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Sopa de Ajo

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TasunkaWitko View Drop Down
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    Posted: 09 May 2011 at 10:22
From Time-Life’s Foods of the World – The Cooking of Spain and Portugal, 1969:
 
Quote Sopa de Ajo
Spicy Garlic Soup

To serve 6-8

½ cup olive oil
2 tablespoons finely-chopped garlic
3 cups coarsely crumbled French or Italian bread, trimmed of all crusts
½ teaspoon paprika
6 cups water
¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper
1 teaspoon salt
2 eggs, lightly beaten
1 tablespoon finely-chopped parsley (optional)

In a heavy, 3- to 4-quart saucepan, warm the olive oil over low heat. Add the garlic, stirring frequently. Cook for 2 or 3 minutes, or until the garlic is soft but not brown. Stir in the crumbled bread, raise the heat to moderate and cook until the bread is golden. Be careful not to let it burn. Stir in the paprika, then add the water, cayenne pepper and salt and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low and simmer uncovered for 30 minutes.

With a large wooden spoon, beat the soup until the bread is thoroughly pulverized. Then slowly pour in the beaten eggs, stirring constantly. Simmer a moment or two (do not let the soup come anywhere near a boil or it will curdle) and taste. The soup should be highly seasoned; add more salt and cayenne pepper if it seems to be too bland. Pour the soup into a heated tureen, or individual soup plates and serve at once garnished if you like with finely-chopped parsley.

From Culinaria Spain, 2004:

Quote Sopa de Ajo
Garlic Soup

8 to 9 slices (250 grams) stale, white bread
6 tablespoons olive oil
6 to 9 cloves garlic, chopped
1 tablespoon mild paprika powder
1 tablespoon hot paprika powder
Salt
Generous 4 cups (1 litre) meat stock
4 eggs

Cut the white bread into cubes. Heat the olive oil in a saucepan and fry the bread cubes in it until it is golden brown. Add the garlic, and let it colour a little. Season with the paprika powders and pour in the meat stock. Cover and leave to simmer for 15 minutes.

Fill 4 earthenware bowls with soup. Carefully slip 1 egg into each bowl and leave to cook in a preheated oven at about 390 degrees F (200 degrees C) for around 10 minutes. Serve the soup very hot.

I made this on Saturday night, using a method that incorporated elements of both recipes above. Since I did not want to use cayenne (out of deference to the beautiful Mrs. Tas), I used a combination of "regular" paprika and smoked paprika from Spain -
 
Results were VERY good and I must say this dish is so fundamentally Spanish that if one wants to understand cocina de campesinos, this dish is "resuired eating;" to paraphrase Daisy Martinez, Sopa de Ajo is to Spain what Apple Pie is to America. It is so universal, so humble and so integral to Spanish life, that it is truly a way to understand the people, the history and even the geography of Spain. This simple peasant dish is so quintessentially Spanish that i cannot exaggerate its integral role. It is a very old dish that speaks of the very land from which it comes.
 
Originating in the La Mancha region of Spain, the land of Don Quixote, sopa de ajo was in historic times a meal that carried connotations of poverty, peasantry and humble origins. Since then, it has spread from this central region to all corners of the Iberian Peninsula, with subtle variations here and there typical of whichever province or town one might find oneself when enjoying this humble, satisfying meal.
 
of course, none of this was really on my mind when i got this project started - i just wanted to make something spanish; but as i created this rustic treasure, i came to know, even in faraway north-central montana, something of the spirit of old spain. it was as if i could close my eyes, take in the aroma and travel back in time. try this dish and see if yourself whether or not i am just some romantic dreamer....
 
in spite of the subtle differences in the recipes above, this soup is extremely easy to make. you can choose either method as it is outlined, or you can follow mine here below, which i believe hits a very sweet spot in between the two, making it typical of what one could find in the heart of spain, around madrid.
 
for starters, here are the goods (not pictured: fresh, chopped parsley):
 
 
as you can see, this rustic peasant soup requires nothing special or exotic; i chose to use smoked paprika, and i certainly recommend using it if you have it or can get it, but it is not absolutely necessary for the success of this dish. the same is also true of the broth/stock - water can be used with no sacrifice in authenticity or goodness.
 
the first order of business was to slice the bread and remove the crusts:
 
 
i chose to use an entire loaf of sourdough; you can judge the amount by looking at the size of the loaf. the recipe calls for stale bread, but not having any on hand, i bought this loaf at the grocery in the "reduced-for-quick-sale" bin. it was purchased on its "sell by" date, then i left it out, unwrapped, for a couple-three hours. if you have your own stale home-made bread, i highly recommend it.
 
the recipe says to remove the crust, and i did, but i don't see why this was necessary. next time, i will most likely use the crusts along with the rest of the loaf.
 
next, i cut some of the crustless slices into cubes:
 
 
i did this to compare some cubes with the majority of the bread, which i tore into small pieces which were not uniform:
 
 
it seemed to me that i preferred the final results better with the torn bread bits, but this was a personal preference, and either way will work; this is, after all, peasant cooking, and there are so many "right ways" to do it that you have to try pretty hard to do something wrong!
 
next, i crushed and peeled each garlic clove:
 
 
worthy of note is that i used about ten normal-sized cloves in all, and probably could have used two or four more. for this project, which of course features garlic, i used a combination of purple garlic and white garlic, both grown in mexico. each variety is very savory and very rich, without being overly strong or harsh. this is not in-your-face garlic soup; rather, it is something much more subtle - an essence that wraps around you and lulls you with warmth and peace.
 
after crushing and peeling all of the garlic cloves, i started chopping them:
 
 
the crushing helps to release all of the flavours and juices of the garlic, whilst also making them easy to peel. the chopping of course spreads it around and distributes it throughout the soup. no need to make it all perfectly uniform, this is peasant cooking! 
 
after a few short strokes of the knife, it was all finely chopped:
 
 
and i set the garlic aside, turning my attention to another key component of the dish, the spices:
 
 
here we have a tablespoon each of "regular" paprika and smoked paprika, along with a teaspoon of sea salt. if i were making this for myself, i would have used smoked paprika exclusively, as i truly love the earthy, smokey goodness that it brings to any spanish dish; however, knowing that the beautiful mrs. tas is rather sensitive to exotic flavours, i cut the pimentón de la vera with something a little more familiar to her. similarly, i omitted the cayenne pepper that i would have added, had i been making this for myself.
 
and so, mise en plas complete, i began preparation by heating some extra-virgin olive oil in my dutch oven; when i judged the oil to be hot enough, i dropped in a cube of bread:
 
 
the bubbling and slight sizzling told me that it was just about right, so i added the rest of the bread and began the process of stirring it around on medium heat until all the residual moisture left the bread and it started to get crisp and, for lack of a better word, toasty:
 
 
this process took a little time, but it was definitely time well spent - you want to do this slowly and deliberately so as not to burn the bread. as i stirred them at regular intervals, the pieces, especially the torn ones, broke up around the edges into crumbs; this resulted in pieces ranging froum crouton-sized cubes down to the smallest of crumbs, exactly as it should be. in the realm of spanish cuisine, these frying crumbs are called migas, and they are indeed a treasure, finding their way into all sorts of dishes, sweet, savory and everywhere in-between - even in hot chocolate!
 
when the migas started to get toasty and turn golden, i added the chopped garlic:
 
 
and let it release its goodness into the migas, stirring often, until it too began to just start to get brown. i then added the pimentónes and and the salt together:
 
 
and stirred everything around to coat the migas thoroughly:
 
 
by this time, the aroma permeating the kitchen was really starting to take me across the atlantic, and i was very glad that i had decided to give this one a try.
 
now came the time to turn this into soup, by adding liquid to the party. it would have been correct and fine to simply use water, but much of my research indicated that meat stock could also be used, for richness and depth. this is in keeping with spanish peasant cooking, for flavour, like the breadcrumbs used for migas, is never wasted in the peasant ktchen, and meat stock is something that is in abundant supply. one could use any meat stock, even fish or seafood stock, i imagine, depending on what is available or in what direction the cook wants to push the dish; however, i wanted something that was rather universal, so i settled on equal amounts of chicken and beef, which i have found over the years to give a wonderful, meaty depth that is more than the sum of its components:
 
 
based on the final results, my guesstimation of six cups total was just about right for the amount of bread i used, although i could have probably gone up to 8 cups of liquid and the dish would have suffered neither a jot nor a tittle. 
 
after stirring the stock in and pulverizing the last of the migas, i reduced the heat to low and covered the dutch oven, simmering for about half an hour to allow the flavours to work thei magic with each other. i do recommend stirring once or twice during the simmering in order to keep the bread from sticking to the bottom of the pan, but this is no real danger with a dutch oven, as it can be scraped off the bottom and worked back into the soup with ease.
 
at the end of the half-hour, i ladled the thick, rich, wonderful-smelling soup into individual bowls:
 
 
and broke an egg over the top of each serving:
 
 
this step can be done differently, as described in the FOTW recipe above with two eggs incorporated into the whole pot of soup; or, depending on one's preference, the eggs can be skipped entirely. for myself, i wanted to try this rustic, typically-spanish approach, which i believed would be reminiscent of the peasant household's efforts to put a little protein into a meal, so i added an egg to each bowl of soup:
 
 
here we can see that a couple of egg yolks broke, but no no big deal - it was in fact advantageous due to the fact that two of the intended recipients of tonight's meal preferred their egg yolks broken, so no harm.
 
then, into the pre-heated oven we went at 390 degrees for around 12 minutes, just to make sure the eggs were done:
 
 
i know they look raw, but as i have learned through previous experience, poaching eggs on top of sauces etc. can be a tricky, deceiving affair, and cooking them any longer would most likely result in tough, over-done eggs that taste rubbery. the fact of the matter is they were just right, with the yolks right at the stage where they were just done. as you can see, the colour of the soup also darkened a bit and the true richness and depth of this meal became apparent, not only in its appearance, but also in its aroma ~ all that was left to do was to try it, so supper was served:
 
 
whooops! i almost forgot the freshly-chopped parsley!
 
 
the parsley is in fact more of a northern, galacian touch, but no worries; the colour and freshness that it brings to the soup is worth it, if you like what parsley can do for a dish:
 
 
as for the taste, i cannot describe it in terms that are adequate enough to convey. the garlic was definitely not over-powering or even aggressively assertive, so please do not be fooled by the name of the dish or let it dissuade you from trying it. it was subtle, warm and inviting, just as it should be, and it acted as a perfect conduit between the toasted-bread flavours of the softened migas and the rich meaty broths that carried the earthy paprikas into your senses. this entire dish worked with all its components to bring the essence and spirit of spain to your awareness.  a closer shot shows you just how wonderful this soup looked:
 
 
unfortunately, you can't smell it or taste it through the screen, so you will simply have to try it.
 
the kids who were home and able to try this dish loved it; my dad, who managed to show up just in time for supper, also loved it, although he elected to forego the egg. the beautiful mrs. tas found it to be a bit too different for her preference; however, i must give her credit for trying it, since there are a lot of things about it that she normally wouldn't have anything to do with. 
 
 
for myself, as i stirred the egg and parsley into the soup, incorporating their flavour, colours and richness into the whole, i saw in my mind's eye the rugged plains of la mancha, felt the dry hot breeze on my face, smelled the smokey fires of the hearth and heard the creak of an old windmill turning slowly in the distance as i tasted the flavours of spain. this was a true journey across time and space, and one that i intend to repeat again and again.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hoser Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 May 2011 at 03:09
Magnifico! A tour of Spain through a bowl of garlic soup. Excellent tutorial Ron...makes you want to get through the screen after all those yum yums!

Your photography is top-notch...I love the shots with the eggs in them.

This will absolutely become an appetizer for me at my next paella party, which should be coming up soon...perhaps as early as June if we ever get some warm weather!
Go ahead...play with your food!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TasunkaWitko Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 May 2011 at 07:06
g'morning, dave -
 
you're going to love this soup ~ it really is a great way to experience somethimg that, like paella, is universal throughout spain! 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Boilermaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 May 2011 at 21:03
Beautiful Ron, looks absolutely delicious.  I have  the "Cooking of Spain and Portugal" cookbook and must have missed this recipe.  I will be trying this one for sure.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TasunkaWitko Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 May 2011 at 22:00
andy, this one really called to me when i first opened the book - i've been wanting to try it for a long time, and can't believe i waited so long. i say you should whip up a batch of your no-knead bread and give it a go!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TasunkaWitko Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 May 2011 at 16:48
update - i have a friend in germany who spends much time hunting in spain and has a true appreciation for the life there. here's what he ahd to say when he saw this post:
 
Quote That soup looks delicious, I can even feel the smell and it wakes pleasant memories from Spain! Nothing as authentic and as delicious like the comida campesina, also in other places.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TasunkaWitko Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 January 2012 at 13:03
From a member of another forum who lives in Spain and saw my post:
 
Quote Yes, this is a truly traditional soup in Castilla León from where it had originated. Of course, I live in Madrid, thus, use a Pista de Gallega baguette, which is similar in texture to a French Baguette...it is shaped a baguette, however, the ends are both pointy. Nice warming soup for a frigid day.
 
This humble shepherds´soup is made with densely textured crusty bread, garlic, beef stock or ham hock stock, olive oil and Smoked Spanish Paprika called " pimentón " piquant and sweet. The origins of this soup are clear, a peasant dish hailing from sheep turf in Castilla León and Castilla La Mancha. This dish has been eaten by farmers, peasants, shepherds and currently, business men and women alike. 

I am going to give both of you a "Short Quick Recipe for Garlic Soup " that I prepare during the week when it is extremely grey and cold here in Madrid. Professional people have little time for pansying around in the kitchen during the laboral week -- And most of us, travel to work too. So here is a quick version ... I am going to try your recipe however, with only Spanish products. Thanks for posting it.

Serves 4:

  • 4 cups mineral water ( 1 quart )
  • 1 / 4 cup or 60ml olive oil extra virgin ( 100% hojiblanca and / or 100% arbequina )
  • 4 cloves fresh garlic
  • 315 grams dense French or Italian Chapata Country style loaf ( In Spain: I use Galician Hogaza or Pistola Gallega ) 
  • 1 tsp sweet pimentón * smoked paprika
  • 1/8 tsp piquant pimentón
  • Salt
  • 4 eggs
  • 1 ham hock 

1) boil mineral water with the hock

2) heat the olive oil in a sarten skillet

3) place the bread ( called picatostes in Spanish when you fry bread chunks ) cubes and fry until golden brown and crisp

4) add the paprikas to the cubes

5) add boiled water to the bread concoction

6) add salt to taste ( cautions: hocks are very salty )

7) simmer 1 half hour ( the broth )

8) add an egg by breaking to each bowl and wait until the white sets !

9) garnish with paprika and serve with warm bread and a red wine from Castilla La Mancha or Castilla León

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Marissa Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 February 2012 at 08:28
The Iberian peninsula is our next stop after Southeast Asia.  This soup is high on the list of recipes to make! I've had it in a Spanish restaurant but it was no where near that thick...looks good though! We've made it once before from an "Americanized" version.  Disgusting.  So I'm glad the one in the FotW is a good one!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TasunkaWitko Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 February 2012 at 09:05
hi, marissa ~ i really loved this as i prepared it. i have a feeling that my version was indeed on the thick side, compared to what is actually prepared in spain, but then again, as i always say, there are as many "right" ways to do it as there are cottages in a villages, and villages in a country, so i am sure that some abuela in spain made it this thick ~ it's REALLY good.
 
the FotW version, by the book, calls for the eggs to be worked into the final soup, rather than poached on top. from what i can see, either way is authentic, it's just a matter of preference.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Margi Cintrano Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 February 2012 at 09:31
@ Ron, @ Marissa,
 
Thank you for the reference.
 
Sopa de ajo is humble, simple and shepherd´s meal unto itself ... There are 8 provinces in Castilla León and then, there are 5 Castilla La Mancha provinces and La Vera, Extremadura where the Smoked Paprika hails from --- La Vera, Extremadura ... so considering, it has been a main staple for centuries ...
 
My recipe is just a quick laboral Monday Lunch version ... Ron´s is Sunday 1st course !
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Volamos a Mediterraneo, un paraiso que conquista su gente u su cocina.
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