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The Magic Of Basque Cod Pil Pil

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Margi Cintrano View Drop Down
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    Posted: 22 December 2012 at 07:06
Good Afternoon, Buenas Tardes, Buonasera,
 
The care and preparation of exemplary cuisine is as much a part of the Basque Country as are its green hillsides, its wave beaten coastlines, its ancient language, and its folklore & traditions.
 
The development of the Basque Kitchen Gastronomic Culture, has run parallel to the long history of visitors and this cuisine has won international acclaim and award, in the Belle Époque Era of the early 20th century.
 
Today the Basque products, cuisine, and epicurism has become the pleniptentiary ambassadors of a way of life in the northern Iberian Peninsula. The Basque´s zealousness in terms of traditions is coupled with the region´s geographic setting, a historic place of passage between the Atlantic Ocean and the Pyrenees Mountains. The farm houses safe guard culinary treasures which combine ancestral methods, and foreign contributions of yester year.
 
The Basque involvement in the exploration of the Americas ( north and south ) has provided vegetables, legumes and chili peppers perfectly suited to adaption of the Basque Lands.
 
Moreover, relations with France, have given the Basque traditional cuisines an international presence with the assistance of Master Chefs who trained in French Kitchens, for example; Juan Marí Arzak, Pedro Subijana and Martín Berasateguí.
 
THE BASQUE AND THE SEA ...
 
Basque Fisherman.
 
 
 
The ocean has historically been a giant pantry for the Basque Kitchens. The Basques, together with the Japanese, are still the major consumers of shellfish and seafood on the planet.
 
The Basque Coasts, have always been quite generous in terms of high quality seafood. The spiny lobsters from Armintza in Bizkaia or Igeldo, Donostia, San Sebastián are two examples of seafood excellence. Urdaibai clams and wave battered Goose Barnacles and numerous squid varieties, each having its own season, with the rough seas, and wave beaten coasts, have made this region and outstanding home for uncountable shellfish, scaled and finned fish, and seafood varieties.
 
The Arrantzaleak ( fishermen ) have dedicated their efforts to catching a certain type of sea creature, based on season. 
 
Winter is the time for:  Ergo or Sea Bream, and Hake. 
 
Spring is Anchovy and Tuna Season. 
 
The quintessential fish in today´s  modern Basque gastronomy is the cod fish.  Since cod has to be dried and salted in order to keep for any amount of long shelf life, it tends to be more prevalent in the interior regions of the Basque Country.  Salt cod dishes are common during Lent, and are served: PIL PIL prepared with Evoo and Garlic, producing a  creamed  light sauce when whisked; SALSA VERDE, a parsley  and white wine sauce; Vizcaina prepared with dried red chili peppers and dried red peppers called Piquillos or pointy triangular red sweet peppers. 
 
The Basque People have always been enamoured with tradition, holding on to historical ancestry.
From large scaled ports like Zierbana and Algorta, to the smaller fishing villages such as Bermeo, Getaria, Hondarribia and Orio to name a few off the top of my think tank; the Basque Coast is dotted with venues, specialising in just fish, shellfish and seafood all year long.
 
 
 
Basque Cod fish Pil Pil in earthenware.  
 
Pil Pil means Simmered on slow low flame.
 
 
 
Here is a lovely simple recipe for fresh Cod Fish, called BACALAO AL PIL PIL; or Cod Fish Pil Pil.
 
CODFISH PIL PIL SIMMERED
 
400 GRAMS COD FISH ( fillets to be skin side up )
FRESH PARSLEY CHOPPED VERY FINELY
SALT TO TASTE
4 CLOVES GARLIC
150 CL. EVOO
 
1) wash fish thoroughly and pat dry gently yet thoroughly
2) peel the garlic cloves and slice lengthwise very finely
3) heat the Evoo in earthenware and sauté the garlic slices
4) sauté the cod fish skin side up and whisk the Evoo with garlic very gently thus, it shall become creamy  
5) sprinkle 1 red chili pepper or red chili flakes and salt to taste
6) sauté the cod fish on very low flame slow cooking style ( 20 mins. )
7) sprinkle freshly chopped finely parsley on the cod fish and drizzle the evoo and red chili pepper over cod fish, on plate
 
Though this recipe sounds very simple, and not much to it; it is delightful to the palate. Serve with a sparkling white wine and hot crusty bread to soak up the garlicky Evoo with chili pepper.
 
Enjoy;
Happy Holidays.
Margi Cintrano
 
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TasunkaWitko Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 December 2012 at 11:04
Bacalao al pil pil is a dish that I REALLY want to try ~ I'm betting it would be a good winter project!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Margi Cintrano Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 December 2012 at 11:27
Tas,
 
Good Evening. 
 
I have several recipes from a wide variety of Basque Chefs for this traditional dish, Cod Fish Pil Pil.
 
It is very light, elegant and tasty.  If you have problems obtaining salt cod or fresh cod, or frozen cod; this can be prepared with any delicate semi fatty firm flesh white fish available in Chinook. This recipe is also wonderful though a bit more complicated and it comes from the Bilbao Guggenheim Museum. When I say, semi fat, I mean a fish that has a cod like texture; trout, salmon or cod off top of think tank.
 
Pil Pil means Simmered.
 
4 pieces cod fish
3 dl. extra virgin olive oil
5 cloves of garlic
 
1) first soak the salt cod to get rid of the excess salt
2) remove any scales from the skin and wipe & dry with a clean cloth
3) place an earthenware casserole on a medium hot burner, with Evoo and the cloves of garlic sliced lengthwise in thin slices
4) when the garlic begins to turn golden, remove and set aside
5) add the 4 cod fillets and gently simmer, for about 7 mins. to 8 mins. until it gives when pressed
6) take the casserole off stove, and transfer cod, skin side up, into another casserole and add two tblsps. of hot evoo
7) let the fish sit for 3 mins. to release moisture
8) put casserole dish back on burner over very very low heat and add the rest of the now cooled evoo
9) to thicken the sauce, the casserole must be moved in a continual circular movement motion, and be cautious not to break the fish fillets
10) make sure the sauce does NOT boil as it will prevent the thickening
11) serve the cod, skin side up with enough sauce to totally cover and garnish with slithers of garlic and a light dust of " Pimentón "  or red chili flakes.
 
Enjoy;
Margi.
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TasunkaWitko Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 December 2012 at 11:49
That is one complication; I can get frozen cod fillets, but not salt cod. Cry
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Margi Cintrano Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 December 2012 at 12:29
Tas,
 
Salt Cod:  has formed the base of many meals for the inland regions for a great number of generations, as there was no refrigeration. Cod fish possesses a gelatin and fat used to provide texture, in simple Basque Dishes; and in 1745 Juan de Altamiras, wrote Nuevo Arte de Cocina; the New Art of Cooking.
 
Bacalao, or cod in English was primarily used during Lent ( Cuaresma ) and it was in 1745, when tomatoes were employed also in a dish called BACALAO y TOMATES which is wonderful too.
 
Another Basque historic dish is called PURRUSALDA, which means Simmered Salt Cod, with leeks and potatoes.
 
For more than 100 years, Basque Gastronomes have gathered regularly at Gastronomic Societies in major cities, with an exclusively male clientel, in praise of fine food, and they cook for each other.
The name of these groups are called SOCIEDADES POPULARES GASTRONOMICAS.
 
This is a modern take on Cod prepared by: Chef José Luque of the Madrid Intercontinental Hotel and it is prepared with wild mushrooms ( Ceps or Penny Buns,  called boletus in Spanish ) and gelatine with  cream of wild mushroom bed. Very lovely dish.  
 
 
 
 
 
The Cod Fish, for the Basques, is the Steak to the Americans, so to speak.  Cod is also employed in:
 
1) Buñuelitos - Salt Cod Fish Fritters
2) Red Peppers Stuffed with Cod Fish
3) Bacalao Pil Pil ( Pil Pil denotes Simmered Slow )
4) Bacalao en Salsa Verde ( green sauce )
5) Bacalao a La Vizcaína ( Vizcaya Cod fish, cooked in onion or leek, tomato, bread crumbs, chili pepper, salt pork or bacon, hard boiled egg, Evoo and garlic with Evoo. )
 
I believe you shall have exemplary results with frozen Cod, de-thawed totally and drained.
 
 
A Vanguard Modern Cod Fish Pil Pil.  
 
 
 
 
Here is another version, of the same dish; Simmered Pil Pil Cod;
 
Place the cod fillets, in a pan with water, to cover and simmer gently 20 mins. Remove and pick out any bones; break flesh into small pieces, and set aside.  Reserve 1/2 cup liquid from the fish.
 
Then, heat Evoo, in an earthenware casserole and sauté the garlic in lengthwise slices; until golden brown.  The next step is:  add parsley and the cook, sauté 4 mins. to 5 mins. turning once. Add the reserved liquid, close earthenware tightly and cook on very very low heat. Shake occasionally and simmer 7 mins. Serve in earthenware.
 
Oh yes, try to purchase frozen cod with the fatty belly and just below the head area and / or the salt cod; the fatty belly and the just below the head area and ko ko chas, the neck, are the most luscious.  KO TXA TXAS which are pronounced KO KO CHAS, are the neck and gull area of the cod and are prepared pil pil, and considered a delectable luxury in the Basque Country and major cities. Absolutely divine ...
 
Let me know which recipes you prefer.  
 
 
Kindest,
Margi.
 
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hoser Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 December 2012 at 01:23
Originally posted by TasunkaWitko TasunkaWitko wrote:

That is one complication; I can get frozen cod fillets, but not salt cod. Cry

Ron I'll be happy to hook you up with some salt cod....we have a ton of it around here due to a very high percentage of Portugeuse population. Salt cod is a traditional Christmas meal for many of them and I have a market right down the street.  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Margi Cintrano Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 December 2012 at 01:51
Hoser and Tas,
 
Salt Cod is a very common product amongst the Portuguese, Spanish, and Italians too.
 
There is a large Basque population in Boise, Idaho as well. It was very interesting that I had found an article called The Lost Tribe, and this wonderfull written article, discusses the Basque Immigrants that arrived in this region of Idaho and their culture in Boise.
 
 
Fresh and frozen Cod verses Salt Cod; salt cod must be soaked overnight to lessen the saltiness. Frozen fish; well, this does tend to dampen the flavor; however, if it recently frozen verses a long standing frozen status can make a difference; do please check expiration dates.
 
The salt cod is much more tasty and if going to prepare a Basque Traditional Dish; I would go with the Salt Cod.
 
Hoser: how much is salt cod per pound in Rhode Island ?
 
It is cheaper to buy fresh cod in Madrid Capital; approximately 8 or 9 Euros a Kilo here.
 
Have lovely Sunday,
Margi.
 
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hoser Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 December 2012 at 01:16
As I recall, the last time I checked salt cod was about $9.00 per pound Margi.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Margi Cintrano Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 December 2012 at 01:36
Good Morning Hoser,
 
Fresh cod, in season ( Christmas time through Easter time including Lent ) runs between 8.oo Euros to 9.oo Euros a Kilo. 
 
Salt Cod:  is quite a bit more expensive than fresh, strangely enough; El Corte Inglés International Supermarket has several cut types and runs from 17.oo Euros a kilo to 28.oo Euros a Kilo.
 
There are shops that specialise in selling salted Cod as well.
 
 
Salt Cod - Bacalao Salado.  
Fishery: Aldeas Gallegas.  
 
I usually buy fresh at the Central Main Market in my nieghborhood, at the Fish Monger´s. Since I have been purchasing from Miguel and his Sons for many years, I can order however, I recall paying quite a bit less; about 13.00 Euros to 14.00 Euros for lengthwise thick slab cut type.
 
Happy Holidays,
Margi.    
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TasunkaWitko Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 December 2012 at 08:46
Originally posted by Hoser Hoser wrote:

Originally posted by TasunkaWitko TasunkaWitko wrote:

That is one complication; I can get frozen cod fillets, but not salt cod. Cry

Ron I'll be happy to hook you up with some salt cod....we have a ton of it around here due to a very high percentage of Portugeuse population. Salt cod is a traditional Christmas meal for many of them and I have a market right down the street.  
 
G'morning, my friend ~
 
Your offer is HUGELY appreciated, and I may take you up on it so that I can prepare one or two of these wonderful cod dishes that Margi's been posting. But WOW ~ 9$/pound? Yikes! Confused That's a big expense and I must admit I am reluctant to ask that of you. Amazing that salt cod, wihc used to be such a common, basically mass-produced "staple" of culinary culture throughout much of Europe (for rich and poor alike) is now so expensive! Shocked
 
Pil pil is defintiely one I've been wanting to try, as I am fascinated by the look of it with the white "gel" that forms in cooking. That, along with its rich Basque tradition, really gets me to wondering what it would be like to try this dish, and it seems like a perfect winter meal.
 
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Margi Cintrano Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 December 2012 at 08:52
Tas,
 
It is interesting that fresh cod in Madrid is 9 Euros a kilo; and salt cod can run from 13 Euros a kilo all the way up to 28 Euros a kilo !  It is pricey; however, prices go down just before Cuaresma, which is Lent in English. The elderly village & small town people still do follow the original Catholic dietary regulations.
 
Bacalao Pil Pil is quite an elegant dish, and it is one that the Basques have a tremendous amount of pride in, and their are restaurants in San Sebastián and Bilbao which just prepare Bacalao Pil Pil !!!
 
Kindest regards,
Margi.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TasunkaWitko Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 January 2013 at 12:13
margi -
 
it looks like i do indeed have some salt cod heading toward montana (thanks a million, dave, my friend!Beer), and i would like to make this dish in as traditional and "rustic" manner possible, since bacalao al pil pil is something i've been enchanted by since the first time i saw it.
 
which of the above recipes would you say is more traditional or quintessential for achieving that goal, or do you have another that you would recommend? i am looking for a recipe that would be found in a cottage in some sleepycoastal town, not in a fancy restaurant in the city! Wink
 
is there anything i should know about preparing this dish?
 
let me know, and thanks for pointing me in the right direction with a traditional recipe -
 
ron
 
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Margi Cintrano Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 January 2013 at 12:26
Tas.
 
This is phenomenal.  
 
Firstly, before you use the salt cod, soak 48 hrs. and change water three times.  
 
How many kilos ?
 
Could u possibly prepare two meals on different nites ?       
 
Let me read renowned Chef Karlos Arguinano´s recipe book ...  as he is Basque and I'll report back.
 
All my kindest.
Margi. 
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sounds good, margi - i do appreciate your looking into it.  i want the unique character of bacalao al pil pil to be the star, and it sounds like the way to achieve that is simply with garlic, olive oil, a dried chile  and perhaps a little parsley.
 
my goal is rustic, traditional and basic as can be - true basque eating for a grey winter's day. there are many times when less is more, and i suspect that this is another of those times! Smile
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Margi Cintrano Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 January 2013 at 12:56
Tas, Good Morning,
 
XIX Century .. in the mid 1800s a Bilbao based writer Emiliano De Arriaga called it Pir Pir O Pin Pin ...
 
I sent you a link to Karlos Arguinano´s Recipe for Bacalao al Pil Pil ...
 
U shall see HOW a Basque Expert Does It.
 
 
Kindest,
Margi.
 
 
 
 
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TasunkaWitko Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 January 2013 at 09:21
hi, margi -
 
i'm really loving karlos's recipe:
 
 
and i do believe that's the one i will try -
 
working on the translation now (sent you a PM about a few key words and phrases), and will go from there. 
 
here's a video from karlos (in two parts), describing the preparation very well!
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Margi Cintrano Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 January 2013 at 09:33
Tas,
 
THE ONLY COMPLICATION WITH THIS TRADITIONAL BASQUE RECIPE IS THE EVOO SAUCE ...
 
SEE THE VIDEO FOR THE METHOD:
 
KINDEST, MARGI.
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TasunkaWitko Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 January 2013 at 10:43
I got home from work last night and was elated to see that the salt cod sent by Dave had arrived - thank you, my friend! Bacalao al pil pil is officially on the to-do list, hopefully in time for Lent!
 
I will post a link here when I complete the pictorial, and anyone interested can take a look at it then; for now, I want to thank Dave for his thoughtfulness and generosity - I think this is just what the doctor ordered!
 
Many thanks, my friend ~ I hope to do justice to your gift ~
 
And many thanks to Margi, as well, for pointing me toward a traditional Basque preparation for this dish so that I am able to learn from a true master, Karlos Arguiñano! 
 
Ron
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Margi Cintrano Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 January 2013 at 10:54

Ron,

I am only too glad to be of assistance in Iberian projects ... I have lived here a very long time ... and know the Chefs 1st hand; so, I am pleased I have been part of this.
 
I know, with the right research, videos, cazuelas ( earthenware ) and ingredients - which are very few for this recipe; you shall turn out a WONDERFUL BAKAILAO ...
 
The Basque Language is called EUSKERA, pronounced U SKE RA ...
 
 
All my best,
Margi
 
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TasunkaWitko Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 January 2013 at 12:36
some more background and other information, for my resaearch:
 
 
That should be enough research - just need to read it now ~
 
My goal is to provide backgrund information, history, a little about the process and a traditional, rustic, no-frills recipe. Karlos's looks to fit the bill perfect for a recipe, so all that is left is some research -
 
And, of course, actually making it correctly the first time! Wink
 
Thanks for your help, Margi
 
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