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Salumi flavours of Liguria

Printed From: Foods of the World Forum
Category: Europe
Forum Name: Italy
Forum Discription: From the northern snow-covered Alps to the hot southern beaches of Apulia, Italy’s regions encompass everything good.
URL: http://foodsoftheworld.ActiveBoards.net/forum_posts.asp?TID=5132
Printed Date: 21 October 2018 at 22:19


Topic: Salumi flavours of Liguria
Posted By: Ces
Subject: Salumi flavours of Liguria
Date Posted: 05 October 2018 at 22:01
Hi guys,

Brand new to the forum. Had a quick look around and it seems like there's some great information on here.

A few years ago I started curing meats at home but as sometimes happens, life got in the way and I haven't put any pork down for a long, salty sleep in quite a while. Good news though. I'm ramping up again!

My favourite salumi to make is coppa (cappicola/cappicolo) and I have usually followed recipes by the authors of 'Charcuterie' and 'Salumi', Ruhlman and Polcyn. This time I'd like to branch out. Way, way back some of my ancestors lived in the Liguria region of Italy, near the town of Asti, and I'd like to make a coppa with flavours they might recognise.

Does anyone know the typical flavour profiles of the salumi and salami from the region? Herbs and spices? Does the finished product have a mild or strong salt flavour? Sugars in the cure?

I'd appreciate any leads on this guys. Thanks in advance. Smile

Cheers,

Ces.



Replies:
Posted By: Hoser
Date Posted: 07 October 2018 at 03:22
Welcome to the forum Ces! Thumbs Up

I don't know too much about Ligurian sausage....obviously the first thing that comes to mind is Genoa salami.

Here's a link to an article you may find helpful. 

http://www.nytimes.com/1990/01/28/travel/a-cuisine-of-humble-origins.html - https://www.nytimes.com/1990/01/28/travel/a-cuisine-of-humble-origins.html


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Go ahead...play with your food!


Posted By: Ces
Date Posted: 07 October 2018 at 20:14
Thanks Hoser,

Great article and a good place to start. appreciate it mate.

Cheers,

Ces.


Posted By: TasunkaWitko
Date Posted: 08 October 2018 at 13:35
Hi, Ces, and welcome to the FotW Forum! We hope that you spend some time here, and that you are able to share a few things, as well.

I took an admittedly quick look, but could not find much pertaining strictly to Liguria; here are a couple of (very) general pages:

https://www.huffpost.com/entry/guide-to-salumi-cured-mea_b_3513074

https://www.rusticocooking.com/curedmeats.htm

Unfortunately, there doesn't seem to be anything that relates directly to your request, but toward the end of the article is a listing of different cured meats by region, with brief descriptions.

If you're looking at some general flavor profiles in Liguria that are related to other foods besides Salumi, this might be helpful:

https://www.thegrandwinetour.com/popular-foods-of-italy/food-of-liguria-traditional-dishes/

I have made a version of the Focaccia di Recco shown in the article, and it was truly amazing.

I did find some other sources, but they were in Italian, and I wasn't able to get much out of them, on the surface. A deeper look with a decent translator might turn more up.

I've got a couple of resources at home, and will try them, as well, when I am able to.

More to come, if I am successful in my search at home....

Ron

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Posted By: Ces
Date Posted: 08 October 2018 at 21:54
Thank you very much, Ron. You really went on a good search. I'll have to pour over the articles and see what I can learn from them.

I'm finding (with the help of others on here) that the region doesn't necessarily lend itself to pasture, and meat from large animals was not traditionally eaten that often. In the last few hundred years the local diet has been largely vegetarian (in terms of Ligurian specialties) with small number of seafood dishes featuring.

Also, the region was heavily influenced by the busy port of Genoa and its returning sailors, who craved fresh, vibrant flavours after months at sea but had also had their fill of fish on their voyage. Hence, fresh herbs are favoured (particularly) basil, and the Ligurians are apparently very proud of the pesto produced from the basil grown locally. I have also learned that while the Venetian mariners and Venetians themselves introduced the spices gathered from far off ports in the east and west into their cuisine, the Genoese preferred to sell them on for greater profit.

So I may be on a bit of a wild goose chase and will have to sort of make a recipe based on Ligurian flavours. Anyone on here used basil in a salumi or salami cure?

Thanks for the help guys.

Cheers,

Ces.


Posted By: TasunkaWitko
Date Posted: 09 October 2018 at 13:17
It looks as though you're getting a good handle on the Ligurian profile, Ces!

I don't know of any salumi specifically featuring basil, but I would be surprised if it didn't exist.

The two books I have on Italy are here:

Culinaria - Italy: http://a.co/d/4lemlaE

Time/Life's Foods of the World - The Cooking of Italy: http://a.co/d/0QZyHLb

Note that the Time/Life book also has a spiral-bound supplement full of recipes: http://a.co/d/a53gF6i

With any of those links above, skip the over-priced "new" offerings, and take a look at the "used" ones that can be had for much less; I am not sure if any are available Down Under, but it is worth a try.

Both books dedicate chapters to Liguria, and might prove helpful in finding some Salumi ideas, as well as information on the region, the people, the foodways and some recipes for various local dishes.

I wasn't able to look through either of them last night, but will try to do so this evening.

Cheers!

Ron

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Posted By: TasunkaWitko
Date Posted: 11 October 2018 at 14:49
Hi, Ces -

I took a look in the Liguria chapter of the Foods of the World book mentioned above; I didn't see any information regarding any salumi or charcuterie, but the flavor profiles featured are pretty much as you describe in your post above, with a heavy emphasis on seafood, herbs, pasta, fresh vegetables and olive oil. In fact, Liguria seems to be the origin of two quintessential facets of Italian cuisine: ravioli and pesto.

There were some very nice recipes, but they mostly featured seafood and pasta, as would be expected in Liguria. There was one recipe for a stuffed veal roast that might make an interesting inspiration for a charcuterie project, as well.

I'll see what my other book has to say, but I'm having a bit of trouble finding it, at the moment! When I do, I'll be sure to report back with any new information.

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Posted By: Margi Cintrano
Date Posted: 11 October 2018 at 15:33
Ces, 

Welcome to  Fotw .. 

Can you read Italian ?

I  have an Italian  salume producer who surely could help answer some of your questions however, Stefano does not speak English ..  

I did an interview on him last February 2018 ..  His salume ( a porc, a Lamb and a  beef )  were to die and go to heaven for !  

Best wishes for a lovely autumn .. 







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Gourmet´s Choice - Time Out In Spain ...

WEBSITE: www.visionsgourmandes.com
www.issuu.com / Beyond Taste, Oltre il Gusto ..


Posted By: Ces
Date Posted: 20 October 2018 at 20:55
Thanks for the help guys. I really appreciate it.

TasunkaWitko, the veal dish sounds interesting. Would mind posting the herbs/spices used in the recipe? That may provide a good jump off point.

Margi, i don't speak Italian but my mother is fluent. It's something she has worked on acquiring later in life and is somewhat of an obsession. Any tips Stefano provided could be translated to me, and mum would get a project to work on. It would be great if you could ask him net time you go to see him. Thank you for the well wishes but I'm in Sydney, Australia and we're in full Spring swing. I do hope you are enjoying the beautiful, northern hemisphere Autumn. The vast majority of Australian native trees are evergreens, so we don't quite get the beautiful colour display so often associated with Autumn.

Thanks again, guys.

Cheers,

Ces.



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