rouladen

 

my german volume of FOTW, despite having a recipe for rouladen, didn't say much about the history of this dish. wikipedia implied that it was most likely originally made with pork or veal, but other than that, not much was said except descriptions that confirmed the authenticy of the FOTW recipe. in the book, the recipe was found in the chapter on dining out in germany, which is a long-standing tradition known as gut essen gehen (dining out well), which is as much a national sport in germany as dieting is in the united states.

 

with that, here's the recipe and a picture form time/life's foods of the world - the cooking of germany (1969):

 

 

Rouladen

 

To serve 6:

 

3 pounds top round steak, sliced ½ inch thick, trimmed of all fat, and pounded ¼ inch thick
6 teaspoons Düsseldorf-style prepared mustard, or substitute 6 teaspoons other hot prepared mustard 1/4 cup finely chopped onions
6 slices lean bacon, each about 8 inches long
3 dill pickles, rinsed in cold water and cut lengthwise into halves
3 tablespoons lard
2 cups water
1 cup coarsely chopped celery
1/4 cup thinly sliced leeks, white part only
1 tablespoon finely chopped scraped parsnip
3 parsley sprigs
1 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon butter
2 tablespoons flour 
 
Cut the steak into 6 rectangular pieces about 4 inches wide and 8 inches long. Spread each rectangle with a teaspoon of mustard, sprinkle it with 2 teaspoons of onions, and place a slice of bacon down the center. Lay a strip of pickle across the narrow end of each piece and roll the meat around it, jelly roll fashion, into a cylinder. Tie the rolls at each end with kitchen cord.

 

In a heavy 10-to 12-inch skillet melt the lard over moderate heat until it begins to splutter. Add the beef rolls, and brown them on all sides, regulating the heat so they color quickly and evenly without burning. Transfer the rolls to a plate, pour the water into the skillet and bring it to a boil, meanwhile scraping in any brown particles clinging to the bottom and sides of the pan. Add the celery, leeks, parsnip, parsley and salt, and return the beef rolls to the skillet. Cover, reduce the heat to low, and simmer for 1 hour, or until the meat shows no resistance when pierced with a fork. Turn the rolls once or twice during the cooking period. Transfer the rolls to a heated platter, and cover with foil to keep them warm while you make the sauce.

 

Strain the cooking liquid left in the skillet through a fine sieve, pressing down hard on the vegetables before discarding them. Measure the liquid, return it to the skillet, and boil briskly until it is reduced to 2 cups. Remove from the heat. Melt the butter in a small saucepan over moderate heat and, when the foam subsides, sprinkle in the flour. Lower the heat and cook, stirring constantly, until the flour turns a golden brown. Be careful not to let it burn. Gradually add the reduced cooking liquid, beating vigorously with a whisk until the sauce is smooth and thick. Taste for seasoning and return the sauce and the Rouladen to the skillet. Simmer over low heat only long enough to heat the rolls through. Serve the rolls on a heated platter and pour the sauce over them. Rouladen are often accompanied by red cabbage and dumplings or boiled potatoes.