatoes or other roots, for instance. In Ireland, parsnips, usually mixed with potatoes, are popular.

If there’s one dish we think of as quintessentially Irish, it’s Shepherd’s Pie. And, the fact is, versions of it are found all over Ireland. However, I am not including a recipe, here, because, as it turns out, Shepherd’s Pie is not Irish. It’s not even English, despite its ubiquitousness in England. As it turns out, Shepherd’s Pie originated in Scotland. If you’d like making one, here are a couple of links:

http://www.foodsoftheworld.activeboards.net/traditional-english-shepherds-pie_topic5007.html

http://www.foodsoftheworld.activeboards.net/shepherds-pie_topic2305.html

One comment, though. To be a Shepherd’s Pie, the protein must be lamb. If other meats are used it is called a cottage pie.

Traditionally, if a pastry topping was used, it would have been a short crust. Most pies made at home are still done that way. Up-scale pubs and restaurants have taken to using puff pastry instead. This makes a more dramatic presentation---particularly when service takes the form of individual pies. It also is a way of justifying the high prices. Or maybe I’m just an old cynic.

I’ve taken to using puff pastry myself. No, I’d never consider making my own. But, nowadays, puff pastry is inexpensively available in the frozen foods section of most supermarkets. So, why not?

My tendency is to make individual pies. Because I use the same baking dishes for these, I made a template out of a manila folder. This is merely a disk, one-inch more in diameter than that of the pie pans. This makes it much easier to cut out the crust, leaving a half-inch overhang all around.

In Ireland, the tendency is to not attach the pastry directly to the pie plate. Instead, they use various techniques, which I’ll highlight in the recipes.

In general, the liquid used in Irish pies is stock, stout, or a combination of the two. But there are notable exceptions, particularly if seafood is the filling.

Here are a few examples:

BEEF & STOUT PIES

When my coworker first showed be the book on Irish pub food, I say the picture of this dish and fell in love. It was the first Irish dish I made, and was a great introduction to the food of Ireland.
     It also puts a point on the idea of recycling leftovers. Beef and Guinness Stew is an old dish, found throughout the Emerald Isle. Guinness, Ireland’s famed black stout, was first brewed in 1759. It’s more than likely that, by 1760, it was being used as a braising liquid.
     Note the instructions for fitting the crust. First, I’d never seen that technique before, and thought it might have something to do with making individual pies. But another recipe, in which it’s made in a large, rectangular baking pan, uses the same technique.
     You may find, as I did, that it’s easier to cut the strips after rolling out the dough, before cutting the circles.


3 tbls all-purpose flour     
1 tsp salt
½ tsp black pepper     
2 lbs boneless chuck or eye of round, cut in 1-inch pieces
Oil for frying              
1 ¼ cups beef stock     
1 onion, coarsely chopped
8 oz mushrooms, quartered     
1 tbls tomato paste
2 tsp chopped fresh thyme     
1 cup Stout
1 pound puff pastry     
1 egg, lightly beaten

Combine the flour, salt, and pepper in a bowl, then toss the beef in the mixture until evenly coated.

Heat 3 tablespoons oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Cook the beef, in batches, and transfer to a flameproof casserole dish. Deglaze the skillet with ¼ cup of stock, and add the liquid to the casserole dish.

Heat another 1-2 tablespoons of oil in the skillet and cook the onion and mushrooms for 6-7 minutes, until soft. Add to the casserole dish with the tomato paste, thyme, stout, and remaining stock. Heat the casserole dish over medium-high heat, bring to a boil, then simmer gently with the lid slightly askew for 1 ½ hours. Check the seasoning.

Drain the meat mixture in a strainer set over a bowl, reserving the liquid. Reduce liquid by about one quarter. Let rest until cool. Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 425F. Put a baking sheet in the oven to heat.

Divide the meat mixture among four 1 ¾-cup pie plates with a flat rim or ovenproof bowls. Pour in enough of the liquid to not quite cover the filling. Dampen the rims of the pie plates.

Cut the pastry into quarters. Roll out each piece to about 1 inch bigger than the pie plates. From each quarter, cut a ½-inch strip and press it onto a dampened rim. Brush with egg yolk, then drape the pastry quarter on top, covering the strip. Trim, crimp the edges with a fork, and make three slashes. Decorate with shapes made from dough scraps. Brush with remaining egg yolk.

Place the pies on the baking sheet and bake 20 minutes. Reduce heat to 400F and bake an additional 5 minutes.

CHICKEN AND HAM PIE

If you’ve ever had one of those frozen chicken pot pies you need to try this. It’s a real eye-opener on what a pot-pie can be, rich, full-bodied, and flavorful.
     Here, again, we find an unusual method of fitting the crust. You center the dough on the pie plate. Then, instead of crimping the overhang, you tuck it into the plate. For the dough-handling-challenged, such as myself, this technique is a God send. It also has another advantage. The crust doesn’t pop off in one piece, as is the tendency for pie crusts attached to the rim.


¼ cup butter     
¼ cup all-purpose flour
1 large leek, thinly sliced     
2 cups chicken stock
1 cup cream     
2 ½ cups diced cooked chicken
1 cup diced cooked ham     
1 cup canned or frozen peas
2 tbls parsley, minced     
Salt and pepper to taste
1 sheet frozen pastry, thawed     
1 egg

Preheat oven to 400F and lightly butter a large, deep-dish, 9-inch pie plate.

In a large saucepan over medium heat, melt the butter. Add the leek slices, tossing to coat. Cover the pan and cook for 10 minutes until the leek is tender but not browned. Mix in the flour and cook for one minute. Gradually pour in the chicken stock, stirring all the time to prevent lumps. Add the cream and bring to a gentle simmer. Add the chicken, ham, peas, and parsley. Cook for 3-4 minutes until thickened slightly. Season with salt & pepper, and spoon into the prepared pie dish.

Roll out the pastry and cut into a circle about 12 inches in diameter, so there’s plenty of overhang n the pie plate. Lift the pasty on top of the pie and tuck the overhang down the inside rim.

Beat the egg with 1 tablespoon water and brush this glaze on top of the pastry. Using a sharp paring knife, cut slits in the top of the pie. Bake for about 20 minutes, until pastry is golden and the pie is bubbling.

FISHERMAN’S PIE

Being a small island, fresh seafood is readily available everywhere. And, compared to American prices, it’s very affordable.
     I used haddock for the main protein, and salmon, because it’s the only smoked fish available in our markets. It’s a great combination.
     The original recipe uses a mashed potato crust. I choose to go with colcannon, but for color and additional flavor. Do not use the specialized version I posted earlier, but, rather, a more traditional one, using about 1 ½ pounds potatoes, half a pound or so of kale, and some sautéed onion slices. Blanch the kale in boiling water until wilted, drain, squeeze out the excess water, and chop fine before mixing with the potatoes and onion)

     
2 lbs white fish (cod, haddock, etc)     
½ lb smoked fish
2/3 cup white wine     
1 tbls fresh herbs, chopped
1 ¼ cups mushrooms, sliced     
Scant ½ cup butter
6 oz cooked shrimp     
¼ cup all-purpose flour
½ cup cream or buttermilk     
Salt & white pepper
Colcannon

Preheat oven to 350F. Grease a baking pan. Place fish in pan with the wine, cover with foil, and bake until it states to flake, about 15 minutes. Strain off the liquid, reserving it for sauce. Increase oven to 425F.

Cook the mushrooms in a skillet with 1 tablespoon of the butter, then spoon over the fish. Scatter with the shrimp.

Heat 4 tablespoons of the remaining butter in a pan and stir in the flour. Cook for a few minutes without browning, then remove from the heat and add the reserved cooking liquid, stirring well between additions. Return to the heat and gently bring to a boil, stirring to ensure a smooth sauce. Add the cream and season to taste with salt and pepper. Pour over the fish mixture and smooth the surface.

Pipe the colcannon over the fish mixture. Bake 10-15 minutes until golden brown.










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But we hae meat and we can eat
And sae the Lord be thanket


Posted By: TasunkaWitko
Date Posted: 04 September 2018 at 10:22
These appear to be three excellent offerings, Brook, with enough variety in ingredients and technique to give anyone a great place to start in their exploration.

At first, I gravitated toward the Beef and Stout Pie; but as I read the descriptions of the other two, I became more and more interested. I especially like the idea of alternative top crusts; I really, really love a short-crust-topped pie, but having other choices give much more versatility, it seems, to work with a theme or a desired profile.

This might be a question better suited for a future installment, but do you see any different treatment of wild game in the recipes, or would you say that game is used pretty much as its domestic counterpart would be? For instance, would you say that a Venison and Stout Pie would be much different than the beef one above?

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Posted By: HistoricFoodie
Date Posted: 04 September 2018 at 11:34
Significantly different? I'd guess not, Ron. Just the normal flavor differences between beef and venison. Game has always played an important role in Irish cuisine, so a venison & stout pie is right in keeping with the tradition.

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But we hae meat and we can eat
And sae the Lord be thanket


Posted By: HistoricFoodie
Date Posted: 08 September 2018 at 09:16
As many of you know, I’m a soup fiend. A day without soup, I’ve often said, is a day without sunshine.

For somebody like me, Ireland is a culinary Mecca. The Irish love their soups. Literally anything that is found on the Emerald Isle, or in the sea that surrounds it, can be made into a soup; and likely already has.

We tend to use the words “soup” and “broth” interchangeably. In Ireland that isn’t quite the same. If the word “broth” is used, it generally means a hearty soup, one that can easily be a one-pot meal.

The list of Irish soups is endless. Among them: Lamb and Vegetable; Nettle; Mushroom, Pea; Pea Tendril; Sunchoke; Kidney and Bacon; and even Oatmeal. Seafood isn’t left out, and the bounty of the sea is often made into a soup. Included would be lobster, mussels, oysters, cockles, and even limpets, among others.

In addition to the recipes below, which are Irish soups I’ve made, high on my to-try list are Crab with Saffron; Chestnut and Lentil; and Brotchan Roy---that last being a soup made with leeks and oatmeal.

As should be obvious, if you have a taste for a particular soup, there are Irish versions of it. Here are the ones I’ve tried so far:

SKINK
(Irish Chicken Soup)


“Skink” is an old Gaelic word that simply means “broth.” I kind of fell in love with it, although it’s not commonly used, much, anymore. Obviously, there are many versions of it. This one is based on chicken.

2 celery stalks, diced
4 small carrots, thinly sliced
1 small leek, halved and sliced into half-moons
3 ½ cups chicken stock
1 bay leaf
1 heaping cup diced cooked chicken
½ cup fresh or frozen peas*
4 green onions, whites and some green, sliced
1 egg yolk
1/3 cup cream
4 leaves soft lettuce (Boston or butter type), shredded
Salt and pepper to taste

Put the celery, carrots, and leek in a soup kettle or large saucepan. Add the stock and bay leaf, and season with salt and pepper. Cover, bring to a boil, reduce heat and simmer until vegetables are tender, about 15 minutes.

Add the chicken, peas, and green onion Simmer for about 8 minutes until the peas are tender.

Remove the pan from the heat. Lightly beat the egg yolk and cream together, temper it with some of the stock, and stir the mixture into the soup. Reheat gently, stirring. Do not let it boil.

Ladle the soup into warm bowls, add the lettuce, and serve immediately.

*If using frozen peas, let them defrost and add to the soup a couple of minutes before the cream, so they heat through but do not turn mushy.

POTATO and FRESH HERB SOUP

It should come as no surprise that the potato stars in many Irish soups. Thick and thin consistencies, rustic and refined, you name it. If there’s a way of manipulating spuds into a soup, the Irish long ago invented it.
     I like soups like this one a little on the rustic one, so only pureed about half the solids
     

4 tbls butter     
1 ¼ cups diced onion
1 ½ lbs diced potatoes     
1 tsp salt
Freshly ground pepper     
1 tbls mixed chopped herbs (parsley, thyme, lemon balm, etc)
3 ½ cups chicken stock          
½ cup creamy milk

Melt the butter in a heavy saucepan. When it foams, add the onions and potatoes and toss them in the butter until well coated. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Cover and sweat on a gentle heat for 10 minutes. Add the fresh herbs and the stock, and cook until the vegetables are soft. Puree the soup in a blender or food processor. Adjust seasoning. Thin with creamy milk to the required consistency.

Serve garnished with some of the herbs.

BEEF & BARLEY BROTH

It probably comes as a surprise to many people, but barley is one of Ireland’s favorite grains, perhaps even surpassing oats. It is, after all, the basis of Irish Whiskey. But it’s also used extensively in cookery, in everything from soups, to breads, to main dishes.
     Beef & Barley Broth was traditionally served by dividing the cut-up and cooked meat among individual bowls. The broth was then poured over the meat, and a floury potato added to each bowl to help sop of the juice. That’s still a fun way of serving it.


1 ½ lbs chuck steak
1/3 cup pearl barley, rinsed
1/3 cup green split peas, rinsed
1 large onion, thickly sliced
½ tsp black peppercorns
3 carrots, halved lengthwise and sliced
¾ cup rutabaga, diced
1 small leek, thinly sliced
1 celery stalk, sliced
6 small, floury potatoes
1 ½ cups green cabbage, shredded coarsely
2 tbls chopped fresh parsley
Salt

Put the beef, barley, and split peas in a soup kettle or large saucepan along with the onion and peppercorns. Pour in enough cold water to just cover. Slowly bring to a boil, skimming off any foam, then reduce the heat, cover, and simmer gently for 1 ½ hours.

Add the carrots, rutabaga, leek, and celery to the pan. Season with salt and simmer an additional 30 minutes, adding more water if the soup starts looking too thick.

Meanwhile, put the potatoes in another saucepan with water to cover. Add salt to taste and bring to a boil. Cook for 7-10 minutes, until tender but not disintegrating. Drain, return to pan, and cover with a dish towel (which will absorb rising steam).

Remove the meat saucepan from the stove. Carefully lift out the meat. Cut into small cubes and return them to the pan. Add the cabbage and simmer an additional 5 minutes, or until the cabbage is just tender. Adjust seasonings.

Ladle the soup into warm, wide soup bowls. Place a potato in the middle of each bowl and sprinkle with the parsley.

PARSNIP & APPLE SOUP

This is a more modern Irish soup, as evidenced by the use of “exotic” spices. Traditionally, Irish cuisine doesn’t use much in the way of these spices. They were rare and expensive. Landowners would use them. But, in general, they never caught on until well into the 20th century.

3 tbls butter     
1 onion, chopped
1 lb parsnips, sliced thin     
1 garlic clove, crushed
1 lb cooking apples, peeled, cored, and chopped
1-2 tsp curry powder     
1 tsp ground cumin
1 tsp ground coriander          
5 cups chicken stock
Salt and pepper to taste     
½ cup cream
Snipped fresh chives for garnish

Melt the butter in a soup kettle. Sauté the onions until just beginning to soften. Add the parsnips, apple, and garlic, and cook until softened but not browned. Stir in the spices and cook 2 minutes, stirring.

Add the stock and bring to a boil, stirring continuously. Season with salt and pepper. Reduce heat and simmer until parsnips are tender, about 30 minutes.

Puree mixture in a blender until smooth.
Return soup to kettle. Add the cream, mixing well, and reheat gently, but do not let boil.

Serve hot, sprinkled with chives.








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But we hae meat and we can eat
And sae the Lord be thanket


Posted By: Margi Cintrano
Date Posted: 08 September 2018 at 16:59
Brook. 

Wow,  heavenly Parsnip & Apple  Soup.   I am a grand fan of parsnips and they are quite alien in the Mediterranean ..  

They are very much a staple in northern  France, central Eastern and Eastern  Europe ..  

However,  I have seen them during the  late autumn and Winter at the farmer´s market .. So, just copied your récipe and when the season begins, I definitely shall be preparing .. 

My French mom used to make a parsnip soup with carrots and she used a very small potato verses cream to thicken ..  She also used curry and cumin too ..   Very aromatic and can be a Marvel once the weather gets a bit chillier here ..    

Thank you very mich for posting ..  


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Volamos a Mediterraneo, un paraiso que conquista su gente u su cocina.


Posted By: TasunkaWitko
Date Posted: 10 September 2018 at 09:08
Nice soups, Brook - all of them look delicious, but the Skink caught my eye. I did a little Googling (and found out it is important to put the word "soup" after "Skink!" ); what I saw looked very good.

The potato/herb and beef/barley soup also really look good, especially as summer draws to a close; and the parsnip/apple one would surely be a treat right at the end of October or beginning of November.

Great choices!

Once you've tried the Brotchan Roy, I'd like to hear about that one, as well.

Ron


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Posted By: HistoricFoodie
Date Posted: 10 September 2018 at 16:16
Irish Stew! Is there anything more iconic to Ireland?

But, just what is an Irish Stew? Ask ten cooks from the Emerald Isle, and you’ll get 16 different recipes.

At base, it’s a stew made with lamb, potatoes, salt, herbs, and other stuff. Maybe. Some include onions, some don’t. And there is a raging controversy over whether or not an “authentic” Irish Stew has carrots. Purists maintain that they’re never found in the Stew. Celery, common to many modern versions, seems to be missing in older ones. There even are versions that incorporate barley into the dish.

Nowadays always lamb, the meat, itself, can be cubes, chunks, or, as is often the case, actual chops, with the bone in.

As, Nuala Cullen stresses, “….I suspect the “authentic” dish is the one served in our families.” But that still begs the question.

Most authorities point out, for instance, that Irish Stew was originally made with mutton. If so, probably for the same reason that early Kentucky dishes did so. The cash crop from sheep is, primarily, wool. So why butcher your productive animals? Once the critter stopped producing good wool, it could go in the pot.

Cookery writer Florence Irwin, examining the origins, says, “In the “big house,” when a pig or sheep was killed, the griskins, spare ribs or scrag end of the neck of mutton where shared among the farm laborers and neighbors. The meat was put straight into the big pot with onions and peeled potatoes and then covered with water.”

That “big pot,” by the way was a three-legged iron kettle called a “bastable,” that resembles a pregnant-belly Dutch oven. They were in common use well into the 20th century, and some cooks continue using them. Their most common usage was for baking bread, over a turf fire. But, obviously, they were used as a kettle as well.

But even mutton might be a Johnny-come-lately when it comes to Irish Stew. There is strong evidence that goat was the original protein of choice. Although it’s long been out of favor in Ireland, goat goes back to early settlement of the Isle.

In quite a few households, Irish Stew is actually served as two courses. First, the broth, richly flavorsome with the flavors of the lamb (particularly when made with bone-in lamb) and herbs, is served as a soup. The stew, itself, is then dished out as a main course.

I’m not going to bore you with all the permutations of Irish Stew. I’ve examined several dozen recipes, and have made half a dozen or so. Instead, I’m going to present my favorite. If you’re interested in others, the web is covered up with them. One interesting surprise: if you search under “Irish Stew” and “Traditional Irish Stew,” you’ll find many differences.

All that said, here is my favorite:

BALLYMALOE IRISH STEW

Shoulder lamb chops are hen’s teeth around here. When I make this stew I use loin chops instead. This does, I have to admit, make for an expensive stew. But, it’s so good, I can stand the strain on my wallet.

2 ½-3 lb shoulder lamb chops at least 1” thick
5 med or 12 baby onions     
5 med or 12 baby carrots
Salt and pepper     
2 ½ cups lamb or chicken stock
8 potatoes     
1 sprig thyme
1 tbls roux (optional     
1 tbls parsley, chopped
1 tbls chives, chopped

Preheat oven to 350F.

Cut the chops in half and trim off some of the excess fat. Place the trimmed-off fatty pieces in a heavy pan and cook over gentle heat so that the fat runs out. Discard the solid bits that remain.

Peel the onions and scrape or thinly peel the carrots. Cut the carrots into large chunks, or, if they are young, leave them whole. If onions are large, cut them small.

Toss the meat in the hot fat in the pan until it is slightly brown. Transfer the meat into a casserole, then quickly toss the onions and carrots in the fat. Build the meat, carrots, and onions up in layers in the casserole, carefully seasoning each layer with freshly ground pepper and salt. Pout the stock into the pan, stir to dissolve the caramelized scraping, and pour into the casserole. Peel the potatoes and lay them on top of the casserole, so they will steam while the stew cooks. Season the potatoes. Add a sprig of thyme and bring to a boil on top of the stove. Cover and transfer to a moderate oven or allow to simmer on top of the stove until the stew is cooked, 1-1 ½ hours.

When the stew is cooked, pour off the cooking liquid and skim off the fat. Reheat the liquid in another saucepan. Slightly thicken it with a little roux if you like. Check the seasoning, then add chopped parsley and chives and pour it back over the stew. Bring it back up to boiling and serve directly from the pot or in a large pottery dish.









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But we hae meat and we can eat
And sae the Lord be thanket


Posted By: HistoricFoodie
Date Posted: 17 September 2018 at 09:53
Nice soups, Brook - all of them look delicious, but the Skink caught my eye. I did a little Googling (and found out it is important to put the word "soup" after "Skink!" ); what I saw looked very good.

I somehow missed this comment, Ron. Although it's often done so, to say the word "soup" after "Skink," sort of overstates the case.

"Skink," which is used in both Ireland and Scotland, translates as "broth." That being the case, skink soup is sort of redundant, which is why I didn't use that phraseology.

No matter. It's a great version of chicken soup, whatever you call it.

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But we hae meat and we can eat
And sae the Lord be thanket


Posted By: TasunkaWitko
Date Posted: 17 September 2018 at 10:27
Hi, Brook -

I meant mostly that it seems to be necessary to add "soup" when "googling" the subject; otherwise, the results seem to be on the reptilian side.

I enjoyed reading your installment on the Irish stew; your descriptions and recipe are very close to what I have read and tried, except they are undoubtedly more "authentic" (bad choice of words, but...you know how that goes) than what I have seen and tried. My own attempt turned out very good, but I had to use beef rather than lamb; it never ceases to amaze me that in a town surrounded by sheep, lamb is very hard to come by; and when it is found, the prices are so prohibitive. I do have an inexpensive source for shanks, so I will be seeing what I can do with them, as time goes by.

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Posted By: HistoricFoodie
Date Posted: 17 September 2018 at 15:08
Ahhh. I misunderstood. But, knowing Google, I can see the possibilities.

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But we hae meat and we can eat
And sae the Lord be thanket


Posted By: HistoricFoodie
Date Posted: 18 September 2018 at 11:38
Ireland has a vast array of breads and breadstuffs, such as scones. What it doesn’t have, however, is a long tradition of yeasted breads. Those that are popular mostly date from the beginning of the 20th century.

Historically, the leavening agent used for bread was barm, which is a by-product of the brewing industry. Then, in about 1845, baking soda was introduced, and took off with a vengeance. So much so, that Irish Soda Bread is one of the few culinary items to achieve worldwide reputation.

If you’re inexperienced with soda as a leavening, as I was, be aware that there is a whole range of techniques and methods that are different from yeast breads. I’m not going to detail all of them. Heck, I’m still learning the “rules” myself. But there are three keys you should pay strict attention to.

1. Do not overwork the dough. Once the liquid is added, work the mixture only until everything comes together. Many recipes say to give the dough a quick kneading at that point. Yeah, right! Don’t do it. It will make the bread tough, and hinder the rise.

2. Yeasted breads, of course, require time to proof and rise. The opposite is the case with soda breads. As soon as the dough is prepared it should go right into a hot oven. This means you should pre-heat the oven before starting to mix the dough.

3. Soda requires some acid to activate the process. So buttermilk should be the liquid of choice. The Irish prefer “sour” milk in all things, anyway, so there’s a perfect match. Doncha just love it when a plan comes together!

BTW, you can substitute baking powder, on a one-to-one ratio, if you want.

Another surprise: Historically, Ireland’s flour was made from soft Red Wheat, imported from the northern plains and Canada. When I first learned that I was taken aback, wondering how the lack of gluten held things together. But then came an epiphany. I’m a southerner, after all, where biscuits are supreme. Biscuits are made with soft flour, and have no trouble rising---providing the dough has not been overworked.

I can’t stress enough the idea of not over-working the dough. Many southerners won’t even twist the cutter when punching out biscuits, because they believe doing so work-hardens the edges.

If you live in the South, finding soft flour is not a problem. In other parts of the country it may be hard to come by. If so, all-purpose flour will work. Do not use bread flour, though. It won’t rise properly, and produces a dense, chewy bread. But not in a good way.

in mind, too, that soda breads do not rise as high as yeast breads. So don’t be disappointed when they don’t.

Irish Soda Bread is made in two forms; white and brown. The only significant difference is that the brown version uses both white and whole wheat flours. Irish whole wheat flour is very coarse, so try and find a grind like that. Finely ground will work, but not as well. King Arthur sells what they call Irish Style Flour. It’s coarser than regular whole wheat, but not as coarse as the true gelt. Even so, it’s a good substitute. Stone ground whole wheat comes even closer, if you can find it.

There are, it goes without saying, numerous variations on these themes, differing primarily with the amounts of each ingredient, or the addition of other ingredients such as sugar. So, once you’ve tried your hands on them, don’t be afraid to experiment as necessary.

Despite the plethora of recipes that include other ingredients, The Society for the Preservation of Irish Soda Bread (yes, there really is such a thing) insists that real soda bread contains only four ingredients: flour, baking soda, sour milk, and salt.

As with so many other things in the culinary world, ya pays yer money and takes yer choices.

Here are basic recipes for the two types:

Irish White Soda Bread
3 ½ cups soft or all-purpose flour
2-3 tbls sugar
1 ½ tsp salt
1 rounded tsp baking soda
1 ½-1 ¾ cups buttermilk

Preheat the oven to 475F. Lightly grease a baking sheet, or line with parchment paper.

In a large bowl, stir together the flour, sugar, salt, and baking soda. Stir in enough buttermilk to make a softish dough. Shape the dough into a large round, about 1 ½ inches thick. Transfer the round to the baking sheet.

Cut an X into the dough, about an inch deep, with a sharp knife. If you want to be traditional, use a fork to prick the dough in each quarter, to let the fairies out.

Immediately put the pan in the oven, and bake 35-40 minutes. The bread should sound hollow with tapped on the bottom. If not, turn it over directly on the oven rack, and bake 5-10 minutes more.

Wrap the bread in a slightly dampened tea towel, and leave it, wrapped, to cool on a wire rack.

Irish Brown Soda Bread

4 cups coarse whole wheat flour
1 ½ cups soft or all-purpose flour
1 tsp salt
1 rounded tsp baking soda
2 cups (approx.) buttermilk

Preheat oven to 400F. Prep a baking sheet as above.

Mix he dry ingredients in a large bowl. Stir in enough buttermilk to make a fairly soft dough. Form into a round about 1 ½ inches thick. Transfer to the baking sheet.

Cut a deep X across the top of the dough with a sharp knife. Don’t forget the fairies!

Bake for about 45 minutes until bread is browned and sounds hollow with tapped on the bottom. Wrap in a slightly dampened tea towel and cool on a wire rack.

TRADITIONAL IRISH PLAIN SCONES

Scones, plain and fancy, are a traditional part of Irish breakfasts and teas. Although this is a simple version, many of them are perked up with the addition of fruits---particularly raisins---cheese, or even oatmeal.

2 cups all-purpose flour
Pinch salt
1 rounded tsp baking soda
½ stick butter
½ cup buttermilk
Egg wash for glaze (optional)

Preheat a very hot oven, 450F.

Sift the dry ingredients into a mixing bowl. Cut in the butter and rub it in to make a mixture like fine breadcrumbs. Make a well in the center and add enough milk to make a soft dough, just firm enough to handle.

Turn out the dough onto a floured work surface and roll or pat it out to a thickness of about an inch. Stamp out rounds or cut into squares or triangles with a sharp knife.

Lay the scones on a floured baking sheet. Glaze with the egg wash, if using.

Bake for about 7-10 minutes, until brown and well-risen.

IRISH BOXTY BREAD

Here we have an indication about how popular boxty is. The basic ingredients have been manipulated into a bread. As it turns out, it’s become one of my favorites.

7 starchy potatoes, matched for size, about 1 ¾ lbs total
2 tbls butter     
2/3 cup milk (buttermilk pref)
2 tsp salt     
1/4 tsp white pepper
1 ½ tsp dill or caraway seeds (opt)     
2 ¾ cup all-purpose flour
5 tsp baking soda

Preheat the oven to 375F. Peel four of the potatoes, cut them into even chunks, and bring to a boil in a large saucepan. Simmer gently until soft, about 20 minutes. Drain well and mash with the butter until smooth.

Meanwhile, peel the remaining potatoes and grate coarsely. Wrap in a clean cloth and squeeze tightly to wring out the moisture. Put the grated potatoes in a large bowl with the milk, ¾ teaspoon salt, the pepper, and herb seeds if using. Beat in the mashed potatoes.

Sift the flour, baking powder, and remaining salt onto the potato mixture. Mix to a smooth dough, adding a little more flour if the mixture is too soft.

Knead very lightly, then shape into four flat, round loaves about 4 inches in diameter. Place on a nonstick baking sheet. Mark each loaf with a large cross. Bake in the preheated oven for 40-45 minutes, or until well-risen and golden brown.

Break each loaf into quarters. Serve warm, spread with butter.

Given the number of traditional Celtic festivals and Christian feast days, the Irish naturally have celebration breads. Perhaps the most well known is:

IRISH BARMBRACK BREAD

One of the very few traditional breads made with yeast, Barmbrack is associated with Samhain (Halloween). It’s a time when gates between the normal world and the other world are open, and humans can mingle with the Fairy folk.
     As with the King’s Cake of Mardi Gras, objects such as rings, coins, and so forth, are often baked into the Barmbrack, each with a symbolic meaning.
     There are numerous versions of Barmbrack bread. This one is really different, as it brings tea to the table, as the liquid.


4 cups unbleached bread flour
2 tbls butter
¼ cup superfine sugar, divided use
2 tsp instant yeast
½ tsp ground ginger
¼ tsp ground nutmeg
1 cup golden raisins
1 cup currants
¼ cup mixed candied peel, chopped
1 ¼ cups strong, warm tea

Put the flour into a mixing bowl and rub in the butter until the mixture resembles breadcrumbs. Stir in 1 teaspoon of the sugar, then add the yeast, ginger, and nutmeg. Mix well. Stir in the raisins, currants, and mixed peel.

Make a well in the center of the mixture, and work in enough of the warm tea to make a soft, but not sticky, dough. Knead well until the dough leaves the sides of the bowl cleanly.

Transfer to a lightly floured work surface, and knead about 10 minutes (or 5 minutes if using a stand mixer). Put the dough in a lightly oiled bowl, cover with plastic film, and set aside to rise until doubled in bulk, about an hour. Punch down the dough and shape into a large round and place on a lightly oiled baking sheet. Cover with oiled plastic film, and set aside until the dough has again doubled in bulk, about 30 minutes.

Preheat oven to 450F.

Shape the dough into a lightly oiled and lined large loaf pan, and bake 15 minutes. Rotate the pan, and lower the temperature to 400F, and bake 20 minutes more until the bread is well risen, golden brown, and sounds hollow when tapped on the bottom

Dissolve the remaining sugar in 1 tablespoon hot water and brush the syrup over the loaf. Return to the oven for two minutes.

Let cool on a wire rack.

Finally, I’d be remiss to not include one of the contemporary yeast breads:

IRISH OATMEAL & POTATO BREAD

Although yeast entered the Irish culinary world about a century ago, the past three decades have seen an upsurge in the development of yeasted breads, thanks primarily to the emergence of country house restaurants and upscale pubs. In most cases, such as this, they maintain their Irish heritage while using modern ingredients and techniques.

Oil for oiling     
1 cup mashed potatoes
3 ½ cups bread flour     
1 ½ tsp salt
3 tbls butter, diced     
1 ½ tsp instant yeast
3 tbls rolled oats     
2 tbls skim milk powder*
Scant 1 cup lukewarm water*     
1 tbls water
1 tbls rolled oats

Oil a 9x5x3 inch loaf pan. Put the potatoes in a large pan, add water to cover, and bring to a boil. Cook 20-25 minutes until tender. Train, then mash until smooth. Let cool.

Sift the flour and salt into a warmed bowl. Rub in the butter with your fingertips. Stir in the yeast, sugar, oats, and milk powder. Mix in the mashed potato, then add the water and mix to a soft dough.

Turn out the dough onto a lightly floured surface and knead 5-10 minutes, or until smooth and elastic. Put the dough in an oiled bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and let rise until doubled in size, about an hour.
Turn out the dough again and knead lightly. Shape into a loaf and transfer to the prepared pan. Cover and let rise 30 minutes. Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 425F.

Brush the surface of the loaf with the water and carefully sprinkle over the oats. Bake in the preheated oven for 25-30 minutes. Transfer to a wire rack and let cool slightly Serve warm.

*Or substitute skim milk for the powder and water.



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But we hae meat and we can eat
And sae the Lord be thanket


Posted By: TasunkaWitko
Date Posted: 19 September 2018 at 08:17
Those look like some great breads, Brook - I've made the Irish soda bread before, and have really enjoyed it. Like you, I also eventually thought of it as a big biscuit, and the concept clicked in nicely.

With the Barmbrack Bread, would you say that you could taste the addition of the tea in it? With the other flavours, I'm guessing that it was pretty good!

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Posted By: HistoricFoodie
Date Posted: 19 September 2018 at 22:28
The Barmbrack is pretty much on the sweet side, Ron. So, no, I wouldn't say I could taste the tea specifically.

I would have to compare it to one made with a different liquid to see if there's a difference. 


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But we hae meat and we can eat
And sae the Lord be thanket


Posted By: HistoricFoodie
Date Posted: 21 September 2018 at 11:21

As should be obvious, by now, the Irish do not, in general, gussy-up their food with a lot of spices or sauces.  They prefer the taste of the meat or veggie to come through on its own. The notable exceptions are celebratory foods, such as Spiced Beef, which we’ll discuss further below.

When it comes to main dishes, this let-it-shine philosophy is particularly evident.  Salt, pepper, a limited range of herbs, along with aromatic veggies, pretty much sums it up. The results, while not the boldest flavors in the culinary world, are far from bland. 

Ireland also produces an incredible array of proteins, including beef, pork, lamb, poultry, game of all kind, and a diversity of seafoods, including shellfish, finfish, and crustations.  

Although most people associate Irish cuisine with lamb, pork was, historically, the protein of choice, and Ireland consumes it, in diverse ways, to this day.  Beef is very popular, particularly when it comes to Sunday roast. And, the fact is, the Irish are as passionate about steak as any New Yorker. 

Spiced Beef, a hallmark of celebration food, is an exception to the spice-it-up rule. Originally a dish made only at Christmas, it’s now served year-round; a similar syndrome to our own turkey dinner, which used to be strictly a Thanksgiving dish. There are various recipes for it, but the procedure is the same. A spicy rub is used to coat the roast. Among the spices used are sugar, salt, black pepper, allspice, juniper berries, nutmeg, bay leaves, ginger, coriander, and cloves. This is set aside, depending on the recipe, for from three days to two weeks, rolling the meat in the spices at least once daily. The roast is finished by simmering on the stove.

Given the expense of the spices, and the time involved, you can see why it’s not made very often.

Stews and casseroles are very common. This makes sense, considering that stoves, as such, were late comers to the Irish kitchen. Well into the 20 century, Irish housewives, especially in rural areas, were still cooking over turf fires, with a bastable as the main utensil.  

The following recipes were chosen not only because they are tasty, but to demonstrate the various ways proteins are handled on the Emerald Isle.

IRISH POT-ROASTED BEEF

 Full disclosure: I have not actually made this dish. Two reasons. First, there’s only the two of us, and there’s no way we could eat a whole roast. Second. Have you priced top cuts of beef? Maybe when the second mortgage is approved we’ll give this a try.

     That said, it shows how the Irish prepare foods a little out of the box.  And sounds good, to boot. 

4 lb beef roast     

1 ½ cups beef stock

Beef drippings     

Salt & pepper

Thyme leaves (optional)

Grainy mustard (optional)

Roux (optional)

 Heat a little beef fat dripping in a heavy casserole, brown the meat on all sides, and season with salt and freshly ground pepper. Sprinkle with thyme leaves or smear the beef with grainy mustard if using. Cover with a lid and cook on the lowest heat possible for 2 ½-3 hours. The beef can also be transferred to a preheated low oven, at 275F.

 When the roast is cooked, remove to a served plate and make a little gravy in the casserole dish: skim off the fat from the meat juices, add the stock, bring to a boil and simmer for a few minutes. Taste and add seasoning if necessary. Thicken lightly with a little roux if you like.

Serve the pot-roasted beef with the gravy. The traditional accompanying vegetables would have been carrots and potatoes.

 IRISH BEEF & GUINNESS CASSEROLE

 We looked at Beef & Guinness Pie above, and I mentioned that the same approach, without the crust, had been used to make stews almost as soon as Guinness was introduced. This is one of innumerable versions. Note the similarities, but, the differences, too.2 tbls olive oil       

2 lbs stewing beef cut in thin slices

1 onion, chopped

2 leeks, sliced

2 carrots, sliced   

2 garlic cloves, finely chopped

2 celery sticks, sliced                                                             

1 ¼ cups well reduced beef stock

2/3 cup Guinness  

¼ cup butter         

3 oz streaky bacon                                                                 

4 oz mushrooms, quartered

2 oz shallots or small onions, whole                                       

1/3 cup all-purpose flour

Salt and pepper

 Heat the oil in a pan and brown the meat. Transfer to a casserole. Sauté the onion, leeks, carrots, and celery in the same pan, five minutes.  Add the vegetables to the meat and add the garlic. Add the stock and the Guinness. Season with salt and pepper. Cover the casserole, bring to the boil, reduce heat and simmer for about 1 ½ hours.

 Remove the meat from the casserole and strain the cooking liquid. Reserve. Discard the vegetables.

Clean the casserole and sauté the bacon, mushrooms, and shallots in the butter for 5-10 minutes. When the vegetables are tender, sprinkle in the flour and cook, stirring, over low heat for 2-3 minutes, then slowly blend in the reserved cooking liquid. Return the meat to the casserole and reheat.

 Serve with mashed potatoes. 

IRISH LAMB & CARROT CASSEROLE

 I really love this dish, which, in a sense, is a twist on Irish stew. Lamb, carrots, and barley are three of the favorite Irish ingredients, and we find all of them in this one plate. I prefer making it in the oven, but the stove-top would work as well.

   Ideally, lamb neck would be the ideal choice. But it’s unavailable here, so I used the leg instead. 

1 ½ lbs stewing lamb                                                             

1 tbls oil

2 onions, sliced    

1 ½ lbs carrots, sliced thick

4-6 celery stalks, sliced                                                          

3 tbls pearl barley 

Stock or water      

Salt & pepper to taste

Chopped fresh parsley for garnish

 Trim lamb and cut in bite-sized pieces. Heat the oil in a flameproof casserole and brown on all sides. Add the vegetables to the casserole and fry them briefly with the meat. Add the barley and enough stock to cover. Season to taste.

Cover the casserole and simmer gently or cook kin a slow oven (300F) 1-1 ½ hours until the meat is tender. Add extra stock during cooking if necessary.

Serve garnished with the chopped parsley.

IRISH CHICKEN WITH WALNUT AND APPLE

This is a fairly simple, yet elegant dish. I wouldn’t hesitate to serve it at a dinner party. Perhaps because my breasts were on the large size, there wasn’t enough sauce to nap the breasts fully, which I believe is the intent. Next time I’ll double it. 

4 tbls butter          

½ lg cooking apple, chopped

4 sage leaves, finely chopped                                                

3 oz walnuts, chopped

Salt & pepper to taste                                                            

4 lg chicken breasts

2 tbls all-purpose flour                                                           

1 egg, beaten

¾ cup breadcrumbs                                                                

1 tbls oil

Generous ½ cup cream                                                           

Paprika to taste

In a small pan, melt 1 tablespoon of the butter and add the apple, sage, and walnuts. Cook gently until the apple is just beginning to soften and the walnuts beginning to color. Set aside to cool, and season well.

Make a long, deep, lengthwise incision in each chicken breast. Divide the filling among the breasts, pushing it well into the pockets.  Season and flour the breasts, dip each one in egg, and then roll in breadcrumbs Secure edges with toothpicks.

In a large pan, melt 2 tablespoons butter with the oil and fry the chicken gently, turning once or twice, until cooked and golden but still moist, about 5-7 minutes on each side. Remove the chicken and keep warm.

Wipe any burned crumbs from the pan with paper towels and pour in the cream. Add any remaining stuffing or crumbs, season well with salt, pepper, and paprika, and let it bubble up for a few moments, scraping the sediment.  Whisk in the remaining butter and pour the sauce over the chicken.

IRISH POT ROASTED PORK STEAKS

Pork steak, in Ireland, is what we, in America, call pork loin. This filled-pork recipe goes one step further, and uses tenderloins. It’s important that you match them for size for the dish to work properly.

On the other hand, there’s no reason you can’t use an actual loin for this. Butterfly it, pound it out a little to thin it down and create an even thickness. Pile the filling on one half of the loin, fold it over, and truss with kitchen twine.

4 pork tenderloins

Lard or soft butter

Flour                  

1 ¼ cups chicken stock or water

For the stuffing:          

2 tbls butter          

1 onion, finely chopped                                                         

1 lb freshly cooked potatoes                                                  

1 tbls chopped parsley

Thyme (optional)  

Salt & pepper to taste

Make the stuffing:  Melt the butter in a heavy saucepan, add the onion, cover and sweat over gentle head, 8-10 minutes. Meanwhile peel and mash the cooked potatoes, add the softened onion and chopped parsley and thyme, if using. Season with salt & pepper

Trim the fillets, leaving what little fat there is. Butterfly each filet, and season with salt and pepper. Spread filling over one butterflied fillet, cover with the second fillet, and truss. Smear with lard or butter.

Heat a heavy casserole, preferably oval. Brown the fillets on each side. Cover with wax paper and the lid. 

Cook on a gentle heat on stove top, or put into a preheated oven at 350F for 45 minutes to an hour, basting every now and then.

Transfer pork to serving dish. Skim the fat from the cooking juices, return them to the casserole, add a little flour and stir well. Return to the heat and cook for a minute or two, then add the chicken stock, bring to a boil, stirring all the time, to dissolve the caramelized sediment. Correct seasoning. Strain into a gravy boat and serve with the pork fillets, cut into thick slices.

IRISH FISH CAKES

(adapted)

The original recipe for these fish cakes uses pinhead oats and a specialized technique for coating with them. Try as I might, I couldn’t get it to work; the oats just wouldn’t stick. But I liked the idea of using oats as the breading, so ground them a bit finer, then set up a standard 3-bowl breading station. It worked just fine.

8 oz leftover fish (cod, salmon, haddock. Some smoked adds flavor)

2 tbls butter          

1 onion, finely chopped

1 cup mashed potatoes                                                           

1 egg

1 tbls chopped parsley                                                           

Salt & white pepper to taste

Seasoned flour     

1 egg, beaten

Ground oatmeal   

Butter & oil for frying

Melt the butter in a saucepan, toss in the onion, cover, and sweat until soft but not browned, about 5 minutes. Scrape into a bowl. Add the mashed potato and fish, egg, and parsley (or mixture of fresh herbs). Season with salt and pepper.

Form the mixture into patties, about 2 ounces each.  Dust with flour, dip in egg, then coat with oatmeal. Chill in fridge until ready to use.

Heat equal parts butter and oil in a skillet. Fry the fish cakes until golden, 3-4 minutes per side.

Serve with garlic butter or parsley sauce.

IRISH PARSLEY SAUCE 

¼ cup butter                                     

½ cup all-purpose flour

1 tbls lemon juice                              

4 tbls parsley, chopped fine

2/3 cup milk                                       

Salt & pepper to taste

2 cups chicken stock                         

Parsley sprigs for garnish

Melt butter in a pan, add the flour, and cook, stirring, for 1 minute. Gradually stir in the stock and ring to boil. Add the lemon juice, parsley, and milk. Adjust the seasoning and simmer the sauce another 1-2 minutes.

 

 

 

 



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But we hae meat and we can eat
And sae the Lord be thanket


Posted By: TasunkaWitko
Date Posted: 24 September 2018 at 11:08
As we head into some cooler weather, all of these look very good, Brook - Thank you for sharing them!

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Posted By: HistoricFoodie
Date Posted: 25 September 2018 at 10:39
When it comes to salads and sides, Ireland has a grand diversity. This stands to reason in a country that remains, essentially, rural, and where kitchen gardens are more the norm. In addition, foraging has a long tradition, which adds more to the vegetable larder.

Cabbage, of course, is king, coming right after potatoes in popularity. Roots, themselves, are available in a wide array, and include parsnips, carrots, beets, turnips, and rutabaga, in addition to the venerable potato. Here are some of the salads and sides that struck our fancy:

IRISH BUTTERED CABBAGE

If your idea of cabbage is the watery mess often served with corned beef, you’re in for a surprise. True Irish cabbage is cooked to the tender-crisp stage, and is as far from that over-cooked glop as you can get.

1 lb cabbage     
2-4 tbls butter
Salt & pepper to taste     
Extra knob of butter

Remove rough outer leaves from the cabbage. Cut the cabbage into four, remove the core and then cut each quarter into fine shreds, working across the grain.      

Put 2-3 tablespoons of water into a wide saucepan, together with the butter and a pinch of salt. Bring to a boil, add the cabbage and toss over high heat, then cover the saucepan and cook for a few minutes. Toss again and add some salt, freshly ground pepper, and the knob of butter. Serve immediately.

IRISH SAUTEED CABBAGE WITH BACON

As noted above, corned beef and cabbage is virtually unknown in Ireland. What they do serve, however, is corned beef and bacon. Keep in mind, that “bacon” doesn’t mean pork belly, as it does here, but is, rather, a top cut. Canadian bacon makes a good substitute.
     On the Emerald Isle, they prefer savoy cabbage, or, even better, what they call “spring” cabbage---the earliest heads that form. But regular cabbage works just fine.


½ lb cubed Canadian bacon     
2 tbls oil
2 tbls white wine vinegar     
1 tsp sugar
1 tsp caraway seeds     
1 ¼ lbs shredded cabbage
1 large apple, peeled & chopped     
Salt and pepper

In a large pan, cook the bacon cubes until crisp. Remove from pan and keep warm. Pour off the fat from the pan and add the vinegar, sugar, caraway seeds and 6 tablespoons of warm water. Boil for a few moments, scraping up any sediment from the bottom of the pan.

Add the cabbage and apple and cook, turning frequently, until the cabbage is just tender and the apple is soft and melting, 7-8 minutes. Season with salt and pepper and sprinkle the bacon on top.

IRISH GRATIN OF PARSNIPS AND PEARS

Parsnips are the second most popular root vegetable in Ireland. They’re used in dozens of recipes, alone, or in combination with other ingredients. The Irish love of parsnips goes way back. For example, the anonymous author of “The Present State of Ireland,” written in 1673, writes that the Irish “feed much upon parsnips, potatoes, and watercress.”
     Here are just two of the recipes we’ve enjoyed:


3-4 large parsnips     
3 large pears
Salt & pepper     
1 tbls lemon juice
3 tbls butter     
Grated nutmeg
¼ cup breadcrumbs tossed in 1 tbls melted butter

Preheat oven to 350F.

Peel parsnips. Cut into quarters, lengthwise, then into chunks. Peel and core pears and coarsely chop. Put the pears and parsnips in a saucepan with a little salt, the lemon juice, and barely enough water to cover. Simmer gently until soft. Drain thoroughly and mash with the butter until smooth and creamy, adding salt, pepper, and a good dash of nutmeg.

Transfer to an ovenproof casserole and sprinkle the breadcrumbs over the top. Bake 15-20 minutes until golden brown.

IRISH PARSNIP CAKES WITH CRISPY BACON

I]Don’t forget that “streaky bacon” is the kind we’re used to. If you can’t find slab bacon, use thick-cut, and slice it in lardons about a quarter inch wide.

1 lb parsnips     
2-4 tbls butter
Salt and pepper     
Seasoned flour
1 beaten egg     
White breadcrumbs
Olive oil & butter for frying     
Streaky bacon, cut in ¼ inch cubes and fried until crisp
Watercress for garnish

Peel the parsnips, cut into small chunks, and cook in a little boiling salted water until soft. Mash with the butter, season with salt and pepper.

Wet hands and shape the mixture into six cakes. Dip each cake into the flour, then the egg, then coast with the breadcrumbs.

Heat a little olive oil with some butter in a wide frying pan. Fry the cakes on a gentle heat until golden on both sides.

Serve hot with lardons of crispy bacon or as an accompaniment to a main course, garnished with sprigs of fresh watercress.

IRISH PEAS AND LETTUCE

Cooked lettuce is rarely found in the United States, except in some isolated regions. Eastern Kentucky’s Wilted Lettuce Salad comes to mind. In Europe, cooked lettuce is more common.
     Gem Lettuce is a small, headed lettuce, resembling a baby romaine. It’s not common in the U.S., but hearts of romaine make a good substitute. I found that 1 ½ hearts work well in this recipe:

1 lb frozen petit peas, thawed
4 heads little gem lettuce
2 tbls butter
3-4 scallions, white bulbs and part of the green stems, chopped
Generous ½ cup cream
Chopped chervil or basil
Salt and pepper

Drain the peas well. Wash lettuce, remove damaged leaves, and cut each into 8 lengthwise slices.

Melt the butter in a large pan and gently cook the scallions. Add the peas, lettuce, cream, herbs, and seasoning. Cover for 5 minutes or so to soften the lettuce, but do not let it break up. Remove the lid and simmer, gently, about 8 minutes more.

We’ll look at some additional sides and salads next time.


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But we hae meat and we can eat
And sae the Lord be thanket


Posted By: HistoricFoodie
Date Posted: 28 September 2018 at 09:36

Here are a few more sides and salads from the Irish repertory:

 IRISH GRATIN OF SHALLOTS

Alliums are very popular in Ireland, both as aromatics, and eaten as vegetables. Plain roasted onions, for instance, grace many dinner plates. Others alliums include scallions, garlic (including a wild version similar to our own ramps), leeks, and, as in this case, shallots.

8 banana shallots or small onions                                        

2 tbls apple juice concentrate                                                

6 tbls olive oil      

½ tbls chopped thyme or rosemary

½ tsp black pepper                                                                 

Sea salt flakes      

2/3 cup coarse breadcrumbs                                                  

1 cup shredded cheddar cheese

1 tbls chopped parsley for garnish

Preheat oven to 425F. Peel shallots, slice in half lengthwise, and put in a shallow bowl.

Whisk together the apple juice concentrate, 4 tablespoons of the olive oil, and the thyme. Pour the mixture over the shallots, turning to coat well.

Transfer the contents of the bowl into a small nonstick roasting pan in which the shallots fit in a single layer. Turn the shallots cut-side up and season with the pepper and a good pinch of sea salt flakes. Sprinkle with the bread crumbs and remaining oil.

Roast in the preheated oven for 25-30 minutes, or until the shallots are soft and the edges beginning to blacken.  Scatter the cheese over the top and roast an additional 3 minutes, or until the cheese is melted and bubbling.

Garnish with the parsley and serve immediately.

IRISH ORANGE, CELERY, AND WATERCRESS SALAD

This is a light, refreshing salad, similar in nature to the orange & onion salads found in many parts of the world. Although the recipe doesn’t specify, I prefer it made with red onions. In most of Ireland, the watercress would be wild-crafted, as it grows commonly throughout the island. 

2-3 oranges          

1-2 bunches watercress

6-8 celery sticks, thinly sliced                                                

1 small onion, finely chopped

2 tbls olive oil       

1 tbls lemon juice

Salt and paprika to taste 

Peel oranges, removing as much white pith as possible. Rinse the watercress and gently shake dry.

Arrange the cress on a serving dish, with the celery. Thinly slice the oranges and arrange on top. Sprinkle the onion on top of the oranges and season with salt.

Dress the salad with oil and lemon juice, and sprinkle a little paprika over the top. 

IRISH GLAZED CARROTS 

If you like carrots, you’ll enjoy this take on them. If you don’t, give this recipe a try, and you might change your mind. 

1 lb carrots, peeled                                                                 

1 ½ tbls butter

½ cup cold water

Pinch salt

Goodly pinch sugar

Parsley or mint for garnish

Slice carrots 1/3-inch thick. Put in a saucepan with the butter, water, salt, and sugar. Bring to a boil, cover, and cook over a gentle heat until tender, by which time the liquid should all have been absorbed into the carrots. If not, remove lid and increase heat until all the water has evaporated. Correct seasoning.

Shake the pan so carrots become coated with the buttery glaze. Serve in a hot vegetable dish, garnished with parsley or mint.

IRISH PICKLED BEETS AND ONION SALAD

Although identified as a salad, we prefer these lightly pickled beets as a side dish. You can cook the beets by boiling them, if you like. I prefer roasting them, in all applications, because it provides a better flavor, and the beets do not get watery. I also cut them in batons, rather than slices. If you’re not used to working with beets, they peel easier when still hot.

1 lb cooked beets 

1 ¼ cups sugar

2 ½ cups water     

1 onion, thinly sliced                                                              

1 ¼ cups white wine vinegar

Peel and slice the beets.

Dissolve the sugar in water, bringing it to a boil. Add the sliced onion and simmer for 3-4 minutes. Add the vinegar, pour over the peeled beets, and leave to cool.



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But we hae meat and we can eat
And sae the Lord be thanket


Posted By: TasunkaWitko
Date Posted: 28 September 2018 at 09:43
Brook -

We've been eating a bastardized hybrid of the buttered cabbage and sautéed cabbage with bacon for years - very good stuff and - as you say - best when there is still a little crunch in the cabbage.

I like the look of the gratin of shallots, and will certainly be giving the pickled beets and onion a try. Other recipes look very good, too.

Thanks for posting!

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Posted By: HistoricFoodie
Date Posted: 28 September 2018 at 10:15

As should be obvious, I’ve fallen in love with Irish cuisine, and will certainly continue my exploration of it. But it’s time to bring this thread to a close.

What better way to end an Irish meal than with Irish Coffee, a simple mixture of sugar, coffee, Irish whiskey, and cream that turns into ambrosia?

The origins of Irish Coffee, as so often is the case, are shrouded in controversy, with several claimants.

The best version I’ve heard: A group of Americans had their flight shortened in 1942 due to weather. Joe Sheridan, head chef at the flying boat base restaurant, added whiskey to the coffee, to warm them up. When asked if it was Brazilian coffee, he replied, “No, it’s Irish Coffee.”

Hold that thought.

Later on, the cream, along with the special technique for adding it, became part of the recipe. Most references say this modification was added by “an anonymous chef” at Shannon Airport, specifically for the burgeoning tourist trade.  By then, Sheridan had moved to Shannon, so it’s possible, nay, probable, that he made that change.  In 1952, Sheridan moved to San Francisco, which is, of course, the heartland of Irish Coffee in America. It’s likely he introduced it there.

Eventually, a particular glass became part of the tradition. If you don’t have them, don’t worry about it. But Irish Coffee should be served in a glass, so the layers show.

Two things of importance: First, the method of adding the cream (which, by the way, is never whipped enough to form peaks) is crucial, so that it floats on the surface. Second, the coffee is drunk through the cream. They are not stirred together.

IRISH COFFEE

1 ½ tbls Irish whiskey (I prefer Jameson’s Black Barrel)

2/3 cup strong, black coffee

Raw sugar (some claim only brown sugar is correct) to taste

¼ cup (approx.) lightly whipped chilled cream

Measure the whiskey into a stemmed glass or one with a handle. Pour in enough freshly made strong black coffee to come to about ½-3/4 inch from the top.

Sweeten to taste and stir vigorously to dissolve the sugar and create a small whirlpool in the glass. Immediately top the coffee with the cream by pouring it over the back of the spoon, so it settles on the top to make a distinct layer in contrast to the dark coffee underneath.

Serve immediately!


 



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But we hae meat and we can eat
And sae the Lord be thanket


Posted By: TasunkaWitko
Date Posted: 28 September 2018 at 10:27
I wouldn't mind a cup of that right now; we woke up to our first frost, this morning....





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Posted By: HistoricFoodie
Date Posted: 28 September 2018 at 10:44
Not a bad thought, Ron. But you surely don't have to wait for cold weather to enjoy a cup.

I had my first Irish Coffee years ago, at Fisherman's Wharf in San Francisco. Was the middle of the summer, as I recall. But was just as good as if it had been January.  


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But we hae meat and we can eat
And sae the Lord be thanket



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